Madness Or Genius? FDM Printing With Resin

We aren’t sure what made him think of it, but [Proper Printing] decided to make an FDM printer lay down resin instead of filament. Why? We still aren’t sure, but we admire the effort nonetheless. In principle, extruding resin shouldn’t be much different than other liquid things you print like icing or concrete. Then you’d need to UV-cure the viscous liquid quickly. In fact, they wound up making up a paste-like resin using several chemicals and a filler.

Armed with the paste, it would seem like the big obstacles would be over. Instead of part cooling fans, the printer now has two laser heads focused on the print area. Printing in vase mode avoids some problems, but the first few attempts were not very successful.

With a bit of perseverance, the setup did work — for a while. More fine tuning got acceptable results. However, he eventually changed the filler material and got a passable Benchy to print. Nothing to be proud of, but recognizable. Honestly, we were surprised that the laser’s didn’t cure the material still inside the nozzle and cause terrible clogs.

Why put this much effort into doing this? We have no idea. Should you try it? Probably not. Of course, being able to print a paste has its own value. Perhaps delivering glue or solder paste, for example. But you generally won’t need to make tall prints with that kind of material. Then again, we’ve never been opposed to doing something “just because.”

After all, why make a musical instrument out of a Game Boy? Why make a modem with tin cans? You might as well extrude resin.

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Better Sheet Metal Parts With Chemistry

[Applied Science] wanted to make some metal parts with a lot of holes. A service provider charged high tooling costs, so he decided to create his own parts using photochemical machining. The process is a lot like creating PC boards, but, of course, there are some differences. You can see the video of the results, below.

Some of the parts could be made in different ways like water jet cutting or even stamping. However, some things — like custom screens — are only really feasible to do with a chemical process like this.

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3D Printer Z Sensor Claims 0.01 Mm Resolution

Early 3D printers usually had a microswitch that let you know when the Z axis was at the zero point. There was usually an adjustment screw so you could tune for just the right layer height. But these days, you most often see some sort of sensor. There are inductive sensors that work with a metal bed and a few other styles, as well. However, the most common is the “BL touch” style sensor that drops a probe below the nozzle level, measures, and then retracts the probe. However, nearly all of these sensors work by detecting a certain height over the bed and that’s it.

A new probe called BDsensor is inductive but can read the height over the bed in real time. According to information from the developer, it achieves a resolution of 0.01 mm and a repeatability of +/- 0.005mm. We don’t know if that’s true or not, but being able to take real-time soundings of the nozzle height leads to some interesting possibilities such as real-time adjustments of Z height, as seen in the video below.

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3D Printer Repurposed For Light-Duty Lab Automation Tasks

Laboratory automation equipment is expensive stuff, to such a degree that small labs are often priced out of the market. That’s a shame, because there are a lot of tedious manual tasks that even modest labs would benefit from automating. Oh well — that’s what grad students are for.

But it actually isn’t that hard to bring a little automation to the lab, if you follow the lead of [Marco], [Chinna], and [Vittorio] and turn a 3D printer into a simple lab robot. That’s what HistoEnder is — a bog-standard Creality Ender 3 with a couple of special modifications that turn it into a tool for automating histology slide preparation. Histology is the study of the anatomy of tissues and uses various fixing and staining techniques to make microscopic features visible. In practice, this means moving baskets of glass slides back and forth between jars of different solutions, a job that’s perfect for a simple Cartesian gantry lab robot with a small work envelope and light loads.

None of the printer modifications are permanent; the 3D printed accessories — a hook for the slide basket and a carrier for standard histology staining jars — can quickly come off the printer to return it to its regular duty. All it takes to run HistoEnder is a bit of custom G-code and some careful alignment of the jar carrier on the print bed. We suppose the bed heater could even be used to warm up the fixing and staining solutions. There’s a brief video of HistoEnder in action embedded in the tweet below.

This isn’t the first time this team has repurposed technology for the lab — remember the fitness band that was turned into an optical densitometer?

