Ergonomic Mouse Gives Each Fingertip Its Own Saddle

June 15, 2026 by Donald Papp 5 Comments

Want to make your own ergonomic mouse but don’t know where to start? Why not try [psudoku]’s Kotinos design?

It’s a scaffold-like fingertip shell that uses the internals of an HSK Pro mouse. Each fingertip gets its own little saddle-shaped nook, and things like hand size and paddle surface can all be configured by modifying the OpenSCAD scripts.

[psudoku]’s unit looks to us as though it was maybe made using multi-jet fusion (MJF) 3D printing, but it should be perfectly printable on hobbyist printers, whether resin- or filament-based.

Comfort of the contact surfaces is left up to the end user, but if your print lacks smoothness and sanding isn’t your jam, you might consider a layer of fabric tape to create a velvet-like surface on a 3D print. That’s a trick we’ve kept in mind ever since seeing it put to good use, cushioning the hardware in a DIY steam deck case.

Is the minimalist scaffold approach to a mouse not your style, or does your hand crave something less lightweight but a little more personalized? You might want to craft a truly custom-fitted mouse, for which clay is the way.

Downloadable Xbox Thumbstick Toppers Give Gamers Accessibility Options

June 15, 2026 by Donald Papp No comments

Microsoft has a history of taking accessibility options seriously for gaming controllers, and that trend continues with downloadable thumbstick toppers for Xbox controllers. Being straight from the source, the 3D models should fit as well as can be expected with a minimum of fiddling. Just make sure you select the right controller model, because they are each subtly different.

The toppers themselves come in different styles, and there’s a design to fit a variety of needs, from a thumb cradle to ones intended for more serious adaptations — the perforated X-shaped topper, for instance, is meant to anchor a custom shape molded overtop it.

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Adding Weight To A 3D Print With Plaster Of Paris, Cleanly

June 12, 2026 by Donald Papp 15 Comments

Sometimes it’s useful to add extra mass to a 3D print, and [Joe Fedewa] shared a simple and effective technique that uses plaster of Paris. Rather than pause the print and insert hardware or weighted bits inside, he designed the base as hollow. Not in the sense of zero infill, but in the sense of modeling a cavity into the open bottom of the object.

An open cavity in the base is perfect for filling with plaster of Paris.

After the print is complete, he mixes the dry plaster with water until it creates a thick but pourable mixture. Then the object gets turned upside-down and the cavity filled. In about an hour, it will have set up enough to be handled and worked.

Plaster of Paris has a good heft to it, but more importantly it can be made perfectly presentable thanks to being very friendly to post-processing. Any rough spots can be easily sanded and the whole bottom smoothed, so one doesn’t even need to cap it off. Completely cured plaster can be sealed with a clear coat for a more durable finish, if desired.

This basic concept has been used in other ways, such as reinforcing prints with concrete to yield parts solid enough to make tools out of. But using plaster of Paris not just to add mass, but specifically to create a presentable surface that doesn’t need covering up is a neat and highly economical adaptation of the idea.

Other methods of adding mass to a 3D print include inserting metal balls or chunky nuts, bolts, or other hardware, but this method doesn’t require pausing prints to insert things. Nor does it require sealing off or capping the print, messing with goopy epoxies or resins, or spending a lot of money — making it a good one to keep in mind in case it comes in handy someday.

Glue-in Hinge Design Tries Something Different

June 12, 2026 by Donald Papp 17 Comments

Need a hinge in your 3D printed design and would prefer not to re-invent the wheel? You may find [Alex Krush]’s glue-in filament hinge useful.

This design (shown in this simple box as an example) makes a very close-fitting hinge point.

This design prints half the hinge as a separate piece — the u-shaped one in the picture to the side — that must be glued into the target object after printing. It’s a bit of extra work, but doing it this way has a couple advantages.

One is that printing some of the hinge elements separately means one no longer needs to choose between a print orientation that best suits the object, and a print orientation that works best for the hinge. Also, the length of 1.75 mm filament used as a hinge pin is held captive after assembly so there’s no need to glue the hinge pin itself.

[Alex] helpfully provides the parts in STEP format, which makes CAD tweaks and adjustments easy. While incorporating the design should be doable even if one is just using .stl or .3mf files because boolean subtraction and merging is all that’s needed, having the model in STEP format is so much better.

Should you need some pointers on incorporating either into FreeCAD, we have you covered.

