Embossing Graphics By 3D Printing On Wood

Embossing (making raised shapes) and debossing (making sunken shapes) on 3D-printed surfaces is not a new idea; we do it all the time. [Cory] from Vancouver Hack Space was playing around with 3D printing on wood, and came up with the idea of creating raised tactile surfaces using a simple transfer process.

We don’t often try to print directly onto a wooden surface for various reasons, but [Cory] wanted to give it a go. They hoped to get some grain patterns to transfer to the surface, but as they say in the blog entry, the beauty of wood patterns is in the colouration, which doesn’t transfer. Next, they laser etched a logo into the wood surface to see how well that would transfer. It did create a discernable raised impression, but they forgot to mirror the image (oops!) and relevel the bed, so the results are less impressive than they could be. Still, it’s another useful technique to consider.

Embossing is the process by which braille sheets are made. This DIY braille encoder is pretty sweet. Of course, the process can simply be decorative. Here’s how to use a laser cutter to create your own embossing seals. The traditional way to emboss paper for a fancy effect was to use embossing powder to selectively change the properties of drying paper. But how can you make the stuff for cheap?

Art of 3D printer in the middle of printing a Hackaday Jolly Wrencher logo

3D Printering: Switch And Klip(per)

Last time I tried to convince you that, if you haven’t already, you should try running your 3D printer with Klipper. There are several ways to actually make it work.

The first thing you need is something to run the Klipper host. Most people use a Raspberry Pi and if you already have one that runs OctoPrint, for example, you might well use it. Just tuck your SD card away in case you give up and install a fresh Linux system on a new card.

The Creality Sonic Pad has issues, but it does work.

However, a Pi isn’t your only option. You should be able to make it work on nearly anything that runs Linux. We’ve even seen it running on Windows under WSL. If you have an old laptop that can run Linux, that would work, too. We’ve even heard it works on a Chromebook.

The other option is to get a “pad.” Several vendors make touchscreens with some Linux single-board computer bundled together with Klipper preinstalled. For example, there is the Creality Sonic Pad, along with similar devices from other 3D printing companies.

If you decide to go that route, you might want to make sure it is easy to install your own software easily. Some pads, like the Creality unit, are notorious for having so much customization that they don’t lend themselves to upgrades unless they come from the manufacturer. In some cases, you can wipe out the stock firmware and install a normal operating system, but at that point, you could probably just buy a Pi and a touchscreen, right?

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CCFL Scanner Bulb Makes A Cool Desk Lamp

The bulbs inside scanners (before transitioning to LED, anyway) were cold cathode fluorescent tubes that emit a fairly wide bandwidth of light. They were purpose-built to produce a very specific type and shape of light, but [Julius Curt] has taken this in a new, upcycled direction. Instead of just producing light, the light itself is also part of the aesthetic. A very cool 3D printed case houses the bulb and power supply and smartly hides the connecting wires to achieve a very clean look.

Part of the design involves adding a DC-DC converter before the lamp driver, allowing fading of the light. This isn’t anything new in lamps, but [Julius] noticed an interesting effect when dimming the vertically oriented lamp: as the power was reduced, the column of light would start to extinguish from one end, leading to an elongated teardrop-shaped light source.

This leads to a very interesting look, and the neat case design leads to an extremely unique lamp! The emitted light’s color temperature seems to vary a bit as the voltage drops, going from what appears to be a pretty cold white to a slightly warmer tone.

The design process is detailed on the project page, with a quick look at the CAD design process for the case. A neat touch was using a greeble (part of a coffee grinder) to add some different textures and break up the plastic-only look. That’s one we’ll have to note in our design books!

Continue reading “CCFL Scanner Bulb Makes A Cool Desk Lamp”

Art of 3D printer in the middle of printing a Hackaday Jolly Wrencher logo

3D Printering: Klipper, The Free 3D Printer Upgrade

I have several 3D printers, and I’ve always been satisfied with using either Repetier or Marlin on all of them. There are a few other firmware versions that could run on my hardware, but those two have been all I’ve needed. Sure, it was painful for a while having to juggle features to fit the firmware image onto the smaller microcontroller boards. Now that Marlin supports big 32-bit boards however, that hasn’t been a problem. But recently, I’ve been on a program to switch everything to Klipper.

