DIY Spacer Increases FDM Flow Rate For Faster, Better Printing

The host of problems to deal with when you’re feeling the need for FDM speed are many and varied, but high on the list is figuring out how to melt filament fast enough to accommodate high flow rates. Plus, the filament must be melted completely; a melty outside and a crunchy inside might be good for snacks, but not for 3D printing. Luckily, budget-minded hobbyists can build a drop-in booster to increase volumetric flow using only basic tools and materials.

[aamott]’s booster, which started life as a copper screw, is designed to replace the standard spacer in an extruder, with a bore that narrows as the filament gets closer to the nozzle to ensure that the core of the filament melts completely. Rather than a lathe, [aamott]’s main tool is a drill press, which he used to drill a 0.7 mm bore through the screw using a PCB drill bit. The hole was reamed out with a 10° CNC engraving bit, generating the required taper. After cutting off the head of the screw and cleaning up the faces, he cut radial slots into the body of the booster by threading the blade of a jeweler’s saw into the bore. The result was a bore wide enough to accept the filament on one end, narrowing to a (roughly) cross-shaped profile at the other.

Stacked up with a couple of knock-off Bondtech CHT nozzles, the effect of the booster was impressive — a 50% increase in flow rate. It’s not bad for a prototype made with simple tools, and it looks a little easier to build than [Stefan]’s take on the same idea.

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Making SD Cards More Nostalgic With More Cartridge-ness

As practical SD cards are, they lack much of what made floppy disks and cartridges so awesome: room for art and a list of contents, as well as the ability to not be lost in shaggy carpet or down a pet’s gullet. In a fit of righteous nostalgia, [Abe] decided that he’d turn SD cards into cartridges in the best way possible, and amazingly managed to not only finish the project after two years, but also make it look snazzy enough to have come straight out of the 1980s. The resulting cartridges come both with fixed (256 MB) and removable micro SD card storage, which are mounted on a PCB that passively connects to pogo pins in the custom, 3D printed reader.

Front of an SD-card-turned-cartridge with adn without decal. (Credit: Abe's Projects, YouTube)
Front of an SD-card-turned-cartridge with and without decal. (Credit: Abe’s Projects, YouTube)

The inspiration for this project kicked in while [Abe] was working on a floppy drive conversion project called the Floppy8, which crammed an MCU into an external floppy drive along with a rough version of these SD card-based cartridges that used the physical card’s edge connector to connect with a micro SD slot inside the converted floppy drive. The problem with this setup was that alignment was terrible, and micro SD cards would break, along with a range of other quality of life issues.

Next, the SD card was put into a slot on the carrier PCB that featured its own edge connector. This improved matters, but the overly complicated (moving) read head in the reader turned out to be very unreliable, in addition to FDM printed parts having general tolerance and durability issues. Eventually a simplified design which takes these limitations in mind was created that so far seems to work just fine.

Although SD cards in cartridges are not a new idea, using them purely as a data carrier is far less common. One could argue about the practicality of turning a fingernail-sized micro SD card into something much larger, but in terms of aesthetics and handleability it definitely gets an A+.

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You Can Use A CRT As An Audio Amplifier Tube

When we talk about audio amplifier tubes, we’re normally talking about the glass little blobby things you might find in a guitar amplifier. We’re not normally talking about big ol’ color CRTs, but apparently they can do the job too. That’s what [Termadnator] is here to show us.

The CRT in question is a 14″ unit from a common garden variety Philips color TV.  [Termadnator] pulled out the TV’s original circuitry, and replaced much of it with his own. He had to whip up a high-voltage power supply with a 555 and a laptop power supply, along with a bunch of fake MOSFETs pressed into service. He also had to build his own Leyden jar capacitor, too. The specifics of converting it to audio operation get a bit messy, but fear not—[Termadnator] explains the idea well, and also supplies a schematic. Perhaps the coolest thing, though, is the crazy color pattern that appears on the display when it’s working as an amp.

Sound output isn’t exactly loud, and it’s a little distorted, too. Still, it’s amusing to see an entire TV instead doing the job of a single amplifier tube. Video after the break.

