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Hackaday Links: July 14, 2024

We’ve been going on at length in this space about the death spiral that AM radio seems to be in, particularly in the automotive setting. Car makers have begun the process of phasing AM out of their infotainment systems, ostensibly due to its essential incompatibility with the electronics in newer vehicles, especially EVs. That argument always seemed a little specious to us, since the US has an entire bureaucracy dedicated to making sure everyone works and plays well with each other on the electromagnetic spectrum. The effort to drop AM resulted in pushback from US lawmakers, who threatened legislation to ensure every vehicle has the ability to receive AM broadcasts, on the grounds of its utility in a crisis and that we’ve spent billions ensuring that 80% of the population is within range of an AM station.

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Tiny Transceiver Gets It Done With One Transistor

When we first spotted the article about a one-transistor amateur radio transceiver, we were sure it was a misprint. We’ve seen a lot of simple low-power receivers using a single transistor, and a fair number of one-transistor transmitters. But both in one package with only a single active component? Curiosity piqued.

It turns out that [Ciprian Popica (YO6DXE)]’s design is exactly what it says on the label, and it’s pretty cool to boot. The design is an improvement on a one-transistor transceiver called “El Pititico” and is very petite indeed. The BOM has only about fifteen parts including a 2N2222 used as a crystal-controlled oscillator for both the transmitter and the direct-conversion receiver, along with a handful of passives and a coupe of hand-wound toroidal inductors. There’s no on-board audio section, so you’ll have to provide an external amplifier to hear the signals; some might say this is cheating a bit from the “one transistor” thing, but we’ll allow it. Oh, and there’s a catch — you have to learn Morse code, since this is a CW-only transmitter.

As for construction, [Ciprian] provides a nice PCB  layout, but the video below seems to show a more traditional “ugly style” build, which we always appreciate. The board lives in a wooden box small enough to get lost in a pocket. The transceiver draws about 1.5 mA while receiving and puts out a fairly powerful 500 mW signal, which is fairly high in the QRP world. [Ciprian] reports having milked a full watt out of it with some modifications, but that kind of pushes the transistor into Magic Smoke territory. The signal is a bit chirpy, too, but not too bad.

We love minimalist builds like these; they always have us sizing up our junk bin and wishing we were better stocked on crystals and toroids. It might be good to actually buckle down and learn Morse too.

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DIY Spacer Increases FDM Flow Rate For Faster, Better Printing

The host of problems to deal with when you’re feeling the need for FDM speed are many and varied, but high on the list is figuring out how to melt filament fast enough to accommodate high flow rates. Plus, the filament must be melted completely; a melty outside and a crunchy inside might be good for snacks, but not for 3D printing. Luckily, budget-minded hobbyists can build a drop-in booster to increase volumetric flow using only basic tools and materials.

[aamott]’s booster, which started life as a copper screw, is designed to replace the standard spacer in an extruder, with a bore that narrows as the filament gets closer to the nozzle to ensure that the core of the filament melts completely. Rather than a lathe, [aamott]’s main tool is a drill press, which he used to drill a 0.7 mm bore through the screw using a PCB drill bit. The hole was reamed out with a 10° CNC engraving bit, generating the required taper. After cutting off the head of the screw and cleaning up the faces, he cut radial slots into the body of the booster by threading the blade of a jeweler’s saw into the bore. The result was a bore wide enough to accept the filament on one end, narrowing to a (roughly) cross-shaped profile at the other.

Stacked up with a couple of knock-off Bondtech CHT nozzles, the effect of the booster was impressive — a 50% increase in flow rate. It’s not bad for a prototype made with simple tools, and it looks a little easier to build than [Stefan]’s take on the same idea.

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Celebrating The [Jack Ells] Automatic Photometric Telescope

Here at Hackaday, we take pride in presenting the freshest hacks and the best of what’s going on today in the world of hardware hacking. But sometimes, we stumble upon a hack from the past so compelling that we’ve got to bring it to you, so we can all marvel at what was possible in the Before Times.

This one, a completely homebrewed automatic photometric telescope, was designed and built by the father-son team of [Jack Ells] and [Peter Ells]. From the elder [Ells]’ field notes, the telescope saw its first light in 1988, giving us some idea of the scale of problems that had to be overcome to get this wonderful machine working. The optics are straightforward, as least as telescopes go — it’s an f-4.0 Newtonian reflector with an 8.5″ (221 mm) primary mirror on an equatorial mount. The telescope is very rugged-looking indeed, and even stands on brick piers for stability. The telescope’s mount is controlled by a BBC Micro running custom BASIC software.

