[joevennix]’s digital picture frame for Mother’s day is really an update to a previous how-to he wrote. The original shows you how to build a digital photo frame using a Juicebox media player. His version doesn’t require the MP3 addon (it would make it easier) since he connects the SD card directly to the header. His latest features a much better case and hideaway controls. He admits that he still can’t cut a matte worth a darn.
So, you’ve got an itching desire to inflate 150 helium balloons, but have no idea what to do with them afterwards? Well, readers Stefan and Michel decided to build a simple aluminum frame to mount a cheap digital camera and do some aerial photography. Instead of building a complex timing system they just attached a strong motor from a security camera. It’s powered by a AA and is geared really low so it only triggers the shutter every 12 seconds. They deployed the rig from the fortifications surrounding Wilemstad in the Netherlands. There are several pictures of the city (and the occasional envious child) on their site. If you follow the “continue reading” link you’ll see a couple more pictures of the camera mount.
The Holga is a cheap medium format film camera that has achieved cult status for its inconsistent, truly unique photographs featuring blur, light leaks, vignetting, and distortion. Poor quality digital photos aren’t nearly as interesting and [Joachim Guanzon] wanted to achieve the Holga effect without using robotic Photoshop filters. He constructed this lens for his Canon 20D. The base is an EOS body cap with the center drilled out. A tube is constructed from a white film canister and the Holga lens is mounted inside. The tube length increases the usable distance of the camera and the white body lets some light leak in. A lens cap with a 3/16th inch hole is snapped over the top. The hole creates a vignette and since it isn’t permanently attached the pattern will be more random. Check out Joachim’s sample photos.
I know the camera pictured looks kind of wonky, “They just glued a peephole to a digicam, right?” The fisheye camera guide from Aggregate.org goes much further than that. They’ve tried out the $4 peephole lens on almost every camera in the office and have built dedicated ones using $15 pen cameras. I don’t plan on building one of these, but I did find their guide for removing “dark noise” from images really interesting. Sensor noise can be fairly consistent from shot to shot. So with some smart subtraction of a black frame from an image you can remove noise without blurring the image. They have information on masking and projection conversion as well.
[Jan-Erik Skata] recently had to perform surgery on his Canon 300D since the secondary mirror would not raise up (and if manually locked wouldn’t autofocus). His repair guide is good; you may remember his focus screen replacement. The thing I found really interesting was the site he referenced for his disassembly: Gary Honis’s Canon Digital Rebel (300D) Modification. Gary removes the IR cut glass from inside the camera and replaces it with a piece of clear glass. He then shows how to setup color correction and confirm that autofocus is still working correctly. He’s even got a mockup for how to add peltier cooling to the CMOS chip.
Continue reading “Canon 300D Mod For Astrophotography And IR Imaging”
[MM] has built a simple lighting adapter for analyzing skin lesions. Different layers of the skin absorb different parts of the light spectrum. By shining those particular wave lengths on the skin you can get an image of the lesion in various layers. This camera adapter is designed for a Nikon Coolpix E3100 digital camera. The ring of LEDs contains blue, green, red, and IR. White is included as well for taking normal pictures. A polarized filter is used to cut down on light reflections from the skin surface. The device does have some calibration issues since it was soldered by hand, but the preliminary results look very promising.
[Greg Lipscomb] was working on this disposable camera based slave flash when he stumbled into his macro photography project. Slave flashes are used as fill lighting and can be triggered by several different methods. Greg’s project uses a photocell and a microcontroller for trigger and timing. It also makes sure the flash stays charged. He concedes that this design is a bit complicated, but he went with it because he didn’t have any silicon controlled rectifiers available. The microcontroller would be too slow, but his Canon 10D uses a pre-flash before the actual photo, so the slave has a built in delay from that first flash.