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Why The 555 Is Not A Timer, But Can Be One

Although commonly referred to as a ‘timer IC’, the venerable NE555 and derivatives are in fact not timer ICs. This perhaps controversial statement is the open door that gets kicked in by [PKAE Electronics] over at YouTube, as he explains with excellent diagrams and simulations how exactly these ICs work, and what it takes to make it actually do timer things. For anyone who has ever used one of these chips there is probably nothing too mind-blowing, but it’s an infinitely better way to wrap your way around an NE555 and kin than a datasheet.

At its core, the 555 contains three 5 kOhm resistors as a voltage divider, which has been incorrectly postulated to be the source of the chip’s name. This voltage divider controls two comparators, which in turn control an SR flipflop. These comparators are used for the voltage trigger and threshold inputs, which in turn toggle the flipflop, respectively setting and resetting it. This by itself just means that the 555 can be used as a threshold detector, with settable control voltage. How a 555 becomes a timer is when the discharge, trigger and threshold pins are combined with external resistors and a capacitor, which creates a smooth square wave on the 555’s output pin.

There are many ways to make basic components into an oscillator of some type, but the 555 is a great choice when you want something more refined that doesn’t involve using an entire MCU. That said, there’s far more that the 555 can be used for, as [PKAE] alludes to, and we hope that he makes more excellent videos on these applications.

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Build Your Own Hydroelectric Dam

We have to admit that we often think about building unusual things, but we hadn’t really considered building our own hydroelectric dam before. [Mini Construction] did, apparently, and there’s a timelapse of the build in the video below.

We wished this was more of a how-to video, although if you are handy with brickwork, the mechanical construction seems straightforward. Presumably, you’d need to understand how much force the water had but we don’t know if there was math involved or just seat-of-the-pants design.

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Newly Completed Overly-Complex Clock Synchronizes Multiple Mechanisms

Some time ago [Kelton] was working on a clock inspired by Rube Goldberg contraptions. It uses only a single motor, and he’s proud to now show off the finished product (video, embedded below.)

The clock shows hours on the left, and minutes on the right. Every sixty minutes the clock drops a marble. That marble kicks off a series of visually-satisfying operations that culminate in advancing the hour. Then everything resets, and it continues for as long as it has power.

The hour oscillates in a very satisfying manner as it locks in.

At the top of each hour, the minute hand tips a marble with a gravity cam. That marble runs down a track gaining enough momentum to flip a kicker, and a short series of falling dominoes builds enough force to tip and trigger the spring-loaded ratchet that locks in a new hour. You can skip directly to 2:09 if you just want to listen to [Kelton] explain the whole operation from beginning to end.

We think it’s very interesting to note that this clock’s complexity is, if anything, understated. Each of the mechanisms involved must individually reset by their own separate mechanisms, each of which are as intriguing as their showier counterparts, and we’re sure they were every bit as difficult to get just right. And of course, it’s all driven by a single motor.

You may recall the promising start this clock project was off to and we’re delighted to see it come to completion, especially considering its complexity. Not every project sees completion, and fewer still get a version two, but that’s okay. What really floats our boat is seeing the process and details as well as hearing about what worked and what didn’t. We’re glad this clock reached the finish line, but even if something doesn’t work out, there’s always something to learn.

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A business card-sized synthesizer with capacitive touch pads.

2024 Business Card Challenge: The Gift Of Music

Has anyone ever told you that you just can’t carry a tune? If you were to be the lucky recipient of one of [Ayu]’s synthesizer business cards, well, then it really couldn’t be helped.

This tiny, go-anywhere instrument has quite a lot going for it. It’s easy for anyone to pick up and play something, but versatile enough that a more experienced musician can add complexity. While we do tend to see twelve keys in a small form-factor like this, the Canta-Cart uses them a bit differently. Only ten are tied to notes, and the other two are for transposition.

[Ayu] was able to keep the BOM cost way down by using the PY32, which is an ARM Cortex-M microcontroller made by Puya that costs as little as 10¢ each. In fact, the whole BOM clocks in around 60¢ total even with the audio DAC and amplifier ICs, which really makes these ideal to actually give away to people. Check it out in action after the break, or try it in the browser!

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