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Hackaday Links: January 19, 2025

This week, we witnessed a couple of space oopsies as both Starship and New Glenn suffered in-flight mishaps on the same day. SpaceX’s Starship was the more spectacular, with the upper stage of the seventh test flight of the full stack experiencing a “rapid unscheduled disassembly” thanks to a fire developing in the aft section of the stage somewhere over the Turks and Caicos islands, about eight and a half minutes after takeoff from Boca Chica. The good news is that the RUD happened after first-stage separation, and that the Super Heavy booster was not only able to safely return to the pad but also made another successful “chopsticks” landing on the tower. Sorry, that’s just never going to get old.

On the Bezos side of the billionaire rocket club, the maiden flight of Blue Origin’s New Glenn ended with the opposite problem. The upper stage reached orbit, but the reusable booster didn’t make it back to the landing barge parked off the Bahamas. What exactly happened isn’t clear yet, but judging by the telemetry the booster was coming in mighty fast, which may indicate that the engines didn’t restart fully and the thing just broke up when it got into the denser part of the atmosphere.

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Motorized Coil Tunes Your Ham Antenna On A Budget

When it comes to amateur radio, one size definitely does not fit all. That’s especially true with antennas, which need to be just the right size for the band you’re working, lest Very Bad Things happen to your expensive radio. That presents a problem for the ham who wants the option to work whichever band is active, and doubly so if portable operation is desired.

Of course, there are commercial solutions to this problem, but they tend to be expensive. Luckily [Øystein (LB8IJ)] seems to have found a way around that with this low-cost homebrew motorized antenna coil, which is compatible with the Yaesu Automatic Tuning Antenna System. ATAS is supported by several Yaesu transceivers, including the FT-891 which [Øystein] favors for field operations. ATAS sends signals up the feedline to a compatible antenna, which then moves a wiper along a coil to change the electrical length of the antenna, allowing it to resonate on the radio’s current frequency.

The video below details [Øystein]’s implementation of an ATAS-compatible tuning coil, mainly focusing on the mechanical and electrical aspects of the coil itself, which takes up most of the room inside a 50-mm diameter PVC tube. The bore of the air-core coil has a channel that guides a wiper, which moves along the length of the coil thanks to a motor-driven lead screw. [Øystein] put a lot of work into the wiper, to make it both mechanically and electrically robust. He also provides limit switches to make sure the mechanism isn’t over-driven.

There’s not much detail yet on how the control signals are detected, but a future video on that subject is promised. We’re looking forward to that, but in the meantime, the second video below shows [Øystein] using the tuner in the field, with great results.

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A Field Expedient Welder Only MacGyver Could Love

If you needed to weld something in a pinch, what’s the minimum complement of equipment you could get away with? In [Professor Bardal]’s case, it’s a couple of motorcycle batteries and a roll of flux-core wire, and not much else.

We suspect this one is going to elicit quite a few comments, not least by the welding fans who no doubt will be triggered by just about everything in the video below, especially by characterizing this as MIG welding; it’s FCAW, or flux-core arc welding. But it bears some superficial similarities to MIG, at least insofar as there’s a consumable wire electrode through which a high-current DC supply flows, creating enough heat to melt it and the base metal. In this case, the current is provided by a pair of 12-volt motorcycle batteries hooked together in series. There’s also a torch of sorts — a short length of copper capillary tubing with a 1-mm inside diameter clamped in the jaws of a stick welder stinger, or a pair of locking pliers if you’re really in a pinch. The torch is connected to the negative terminal on the battery with a jumper cable, and the positive terminal is connected to the workpiece.

To create the weld, a piece of 0.8-mm flux-core welding wire is threaded through the capillary and into the joint, and fed by hand as it’s consumed. It’s awkward and awful, but it works. Of course, there’s no control over amperage as there would be with a legit welding machine, which would make it hard to adapt this method to different materials. Weld quality appears poor, too. But we suspect that if you were in a position to need a welder like this, you wouldn’t really care about any of that.

Fabricobbled welding rigs seem to be [Professor Bardal]’s thing — witness this much more professional MIG welder, complete with a baking soda and vinegar shielding gas generator.

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Hackaday Podcast Episode 304: Glitching The RP2350, Sim Sim Sim, And A Scrunchie Clock

It’s podcast time again, and this week Dan sat down with Elliot for a look back at all the cool hacks we’ve written about. We started off talking about Hackaday Europe, which is coming up in March — seems unlikely that it’s just around the corner, but there it is. There’s also good news: the Hack Chat is back, and we started things off with a bang as Eben Upton stopped by to talk all things Pi. Separately, we talked about fault injection attacks, including how to find the hidden cup of  0xC0FFEE in an RP2350.

We saw a very cool piece of LED jewelry that does a fluid simulation, a direct conversion radio that’s all laid out in front of you, and the scrunchiest mechanical digital clock you’ll ever see. We saw blinkenlights for blinkenlights’ sake, all the ways to put threads in your prints, and how to ditch to coax and wire up your antennas with Cat 6 cable. Plus, it’s an Al Williams twofer in the Can’t-Miss Articles, with a look back at life before GPS and how you can tune into digital ham radio, no radio required.

Download the zero-calorie MP3.