A small, orange 3D printer is shown on a desk with a filament dry box. The printer is printing a waving cat figurine. The printer is a CoreXY configuration, and the side panels are 3D-printed orange plastic.

3D Printing A Miniature CoreXY Printer

June 6, 2026 by Aaron Beckendorf 7 Comments

Although no longer so common as during the heyday of the RepRap movement, it’s easier than ever to build your own largely-printed 3D printer, with designs such as Voron’s delivering excellent quality. Nevertheless, there are still niches to be filled by new designs, such as [Alex Yu]’s mostly-printed Encore design.

The Encore uses CoreXY kinematics and linear rails for the X and Y axes. Its has no internal frame; the linear rails are mounted directly to the side panels, which were printed but provided sufficient rigidity. The printer is modular, and all the parts are designed to fit within a 225 mm print bed. The Encore itself uses a 120 mm bed, a Bowden extruder, and a lightweight Bambu-style hotend. The drive motors are NEMA 17 stepper motors, and they use sliding mounts for belt tensioning. The power supply sits behind the rods supporting the Z axis, and the controller board is in the base of the printer.

Building the printer was simple; tuning it, less so. The combination of a Bambu-type hotend with a Bowden extruder created some complications, and the hotend initially received too little cooling. [Alex] solved the cooling issues by using a stronger fan on the hotend, redesigning the ventilation shroud, and adding two inward-blowing fans along the sides of the build volume. After correcting some issues with Z-axis stability, the Encore produced some quite good-looking parts. [Alex] is still improving and documenting some aspects of the printer, but he’s uploaded his progress so far to GitHub.

We’ve seen some mostly-printed printers before, including a high-speed printer, one which printed all structural components, and one which was entirely 3D printed.

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Like A Wire Bender, But For Pop Tubes

June 1, 2026 by Donald Papp 13 Comments

Are you familiar with pop tubes? Resembling the corrugated section of a bendy straw, they are at the core of PopTuber, an intriguing research project from the Actuated Experience Lab at the University of Chicago.

With five motors and specialized gears a pop tube can be formed into complex, arbitrary shapes, and just as easily reset.

PopTuber shows how five motors and some specialized gears are all it takes to bend pop tubes into complex and stable 3D shapes. One can design the shapes in software, feed a pop tube into the shaper, and watch the device do the work. Importantly, the device can just as easily reset and re-use the tube. Watch the video (embedded below the page break) to see it in action and get a feel for what it can do.

In concept, it’s a little like a wire-bending machine, although wire benders are bulkier in comparison, more complex to scale, and unbending a wire is a separate process with its own hardware.

This project explores possibilities for a machine that can crank out complex curves on demand, such as oddball user interfaces, physical prototyping, and even a strange sort of physical display. But the real forward-thinking and interesting question researchers asked is whether this idea could be a form of programmable matter. The project shows that five actuators in a relatively compact package are all that’s needed to shape (and reset) a pop tube of arbitrary length in a programmable way, and it can scale easily to different sizes.

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3D Printing Space Cadet Pinball Into The Real World

May 25, 2026 by Tyler August 11 Comments

Unless you’ve managed to avoid touching a Windows computer until after the Windows XP era, it’s pretty good odds you’ve played Space Cadet Pinball. Some of you may have even paid for the Mac port of Full Tilt! Pinball, the actual game the Windows freebee was supposed to demo. Unofficial ports exist for Linux as well, which means the one place nobody has ever played the game is, ironically, on a pinball table. [CNCDan]aims to change that in a video embedded below.

Ironically given [CNCDan]’s name, the parts he starts with — the two sorts of pop bumpers, the drop targets, slingshots, and delayed-drop hole– are all largely 3D-printed. While some of these parts are available commercially, it turns out that the scaling of the virtual pinball machine doesn’t match anything on offer, and rather than compromise [CNCDan] decided to do it himself, an attitude we absolutely respect.

All that’s left are the flippers– his first prototype wasn’t powerful enough–and a couple minor mechanisms before building the table. To do that, he’ll need high-resolution art worth printing. Not surprisingly, a game dating from 1995 doesn’t have high resolution assets available with which to do that. That kind of creativity isn’t in [CNCDan]’s wheelhouse, so if it is in yours and you want to collaborate, or know someone who does, you can reach [CNCDan] at his YouTube page. At the very least, he can pay you in playtime.

[CNCDan] often goes beyond his namesake, like with his SteamDeck-like handheld, or his 3D printed VR headset. Still, no guesses how he’s going to build the cabinet.

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