acrylic

139 Articles

Building Beautiful LED Lanterns With Black LED Acrylic

December 27, 2025 by 7 Comments

[Geeksmithing] and [When Geeks Craft] recently came together for a glowing collaboration. They wanted to build ever more attractive lanterns for a local parade event. They recently discovered a fantastic material that can really improve the look of whatever project you might be building with LEDs.

The material is commonly referred to as “Black LED Acrylic” or similar. In this case, it was sourced from TAP Plastics, though you can source similar acrylic from other vendors, too. From first glance, it looks like any other piece of black acrylic plastic. However, shine an LED through it, and it will be beautifully diffused and smoothed out to wonderful visual effect. A simple test of a 3×3 array of LEDs behind a 3D-printed grid shows how good this can look. It almost entirely eliminates hot spots, and the result looks like a display built out of juicy glowing cubes. The duo used this material to produce giant pixel art lanterns for their local parade. We only get a glimpse at the final build, but it appears giant Pacman and Blinky totems are on the way.

If you’ve been struggling to find a good way to diffuse the light from LEDs, you might want to give this stuff a try. Alternatively, you might explore some other methods we’ve looked at before, and don’t discount ping pong balls, either.

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PC Watercooling Uses Everything But CNC Machining

December 26, 2025 by No comments

Names and labels are difficult. Take this “3D Printed” water-cooling loop by [Visual Thinker] on YouTube. It undeniably uses 3D printing — but it also uses silicone casting and laser-cut acrylic, too. All of these are essential parts, yet only 3D printing gets top billing in his thumbnail. At least the version we saw, anyway; the A/B testing game YouTubers play means that may change.

Perhaps that’s simply due to the contrast with [Visual Thinker]’s last build, where the “distro plate” that acts to plumb most of the coolant was made of layers of CNC-routed acrylic, held water-tight with O-rings. Not wanting to wait for his next build to be fabricated, and not wanting to take up CNC machining himself, [Visual Thinker] fell back on tools many of us have and know: the 3D printer and laser cutter.

In this project, the end plates of the cooling loop are still clear acrylic, but he’s using a laser cutter to shape them. That means he cannot route out gaps for o-rings like in the last project, so that part gets 3D printed. Sort of. Not trusting the seal a 3D printed gasket would be able to give him, [Visual Thinker] opts to use his 3D printer to create a mold to cast a seal in silicone. Or perhaps “injection-mold” would be a better word than cast; he’s using a large syringe to force the degassed silicone into the mold. The end part is three pieces: a 3D printed spacer holding two acrylic plates, with the cast-silicone gasket keeping the whole thing water-tight to at least 50 psi, 10x the operating pressure of his PC.

After that success, he tries replacing the printed spacer with acrylic for a more transparent look. In that version only temporary shims that are used to form the mold are 3D printed at all, and the rest is acrylic. Even if you’re not building a water-cooled art PC, it’s still a great technique to keep in your back pocket for fluid channeling.

In some ways, this technique is the exact opposite of the copper-pipe steampunk builds we’ve featured previously. Those were all about pretty plumbing, while with a distro plate you hardly need pipes at all. Like any water-cooled project, it’ll need a radiator, which could be a hack in and of itself.

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Clock Of Clocks Expands, Goes Digital

August 8, 2025 by 9 Comments

Some people just want to have their cake and eat it too, but very few of us ever get to pull it off. [Erich Styger] has, though with V5 of his “MetaMetaClock”— a clock made of clocks, that uses the orientation of the hands to create digits.

We’ve seen previous versions of this clock. As before, the build is exquisitely detailed and all relevant files are on GitHub. This version keeps the acrylic light-pipe hands of version 4, but adds more of them: 60 clocks vs 24. Larger PCBs are used, grouping the dual-shaft steppers into groups of four, instead of the individual PCBs used before. Each PCB has an NXP LPC845 (a Cortex M0 microcontroller) that communicates on an RS-485 bus. Placing four steppers per microcontroller reduces parts count somewhat compared to previous versions (which had each ‘clock’ on its own modular PCB) albeit at the cost of some flexibility.

While the last version used veneers on its face, this version is cut by CNC by from a large slab of oak. It’s certainly the most attractive version yet, and while bigger isn’t always better, more clock faces means more potential effects. Date? Time? Block letters? Arbitrary text? Kaleidoscopic colours from the RGB LEDs? It’s all there, and since it’s open source, anyone who builds one can add more options. A BLE interface makes it quick and easy to wirelessly switch between them or set the time.

It’s nice sometimes to watch projects like this improve incrementally over time. [Erich] mentions that he plans to add Wifi and a web-based user interface for the next version. We look forward to it, and are grateful to  [jicasi] for the tip. Just as it is always clock time at Hackaday, so you can always toss a tip of your own into the box.