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Simple Hardware Store Hack Keeps Your PCBs Right Where You Want Them

Sometimes it’s the simplest hacks that make the biggest impact.

Take these DIY magnetic PCB vises for example. Sure, you can go out and buy purpose-built tools, but [Dylan Radcliffe] just made a trip to the hardware store for some nuts and bolts. He chose 3/8″-16 bolts, which would probably be around M10 for the rest of the world. The head of each bolt is ground flat so a ceramic disc magnet can be attached to it with CA glue, while the head of the bolt gets a plastic washer glued to it. Another plastic washer gets glued to a nut, which when threaded onto the bolt provides the light clamping force needed to hold a PCB. Make four of those and stick them to a steel plate with the magnets, and you can stop chasing your boards around the bench with a soldering iron.

As much as we like this idea — and we do; we’re heading to Home Depot to buy the needed parts this very evening — we can think of a few useful modifications. With a long bolt and two nuts rather than one, you could make a set of vises that are easily adjustable along the Z-axis. This could prove useful to those of us working under a microscope. Also, rather than making the bolts the magnetic part we bet you could lay down a flexible magnetic sheet, the kind you can feed into a printer to roll your own fridge magnets. We suspect that would hold the bolts firmly enough for most work while still allowing easy repositioning. We’d also favor flange nuts over plain hex nuts, to give a larger clamping area. We’d still include the plastic washers, though, or possibly switch to rubber ones.

There’s more than one way to skin this cat, of course, especially if you’ve got a Harbor Freight nearby and a well-stocked Lego bin.

Forget The Coax, Wire Up Your Antennas With Cat 6 Cable

These days, anything with copper in it is expensive. If you doubt that, a walk into any Home Depot electrical department, where the wire is locked up tighter than Fort Knox, will prove otherwise. Coaxial cable is a particularly expensive species, which is a pity for hams and other radio enthusiasts since it’s the only thing we can use for antenna feedlines.

Or is it? [Steve (VE6WZ)] has found a way to use ordinary Cat 6 Ethernet cable for antenna feed lines that seems pretty clever. As he points out, Ethernet cables are designed to handle frequencies that coincide nicely with most of the interesting amateur radio bands, and their insertion losses are acceptably low, especially for Cat 6 cable. The twisted pairs are also a balanced system that’s good at rejecting common mode noise. Cat 6 cable also has four pairs of conductors, allowing you to feed multiple antennas with one cable, or to distribute power to amplifiers and switches along with antenna feeds.

The downside? Cat6 conductor pairs have a characteristic impedance of around 100 ohms, which isn’t a match for the 50-ohm feedline impedance universally expected by ham radios. Also, the relatively small wires probably aren’t up to the job of carrying much current, limiting their use to feedlines for receive-only antennas. That works for [Steve] since he uses Cat 6 to support his massive Beverage antenna farm (Beverage antennas are non-resonant horizontal antennas that live close to the ground and point in the direction of the signal, rather than broadside to the signal as with a resonant antenna like a dipole.) Each antenna in his farm has a transimpedance amplifier that needs to be powered, plus switching relays so he can turn the correct antennas on for the signals he wants to receive. He describes the amps in detail in the video below, along with the custom impedance-matching transformers he uses and the combining gear.

Coax will probably still be the cable of choice for most feedline applications, but it’s nice to know there are alternatives. And who knows—if you stick to QRP work, maybe Cat 6 could even be used for transmitting.

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Fluid Simulation Pendant Teaches Lessons In Miniaturization

Some projects seem to take on a life of their own. You get an idea, design and prototype it, finally build the thing and — it’s good, but it’s not quite right. Back to the drawing board, version 2, still not perfect, lather, rinse, repeat. Pretty soon you look around to discover that you’ve built ten of them. Oops.

That seems to be the arc followed by [mitxela] with this very cool fluid simulation pendant. The idea is simple enough; create a piece of jewelry with a matrix of tiny LEDs that act like the pendant is full of liquid, sloshing about with the slightest movement. In practice, though, this project was filled with challenges. Surprisingly, [mitxela] doesn’t seem to number getting a fluid dynamics simulation running on a microcontroller among those problems, at least not to a great degree. Rather, the LED matrix seemed to cause the most problems, both in terms of laying it out on the 25-mm diameter PCB and how to address the LEDs with relatively limited GPIO on the STM32 microcontroller. The solution to both was diagonal charlieplexing, which reduces the number of vias needed for the 216-LED matrix and allows the 0402 to be densely packed, along with providing some tolerance for solder bridging.

And then there’s the metalworking heroics, which no [mitxela] project would be complete without. This seems to be where a lot of the revisions come from, as the gold-plated brass case kept not quite living up to expectations. The final version is a brass cup containing the LiR2450 rechargeable battery, a magnetic charging connector, and the main PCB, all sealed by a watch crystal. The fluid simulation is quite realistic and very responsive to the pendant’s position. The video below shows it in action along with a summary of the build.

If you want to catch up on [mitxela]’s back catalog of miniaturized builds, start with his amazing industrial ear adornments or these tiny matrix earrings. We’re also fond of his incredible shrinking MIDI builds. Continue reading “Fluid Simulation Pendant Teaches Lessons In Miniaturization”