In this post, I’ll tell you why I did it and give you some data about why you might consider it, too.

The Landscape

Marlin is written in C and burned into a 3D printer’s flash memory. It does a lot. It receives G-code commands, interprets them, and translates them to meaningful actions on the hardware. Modern versions handle automatic transformations to account for lumpy beds, input shaping to reduce shaking, and linear advance to produce better prints.

It might seem simple to control a 3D printer, but there are lots of little details to take into account. For example, if you are moving the head between two XY coordinates and you expect a certain flow rate, then you have to figure out how fast to turn the steppers to get the right amount of plastic out over that time. You also may have to retract before you start a move, make sure temperatures are stable, and transform the actual coordinates based on bed leveling data. There’s a lot going on.

Klipper does the exact same job, but it does it differently. On the 3D printer board is a tiny piece of software that does very little. It’s a bit like a device driver for the printer. All by itself, it does nothing. But it can handle very basic commands that describe how to move the machine.

All the rest of the processing you expect to happen now runs on some Linux computer. That is very often a Raspberry Pi, but it could be a spare laptop, your desktop computer, or anything that will run a reasonable Linux install. Several vendors even sell single-board computers with touchscreens made specifically for running this part of Klipper.

However, even though a screen is nice, you don’t really need it. I’ll talk about that more later.

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Fast 3D Printing With A Polar, Four Quadrant Custom Machine

3D printing is all well and good for making low numbers of units, so long as they’re small enough to print in a reasonable time, but what if you want to go really big? Does a 35-hour print time sound like a fun time? Would it even make it that long? [Nathan] from Nathan Build Robots didn’t fancy the wait, so they embarked on a project to build a huge parallel 3D printer with four independent print heads. Well, kind of. Continue reading “Fast 3D Printing With A Polar, Four Quadrant Custom Machine”

UC Berkeley Prints Glass Nanoparticles

In a recent video, [Joel] of 3D Printing Nerd interviews a researcher at University of California, Berkeley about their work with glass 3D printing technology. A resin is impregnated with tiny glass nanoparticles and produces green parts. An oven burns away the resin and then another heating step produces the actual silica glass part. You can see a video about the process below.

As you might expect with glass, the temperatures are toasty. The first burn is at 1100 C and the fusing burn is at 1300 C. The nanoparticles are about 40 nanometers across. The resulting parts are tiny with very small feature sizes. The technology to do this has been around for a few years, and the University continues researching this form of computed axial lithograph (CAL) 3D printing. These parts are so small that it uses an adaptation called microCAL that produces much smaller parts at high precision. However, the equipment available today won’t produce very large objects. The video talks about the uses for some of these small glass items.

We wonder how much the firings in the ovens change the tiny tolerances. They obviously work, so either they account for that or it doesn’t shrink much.

If you want your own 3D printed glass, a laser system might be more practical. If you just want transparent plastic, your FDM printer can do that. Really.

Continue reading “UC Berkeley Prints Glass Nanoparticles”

An L-shaped orange mounting structure with two white reservoirs on top, a set of pumps on the outer bottom edges, and a membrane cell bolted together in the center. The parts are connected by a series of transparent tubes.

Open Source Residential Energy Storage

Battery news typically covers the latest, greatest laboratory or industry breakthroughs to push modern devices further and faster. Could you build your own flow battery stationary storage for home-built solar and wind rigs though?

Based on the concept of appropriate technology, the system from the Flow Battery Research Collective will be easy to construct, easy to maintain, and safe to operate in a residential environment. Current experiments are focusing on Zn/I chemistry, but other aqueous chemistries could be used in the future. Instead of an ion exchange membrane, the battery uses readily attainable photo paper and is already showing similar order of magnitude performance to lab-developed cells.

Any components that aren’t off-the-shelf have been designed in FreeCAD. While they can be 3D printed, the researchers have found traditional milling yields better results which isn’t too surprising when you need something water-tight. More work is needed, but it is promising work toward a practical, DIY-able energy storage solution.

If you’re looking to build your own open source wind turbine or solar cells to charge up a home battery system, then we’ve got you covered. You can also break the chains of the power grid with off-the-shelf parts.