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Laser Cut Acrylic Provides Movie-Style Authentication

February 12, 2025 by 13 Comments

Here at Hackaday, we pride ourselves on bringing you the latest and greatest projects for your viewing pleasure. But sometimes we come across a creation so interesting that we find ourselves compelled to write about it, even if it’s already been hanging around the Internet for years. This may or may not be due to the fact that we just re-watched Crimson Tide, and found ourselves on a self-imposed dive into a very particular rabbit hole…

If you’ve seen Crimson Tide, or the first few minutes of WarGames, you might already know what this post is about. Both films prominently make use of a one-time authentication device which the user snaps in half to reveal a card that has some secret code printed on it — and as it turns out, there are at least two different projects that aim to replicate the props used in the movies.

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Dress Up Your 3D Prints With Toner-Transfer Labels

January 2, 2025 by 25 Comments

We’ve always found the various methods for adding text and graphics to 3D prints somewhat underwhelming. Embossed or debossed characters are fuzzy, at best, and multi-color printers always seem to bleed one color into the next. Still, the need for labels and logos is common enough that it’s worth exploring other methods, such as this easy toner transfer trick.

Home PCB makers will probably find the method [Squalius] describes in the video below very familiar, and with good reason. We’ve seen toner transfer used to mask PCBs before etching, and the basic process here is very similar. It starts with printing the desired graphics on regular paper using a laser printer; don’t forget to mirror the print. The printed surface is scuffed up a bit, carefully cleaned, and coated with a thick layer of liquid acrylic medium, of the kind used in paint pouring. The mirrored print is carefully laid on the acrylic, toner-side down, and more medium is brushed on the back of the paper. After the print dries, the paper is removed with a little water and some gentle friction, leaving the toner behind. A coat of polyurethane protects the artwork reasonably well.

[Squalius] has tested the method with PLA and PETG and reports good results. The text is clear and sharp, and even fine text and dithered graphics look pretty good. Durability could be better, and [Squalius] is looking for alternative products that might work better for high-wear applications. It looks like it works best on lightly textured surfaces, too, as opposed to surfaces with layer lines. We’d love to see if color laser prints work, too; [Squalius] says that’s in the works, and we’ve seen examples before that are reason for optimism.

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FallingWater Clock Puts New Spin On A Common LCD

December 27, 2024 by 4 Comments

Sometimes, all it takes is looking at an existing piece of tech in a new way to come up with something unique. That’s the whole idea behind FallingWater, a gorgeous Art Deco inspired clock created by [Mark Wilson] — while the vertical LCD might look like some wild custom component, it’s simply a common DM8BA10 display module that’s been rotated 90 degrees.

As demonstrated in the video below, by turning the LCD on its side, [Mark] is able to produce some visually striking animations. At the same time the display is still perfectly capable of showing letters and numbers, albeit in a single column and with noticeably wider characters.

In another application it might look odd, but when combined with the “sunburst” style enclosure, it really comes together. Speaking of the enclosure, [Mark] used OpenSCAD to visualize the five layer stack-up, which was then recreated in Inkscape so it could ultimately be laser-cut from acrylic.

Rounding out the build is a “Leonardo Tiny” ATmega32U4 board, a DS3221 real-time clock (RTC), a couple of pushbuttons, and a light dependent resistor (LDR) used to dim the display when the ambient light level is low. All of the electronics are housed on a small custom PCB, making for a nicely compact package.

This build is as simple as it is stylish, and we wouldn’t be surprised if it inspired more than a few clones. At the time of writing, [Mark] hadn’t published the source code for the ATmega, but he has provided the code to generate the cut files for the enclosure, as well as the Gerber files for the PCB. If you come up with your own version of this retro-futuristic timepiece, let us know.

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Laser Painting Explained

October 17, 2024 by 7 Comments

If you get an inexpensive diode laser cutter, you might have been disappointed to find it won’t work well with transparent acrylic. The material just passes most of the light at that wavelength, so there’s not much you can do with it. So how did [Rich] make a good-looking sign using a cheap laser? He used a simple paint and mask technique that will work with nearly any clear material, and it produces great-looking results, as you can see in the video below.

[Rich] starts with a piece of Acrylic covered with paper and removes the paper to form a mask. Of course, even a relatively anemic laser can slice through the paper covering with no trouble at all. He also cuts an outline, which requires a laser to cut the acrylic. However, you could easily apply this to a rectangular hand-cut blank. Also, most diode lasers can cut thin acrylic, but it doesn’t always come out as cleanly as you’d like.

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