Over at EDN, [Brian Dipert] has been tearing down web cameras. A few months ago, he broke into a bargain basement camera. This time, he’s looking into a premium unit. Although we have to admit from some of what he reports, we are a little surprised at some of the corners cut. For example, it’s a 4K camera that doesn’t quite provide a 4K image. Despite a Sony CMOS sensor, [Brian] found the low-light performance to be poor. However, it does carry a much larger price tag than the previous camera examined.
The interesting part is about half way down the page when he tries to open the unit up. It seems like it is getting harder and harder to get into things and this camera was no exception. The device finally gives up. Inside is a relatively unremarkable board with a host of unknown ICs. One interesting item is a gyro chip that determines if the camera is upside down.
[Brian] managed to get the camera back together with no harm. It is interesting to compare it to the $15 camera he took apart earlier.
Canadian consumer goods testing site RTINGS has been subjecting 100 TVs to an accelerated TV longevity test, subjecting them so far to over 10,000 hours of on-time, equaling about six years of regular use in a US household. This test has shown a range of interesting issues and defects already, including for the OLED-based TVs. But the most recent issue which they covered is that of uniformity issues with edge-lit TVs. This translates to uneven backlighting including striping and very bright spots, which teardowns revealed to be due to warped reflector sheets, cracked light guides, and burned-out LEDs.
Excluding the 18 OLED TVs, which are now badly burnt in, over a quarter of the remaining TVs in the test suffer from uniformity issues. But things get interesting when contrasting between full-array local dimming (FALD), direct-lit (DL) and edge-lit (EL) LCD TVs. Of the EL types, 7 out of 11 (64%) have uniformity issues, with one having outright failed and others in the process of doing so. Among the FALD and DL types the issue rate here is 14 out of 71 (20%), which is still not ideal after a simulated 6 years of use but far less dramatic.
Cracks in the Samsung AU8000’s Light Guide Plate (Credit: RTINGS)
As part of the RTINGS longevity test, failures and issues are investigated and a teardown for analysis, and fixing, is performed when necessary. For these uniformity issues, the EL LCD teardowns revealed burned-out LEDs in the EL LED strips, with cracks in the light-guide plate (LGP) that distributes the light, as well as warped reflector sheets. The LGPs are offset slightly with plastic standoffs to not touch the very hot LEDs, but these standoffs can melt, followed by the LGP touching the hot LEDs. With the damaged LGP, obviously the LCD backlighting will be horribly uneven.
In the LG QNED80 (2022) TV, its edge lighting LEDs were measured with a thermocouple to be running at a searing 123 °C at the maximum brightness setting. As especially HDR (high-dynamic range) content requires high brightness levels, this would thus be a more common scenario in EL TVs than one might think. As for why EL LCDs still exist since they seem to require extreme heatsinking to keep the LEDs from melting straight through the LCD? RTINGS figures it’s because EL allows for LCD TVs to be thinner, allowing them to compete with OLEDs while selling at a premium compared to even FALD LCDs.
AVO meters — literally amp, volt, ohm meters — are not very common in North America but were staples in the UK. [TheHWcave] found an AVO 8 that is probably from the 1950s or 1960s and wanted to get it working. You can see the project in the video below.
These are very different from the standard analog meters many of us grew up with. [TheHWcave] shows how the dual range knobs work together to set the measurement. There are three separate ohm settings, and each one has its own zero pot. We were surprised that the meter didn’t have a parallax-correcting mirror.
Other than dirty switch contacts, the voltage measurements still worked. After cleaning the contacts, most of the ranges worked well, although there were still some issues. Some of the resistor ranges were not working, either. Inside the case were an old D cell and a square battery, a B121 15 V battery. Replacing the 15 V battery with a bench supply made things better.
Some plugins are available to allow the meter to read low resistance or high currents. We thought using the soldering gun as a current source was clever. Once he gets it working, he opens the box around the 14:30 mark.
