NASA Is Taking Suggestions For Raising Swift’s Orbit

August 31, 2025 by 43 Comments

Launched in 2004, the Neil Gehrels Swift Observatory – formerly the Swift Gamma-Ray Burst Explorer – has been dutifully studying gamma-ray bursts (GRBs) during its two-year mission, before moving on to a more general space observation role during its ongoing mission. Unfortunately, the observatory is in LEO, at an altitude of around 370 km. The natural orbital decay combined with increased solar activity now threatens to end Swift’s mission, unless NASA can find someone who can boost its orbit.

Using Swift as a testbed for commercial orbit-boosting technologies, NASA is working with a number of companies to investigate options. One of these is the SSPICY demonstration of in-orbit inspection technology by Starfish Space that’s part of an existing Phase III program.

Although currently no option has been selected and Swift is still at risk of re-entering Earth’s atmosphere within the near future, there seems to be at least a glimmer of hope that this process can be reverted, and a perfectly fine triple-telescope space observatory can keep doing science for many years to come. Along the way it may also provide a blueprint for how to do the same with other LEO assets that are at risk of meeting a fiery demise.

Two sides of a business-card shaped device are shown. On the left, it’s clear that the device is about half a centimeter thick, with a large scroll wheel visible in the center. The device cover is 3D-printed in black plastic, and has cutouts to mark where three buttons ar. On the right, the underside of the device is visible. It is a black PCB, with white text giving contact information.

Building A Macro Pad Into A Business Card

August 31, 2025 by 10 Comments

A business card is a convenient way to share your contact information, but it’s unfortunately prone to being thrown away or forgotten. PCB business cards try to get around this problem, but while impressive, most won’t keep the recipient engaged for a very long time. [Cole Olsen]’s macro pad business card, on the other hand, might actually get regular use.

The card has three buttons and a rotary encoder as controls, with an RGB LED to indicate the card’s current mode. It can perform three sets of functions: general productivity, serving as a presentation remote, and controlling music. The scroll wheel is the main control, and can switch through windows, desktops, and tabs, page through slides, and control music volume.

The card itself is made out of a PCB, the exposed side of which contains [Cole]’s contact information, and the other side of which is covered by a 3D-printed case. As thick as it is, this might be stretching the definition of “card” a bit, but as a mechanical engineer, [Cole] did want to demonstrate some mechanical design. A nice!nano wireless keyboard development board running ZMK firmware reads the sensors and sends commands. Conveniently for a presentation remote, the card is powered by a rechargeable battery and can work wirelessly (as a side benefit, if a recipient were minded to get rid of this card, the lithium-polymer battery would probably substantially delay disposal).

[Cole] writes that he was inspired by many of the other impressive business cards we’ve covered. Some of the macro pads we’ve seen have been marvels of miniaturization in their own right.

Watch Bondo Putty Get Sprayed Onto 3D Prints

August 31, 2025 by 18 Comments

3D prints destined for presentation need smooth surfaces, and that usually means sanding. [Uncle Jessy] came across an idea he decided to try out for himself: spraying Bondo spot putty onto a 3D print. Bondo spot putty comes from a tube, cures quickly, and sands smoothly. It’s commonly used to hide defects and give 3D prints a great finish. Could spraying liquified Bondo putty onto a 3D print save time, or act as a cheat code for hiding layer lines? [Uncle Jessy] decided to find out.

Gaps and larger flaws still need to be filled by hand, but spray application seems to be a big time saver if nothing else.

The first step is to turn the distinctive red putty into something that can be sprayed through a cheap, ten dollar airbrush. That part was as easy as squeezing putty into a cup and mixing in acetone in that-looks-about-right proportions. A little test spray showed everything working as expected, so [Uncle Jessy] used an iron man mask (smooth surfaces on the outside, textured inside) for a trial run.

Spraying the liquified Bondo putty looks about as easy as spraying paint. The distinctive red makes it easy to see coverage, and it cures very rapidly. It’s super easy to quickly give an object an even coating — even in textured and uneven spots — which is an advantage all on its own. To get a truly smooth surface one still needs to do some sanding, but the application itself looks super easy.

Is it worth doing? [Uncle Jessy] says it depends. First of all, aerosolizing Bondo requires attention to be paid to safety. There’s also a fair bit of setup involved (and a bit of mess) so it might not be worth the hassle for small pieces, but for larger objects it seems like a huge time saver. It certainly seems to cover layer lines nicely, but one is still left with a Bondo-coated object in the end that might require additional sanding, so it’s not necessarily a cheat code for a finished product.

If you think the procedure might be useful, check out the video (embedded below) for a walkthrough. Just remember to do it in a well-ventilated area and wear appropriate PPE.

An alternative to applying Bondo is brush application of UV resin, but we’ve also seen interesting results from non-planar ironing.

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This Soviet-Style Clock Uses Homemade Nixie Tubes And Glowing Logic

August 31, 2025 by 11 Comments

The Neon glow of a Nixie tube makes for an attractive clock, but that’s not enough neon for some people. [Changliang Li] is apparently one of those people, because he’s using soviet-era cold-cathode tubes as the logic for his “Soviet-Era Style Clock”

Aside from the nixies for display, the key component you see working in this beautiful machine are the MTX-90 cold cathode thyratrons, which look rather like neon tubes in action. That’s because they essentially are, just with an extra trigger electrode (that this circuit doesn’t use). The neon tubes are combined into a loop counter, which translates the 50 Hz mains circuit in to seconds, minutes, and hours. The circuit is not original to this project, and indeed was once common to electronics books. The version used in this project is credited to [PA3FWM].