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Oh Snap! 3D Printing Snapping Parts Without Breakage

One of the great things about plastic is that it can be relatively flexible. We see things all the time that snap together, but when 3D printing, you don’t often run into snap fit designs. [Engineers Grow] has a video to help you design snap fittings that don’t break.

In the first video that you can see below, he covers three parameters that can help. The first is the length of the snap element. Secondly, the undercut size can be reduced. You can also try making the snap; as thin as possible, although in the example he went too thin and wound up breaking the snap anyway.

The final suggestion, covered in detail in the second video below, is to change the material you use. The key parameter is known as elongation at break. For PLA the typical value for this is 8%. ABS is 10%, PETG is 24% and Nylon is 100%. Simplistically, you could assume that a PETG piece could deform up to 25% before breaking. That may be true, but it will permanently deform long before that. The video suggests using 10 or 15% of the value to assure the part doesn’t lose its shape.

In the third video, you’ll learn, too, that print orientation counts. Making the hooks grow off the build plate leads to a weak hook as you might expect.

We’ve looked at the mechanics behind these before. You can find a lot of detailed technical data about joints, too.

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Upgrading A Line Trimmer With 3D Printed Parts

Many have complained about the hassle of rewinding their weed whackers with fresh trimmer line. Manufacturers responded by making models with solid plastic blades instead. Some of these suck, though, like this Ozito model belonging to [Random Sequence]. 3D printing was the way forward, adapting the blade trimmer to use traditional line.

The design is simple. [Random Sequence] created a small plastic tab which matches the attachment tab of the Ozito trimmer’s plastic blades. On the end of the tab, in lieu of a blade is a round slot into which a length of trimmer line can be inserted. The trick is to use a cigarette lighter to slightly melt a bulb onto a length of trimmer line so that it doesn’t pull through the slot. Centrifugal force (argue about it in the comments) keeps the line from falling out.

[Random Sequence] prints them in PETG, but notes that the part could benefit from additional strength. They do break when hitting tough objects, much like the stock trimmer blades do. Also, unlike a bump-feed trimmer head, there’s no way to auto-feed more line. Instead, one must simply assemble more of the tab-adapters with fresh line manually.

Overall, though, it’s a great way to fit stronger, more capable trimmer line to a weed whacker otherwise hamstrung by weak blades. It’s reported to work with Ozito and potentially Bosch tirmmers, and parts are on Thingiverse for those wishing to print their own.

Just as string trimmer line was once used as 3D printing filament, you can also go the other way, turning old plastic bottles into trimmer line. If you’ve whipped up your own fun hacks for tools in the garden, don’t hesitate to let us know.

Sound off with your best name for a weed whacker in the comments, too. The Australians may hold the title with “whipper snipper,” but we’re open to other submissions!

An M1 Mac mini sits next to a white Wii on a wooden table. In the background are various Edison-style LED light fixtures with an incadescent-like light profile.

This Wii Has An Apple M1 Inside

The conveniently tiny logic board of the M1 Mac mini has lead to it giving the Mini ITX format a run for its money in case mods. The latest example of this is [Luke Miani]’s M1 Wii. (Youtube via 9to5Mac)

[Miani] chose the Wii as a new enclosure for this Mac mini given its similar form factor and the convenient set of doors in the top to maintain access to the computer’s I/O, something he wasn’t able to do with one of his previous M1 casemods. The completed build is a great stealth way to have a Mac mini in your entertainment center. [Miani] even spends the last several minutes of the video showing the M1 Wii running Wii, GameCube, and PS2 games to really bring it full circle.

A Microsoft Surface power brick was spliced into the original Wii power cable since the Wii PSU didn’t have enough wattage to supply the Mac mini without significant throttling. On the inside, the power runs through a buck converter before making its way to the logic board. While the Mini’s original fan was too big to fit inside the Wii enclosure, a small 12V fan was able to keep performance similar to OEM and much higher than running the M1 fanless without a heat spreader.

If you’d like to see some more M1 casemods, check out this Lampshade iMac or the Mac Mini Mini.

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