The inside was all hand-wiring and power resistors. Of course, there are also a ton of contacts for the switches. So it isn’t just an electrical design, but a mechanical one, too. The electrical design is also interesting, and an analysis of it winds the video down.
Back in 1976, when calculators were not common or cheap, a company named MEGO made the Star Trekulator: a calculator sporting a Star Trek theme. However, it was a bit odd since the calculator didn’t correspond to anything you ever saw on the TV show. It was essentially a very simple calculator with a Star Trek picture and some blinking LEDs. [Computer History Archives Project] has two examples of the rare calculator and shows them off, including the insides, in the video below. We’ve also included a vintage commercial for the device a little farther down.
Inside the 5-inch by 9.5-inch cabinet was an unremarkable printed circuit board. The main component was a TI calculator chip, but there were a surprising amount of other components, including three that [Computer History Archives Project] could not identify.
MEGO was known for making Star Trek toys, including a cassette player that (sorta) looked like a tricorder and communicator walkie-talkies. We wish they’d made the calculator look like some sort of prop from the show, although the beeping noises, we suppose, were supposed to sound like the Star Trek computers.
Honestly, we want to 3D print a case to replicate this with modern insides that can drive a display to put different Trek clips and sound effects out. Now, that would be something. Maybe [Michael Gardi] can take a look at it when he’s got a spare minute. If anything, the calculator looks too advanced to be on the original series. They should have gone VFD. Although Mr. Spock has been seen with a flight slide rule (an E6-B, if we recall). We prefer our props to look like the real ones, thank you.
If you’ve ever seen the cockpit of an airplane, you’ve probably noticed the round ball that shows your attitude, and if you are like us, you’ve wondered exactly how the Attitude Direction Indicator (ADI) works. Well, [msylvain59] is tearing one apart in the video below, so you can satisfy your curiosity in less than 30 minutes.
Like most things on an airplane, it is built solidly and compactly. With the lid open, it reminded us of a tiny CRT oscilloscope, except the CRT is really the ball display. It also has gears, which is something we don’t expect to see in a scope.
[Thomas Scherrer] likes to tear down old test equipment, and often, we remember the devices he opens up or — at least — we’ve heard of them. However, this time, he’s got a Hung Chang HC-F100 multifunction counter, which is a vintage 1986 instrument that can reach 100 MHz.
Inside, the product is clearly a child of its time period. There’s a transformer for the linear supply, through-hole components, and an Intersil frequency counter on a chip. Everything is easy to get to and large enough to see.
If you ever encounter a British engineer of a certain age, the chances are that even if they use a modern DMM they’ll have a big boxy multimeter in their possession. This is the famous Avo 8, in its day the analogue multimeter to have. Of course it wasn’t the only AVO product, and [Thomas Scherrer OZ2CPU] is here with another black box sporting an AVO logo. This one’s an AC bridge, one of a series of models manufactured from the 1930s through to the late 1940s, and he treats us to a teardown and restoration of it.
Most readers will probably be familiar with the operation of a DC Wheatstone Bridge in which two resistances can be compared, and an AC bridge is the same idea but using an AC source. A component under test is attached to one set of terminals while one with a known value is put on the other, and the device can then be adjusted for a minimum reading on its meter to achieve a state of balance. The amount by which it is adjusted can then be used as a measure of the difference between the two parts, and thus the value of an unknown part can be deduced.
In the case of this AVO the AC is the 50Hz (remembering that this is a British instrument) mains frequency, and the reading from the bridge is taken via a single tube amplifier to a rectifier circuit and the meter. Inside it’s a treasure trove of vintage parts with an electrolytic capacitor that looks as though it might not be original, with a selenium rectifier and a copper oxide signal diode in particular catching our eye. This last part is responsible for some reading anomalies, but after cleaning and lubricating all the switches and bringing up the voltage gently, he’s rewarded with a working bridge. You can see the whole story in the video below the break.