The Nixie tubes are new-made by [Sadudu] of iNixie labs, and we get a fascinating look in how they are made. (Tubemaking starts at around 1:37 in the video below.) It looks like a fiber laser is used to cut out glow elements for the tube, which is then encapsulated on a device which appears to be based around a lathe.

The cold-cathode tubes used as logic rely on ambient light or background radiation to start reliably, since the trigger electrode is left floating. In order to ensure reliable switching from the thyratrons, [Changliang Li] includes a surplus smoke detector source to ensure sufficient ionization. (The video seems to imply the MTX-90 was seeded with radioisotopes that have since decayed, but we could find no evidence for this claim. Comment if you know more.)

The end result is attractive and rather hypnotic. (Jump to 3:37 to see the clock in action.) If you want to know more about this sort of use for neon lamps (and the Soviet MTX-90) we featured a deeper dive a while back.

Thanks to [Changliang Li] for the incandescent tip. If one of your bright ideas has had a glow up into a project, don’t hesitate to share it on our tips line.

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A photo of an RPi and a note about the first lecture.

The Latest Projects From Cornell’s ECE 4760/5730

August 30, 2025 by 13 Comments

ECE 4760/5730 is the Digital Systems Design Using Microcontrollers course at Cornell University taught by [Hunter Adams]. The list of projects for spring this year includes forty write-ups — if you haven’t got time to read the whole lot you can pick a random project between 1 and 40 with: shuf -i 1-40 -n 1 and let the cards fall where they may. Or if you’re made of time you could spend a few days watching the full playlist of 119 projects, embedded below.

We won’t pick favorites from this semester’s list of projects, but having skimmed through the forty reports we can tell you that the creativity and acumen of the students really shines through. If the name [Hunter Adams] looks familiar that might be because we’ve featured his work here on Hackaday before. Earlier this year we saw his Love Letter To Embedded Systems.

While on the subject, [Hunter] also wanted us to know that he has updated his lectures, which are here: Raspberry Pi Pico Lectures 2025. Particularly these have expanded to include a bunch of Pico W content (making Bluetooth servers, connecting to WiFi, UDP communication, etc.), and some fun lower-level stuff (the RP2040 boot sequence, how to write a bootloader), and some interesting algorithms (FFT’s, physics modeling, etc.).

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[Linus] playing his instrument

The Qweremin Is A QWERTY Theremin With A C-64 Heart

August 30, 2025 by 6 Comments

While we have nothing against other 1980s 8-bit machines, the Commodore 64 has always been something special. A case in point: another new instrument using the C-64 and its beloved SID chip. Not just new to retrocomputing, either, but new entirely. [Linus Åkesson] has invented the QWERTY Theremin, and there’s a Commodore at its core.

If this project sounds vaguely familiar, it’s because it’s based off of the C-64 Theremin [Linus] built a couple of years back. According to [Linus], there were a few issues with the instrument. A real thereminist told him there were issues with the volume response; his own experience taught him that theremins are very, very hard to play for the uninitiated.

This model fixes both problems: first, the volume circuit now includes a pair of digital-analog-converters (DACs) connected to the Commodore’s user port, allowing smooth and responsive volume control.In this case the DAC is being used solely for volume control: SID provides the analog reference voltage, while the 12-bit digital input served as volume control. That proved noisy, however, thanks to the DC bias voltage of the audio output being scaled by the DAC even when the SID was silent. A second DAC was the answer, providing a signal to cancel out the scaled bias voltage. That in and of itself is a clever hack.

The biggest change is that this instrument no longer plays like a theremin. Pitch has been taken out of the 555-based antenna circuit entirely; while vertical distance from the spoon-antenna still controls volume as in a regular theremin and the last version, the horizontal distance from the second antenna (still a clamp) now controls vibrato. Pitch is now controlled by the QWERTY keyboard. That’s a much easier arrangement for [Linus] — this isn’t his first chiptune QWERTY instrument, after all.

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Does It Make Sense To Upgrade A Prusa MK4S To A Core One?

August 30, 2025 by 7 Comments

One of the interesting things about Prusa’s FDM 3D printers is the availability of official upgrade kits, which allow you to combine bits off an older machine with those of the target machine to ideally save some money and not have an old machine gathering dust after the upgrade. While for a bedslinger-to-bedslinger upgrade this can make a lot of sense, the bedslinger to CoreXY Core One upgrade path is a bit more drastic. Recently the [Aurora Tech] channel had a look at which upgrade path makes the most sense, and in which scenario.

A big part of the comparison is the time and money spent compared to the print result, as you have effectively four options. Either you stick with the MK4S, get the DIY Core One (~8 hours of assembly time), get the pre-assembled Core One (more $$), or get the upgrade kit (also ~8 hours). There’s also the fifth option of getting the enclosure for the MK4S, but it costs about as much as the upgrade kit, so that doesn’t make a lot of logical sense.

In terms of print quality, it’s undeniable that the CoreXY motion system provides better results, with less ringing and better quality with tall prints, but unless you’re printing more than basic PLA and PETG, or care a lot about the faster print speeds of the CoreXY machine with large prints, the fully enclosed Core One is a bit overkill and sticking with the bedslinger may be the better choice.

The long and short of it is that you have look at each option and consider what works best for your needs and your wallet.

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