For the photometric parts, the [Ells] boys installed a photo-multiplier tube at the focus of the telescope. More precisely, they used a liquid light guide to connect the eyepiece to a rack full of equipment, which included the PM tube, its high-voltage power supply, and a series of signal conditioners and counter circuits. The idea was to view a single star through a pinhole mask over the objective of the telescope and count the rate of photons received over time. Doing so would reveal periodic changes in the star’s brightness. Today we’d use similar data to search for exoplanet transits; while we don’t think that was a thing back in 1988, it looks like this telescope could easily have handled the job.

Sadly, [Jack Ells] died only two years after finishing the telescope. But he left it with his son, who eventually moved it to a location with better seeing conditions, where it gathered data for another eight years. The quality of the work is amazing, and as father-son projects go, this one is tough to beat.

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Model Rocket Nails Vertical Landing After Three-Year Effort

Model rocketry has always taken cues from what’s happening in the world of full-scale rockets, with amateur rocketeers doing their best to incorporate the technologies and methods into their creations. That’s not always an easy proposition, though, as this three-year effort to nail a SpaceX-style vertical landing aptly shows.

First of all, hats off to high schooler [Aryan Kapoor] from JRD Propulsion for his tenacity with this project. He started in 2021 with none of the basic skills needed to pull off something like this, but it seems like he quickly learned the ropes. His development program was comprehensive, with static test vehicles, a low-altitude hopper, and extensive testing of the key technology: thrust-vector control. His rocket uses two solid-propellant motors stacked on top of each other, one for ascent and one for descent and landing. They both live in a 3D printed gimbal mount with two servos that give the stack plus and minus seven degrees of thrust vectoring in two dimensions, which is controlled by a custom flight computer with a barometric altimeter and an inertial measurement unit. The landing gear is also clever, using rubber bands to absorb landing forces and syringes as dampers.

The video below shows the first successful test flight and landing. Being a low-altitude flight, everything happens very quickly, which probably made programming a challenge. It looked like the landing engine wasn’t going to fire as the rocket came down significantly off-plumb, but when it finally did light up the rocket straightened and nailed the landing. [Aryan] explains the major bump after the first touchdown as caused by the ascent engine failing to eject; the landing gear and the flight controller handled the extra landing mass with aplomb.

All in all, very nice work from [Aryan], and we’re keen to see this one progress.

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Hackable Ham Radio Gives Up Its Mechanical Secrets

Reverse-engineered schematics are de rigeur around these parts, largely because they’re often the key to very cool hardware hacks. We don’t get to see many mechanical reverse-engineering efforts, though, which is a pity because electronic hacks often literally don’t stand on their own. That’s why these reverse-engineered mechanical diagrams of the Quansheng UV-K5 portable amateur radio transceiver really caught our eye.

Part of the reason for the dearth of mechanical diagrams for devices, even one as electrically and computationally hackable as the UV-K5, is that mechanical diagrams are a lot less abstract than a schematic or even firmware. Luckily, this fact didn’t daunt [mdlougheed] from putting a stripped-down UV-K5 under a camera for a series of images to gather the raw data needed by photogrammetry package RealityCapture. The point cloud was thoughtfully scaled to match the dimensions of the radio’s reverse-engineered PC board, so the two models can work together.

The results are pretty impressive, especially for a first effort, and should make electromechanical modifications to the radio all the easier to accomplish. Hats off to [mdlougheed] for the good work, and let the mechanical hacks begin.

Keep Your Lungs Clean And Happy With A DIY Supplied-Air Respirator

The smell of resin SLA printing is like the weather — everybody complains about it, but nobody does anything about it. At least until now, as [Aris Alder] tackles the problem with an affordable DIY supplied-air respirator.

Now, we know what you’re thinking, anything as critical as breathing is probably best left to the professionals. While we agree in principle, most solutions from reputable companies would cost multiple thousands of dollars to accomplish, making it hard to justify for a home gamer who just doesn’t want to breathe in nasty volatile organic compounds. [Aris] starts the video below with a careful examination of the different available respirator options, concluding that a supplied air respirator (SAR) is the way to go.

His homebrew version consists of an affordable, commercially available plastic hood with a built-in visor. Rather than an expensive oil-free compressor to supply the needed airflow, he sourced a low-cost inline duct fan and placed it outside the work zone to pull in fresh air. Connecting the two is low-cost polyethylene tubing and a couple of 3D printed adapters. This has the advantage of being very lightweight and less likely to yank the hood off your head, and can be replaced in a few seconds when it inevitably punctures.

Another vital part of the kit is a pulse oximeter, which [Aris] uses to make sure he’s getting enough oxygen. His O2 saturation actually goes up from his baseline when the hood is on and powered up, which bodes well for the system. Every time we pick up the welding torch or angle grinder we wish for something like this, so it might just be time to build one.

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