A couple of weeks back, we covered an interesting method for prototyping PCBs using a modified CNC mill to 3D print solder onto a blank FR4 substrate. The video showing this process generated a lot of interest and no fewer than 20 tips to the Hackaday tips line, which continued to come in dribs and drabs this week. In a world where low-cost, fast-turn PCB fabs exist, the amount of effort that went into this method makes little sense, and readers certainly made that known in the comments section. Given that the blokes who pulled this off are gearheads with no hobby electronics background, it kind of made their approach a little more understandable, but it still left a ton of practical questions about how they pulled it off. And now a new video from the aptly named Bad Obsession Motorsports attempts to explain what went on behind the scenes.
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That’ll Go Over Like A Cement Airplane
Most of us have made paper airplanes at one time or another, but rather than stopping at folded paper, [VirgileC] graduated to 3D printing them out of PLA. Then the obvious question is: can you cast one in cement? The answer is yes, you can, but note that the question was not: can a cement plane fly? The answer to that is no, it can’t.
Of course, you could use this to model things other than non-flying airplanes. The key is using alginate, a natural polymer derived from brown seaweed, to form the mold. The first step was to suspend the PLA model in a flowerpot with the holes blocked. Next, the flowerpot gets filled with alginate.
After a bit, you can remove the PLA from the molding material by cutting it and then reinserting it into the flower pot. However, you don’t want it to dry out completely as it tends to deform. With some vibration, you can fill the entire cavity with cement.
The next day, it was possible to destroy the alginate mold and recover the cement object inside. However, the cement will still be somewhat wet, so you’ll want to let the part dry further.
Usually, we see people print the mold directly using flexible filament. If you don’t like airplanes, maybe that’s a sign.
Microwave Forge Casts The Sinking-est Benchy Ever
As a test artifact, 3DBenchy does a pretty good job of making sure your 3D printer is up to scratch. As an exemplar of naval architecture, though — well, let’s just say that if it weren’t for the trapped air in the infilled areas, most Benchy prints wouldn’t float at all. About the only way to make Benchy less seaworthy would be to make it out of cast iron. Challenge accepted.
We’ve grown accustomed to seeing [Denny] over at “Shake the Future” on YouTube using his microwave-powered kilns to cast all sorts of metal, but this time he puts his skill and experience to melting iron. For those not in the know, he uses standard consumer-grade microwave ovens to heat kilns made from ceramic fiber and lots of Kapton tape, which hold silicon carbide crucibles that get really, really hot under the RF onslaught. It works surprisingly well, especially considering he does it all on an apartment balcony.
For this casting job, he printed a Benchy model from PLA and made a casting mold from finely ground silicon carbide blasting medium mixed with a little sodium silicate, or water glass. His raw material was a busted-up barbell weight, which melted remarkably well in the kiln. The first pour appeared to go well, but the metal didn’t quite make it all the way to the tip of Benchy’s funnel. Round two was a little more exciting, with a cracked crucible and spilled molten metal. The third time was a charm, though, with a nice pour and complete mold filling thanks to the vibrations of a reciprocating saw.
After a little fettling and a saltwater bath to achieve the appropriate patina, [Denny] built a neat little Benchy tableau using microwave-melted blue glass as a stand-in for water. It highlights the versatility of his method, which really seems like a game-changer for anyone who wants to get into home forging without the overhead of a proper propane or oil-fired furnace. Continue reading “Microwave Forge Casts The Sinking-est Benchy Ever”
Print Wave Metal Casting
Direct 3D printing of metal remains out of reach for the hobbyist at the moment, so casting is often the next best thing, particularly given the limitations of 3D printed metals. [Denny] from Shake the Future shows us how to simplify the process with “print wave metal casting.”
The first step of printing a PLA object will seem familiar to any 3D print to metal process, but the main differentiator here is pouring the investment casting on the printer build plate itself. We like how he used some G-code to shake the build plate to help remove bubbles. Once the plaster solidifies, the plastic and mold are placed in the microwave to soften the plastic for removal.
The plaster is dried in an oven (or air fryer) and then [Denny] bolts the mold together for the casting process. Adding a vacuum helps with the surface finish, but you can always polish the metal with a generous helping of elbow grease.
If [Denny] seems familiar, you might remember his very detailed breakdown of microwave casting. We’ve seen plenty of different approaches to metal casting over the years here. Need a part in another material? How about casting concrete or resin?
Thanks to [marble] on the Hackaday Discord for the tip!
Old Knobs With A Cast Of Thousands
You have an old radio — in the case of [The Radio Mechanic], a Stromberg Carlson — and it needs new knobs. What do you do? You can’t very well pop down to the local store and find any knobs anymore. Even if you are lucky enough to be around an electronics store, they aren’t going to have knobs to do justice to an antique radio. You could 3D print them, of course, but there are a number of issues with transferring the old knob to a CAD file for printing. So [The Radio Mechanic] decided to cast them instead.
He printed some fixtures to help with the molding using two-part molding silicone. He mounted the knob on a shaft in a jig, filled the jig with silicone, and lowered the knob into the mix. The next day, he had a good-looking mold.
The next step, of course, is to cast with resin. Admittedly 3D printing would have been faster, but would not have as nice a surface finish. The epoxy resin is clear, but he was hopeful that some caramel pigment would match the original knob color. Spoiler alert: it didn’t. The resulting knob looked translucent, like a root beer barrel candy, rather than the brown sugar color of the original knob.
The knob needed a spring insert to hold the shaft, so he repurposed some from a different kind of radio. Overall, this is the kind of thing we always think we are going to do when we need something and then we rarely follow through. Then again, we rarely have the patience to wait as long as these two knobs took to make.
Of course, a casting guerrilla doesn’t have to make just knobs. You can even add metal powders to do cold metal casting.
Lost Foam Casting In Action
Even though not all of us will do it, many of us are interested in the art of casting metal. It remains a process that’s not out of reach, though, especially for metals such as aluminium whose melting points are reachable with a gas flame. The video below the break takes us through the aluminium casting process by showing us the lost-foam casting of a cylinder head for a BSA Bantam motorcycle.
The foam pattern is CNC milled to shape, and the leftover foam swarf is removed with a hot wire. The pattern is coated with a refractory coating of gypsum slurry, and the whole is set up in a tub packed with sand. We get the impression that the escaping gasses make this a tricky pour without an extra sprue, and indeed, they rate it as not perfect. The cooling fins on the final head are a little ragged, so it won’t be the part that goes on a bike, but we can see with a bit of refining, this process could deliver very good results.
For this pour, they use a gas furnace, but we’ve seen it doneĀ with a microwave oven. Usually, you are losing wax, not foam, but the idea is the same.
How To Cast Silicone Bike Bits
It’s a sad fact of owning older machinery, that no matter how much care is lavished upon your pride and joy, the inexorable march of time takes its toll upon some of the parts. [Jason Scatena] knows this only too well, he’s got a 1976 Honda CJ360 twin, and the rubber bushes that secure its side panels are perished. New ones are hard to come by at a sensible price, so he set about casting his own in silicone.
Naturally this story is of particular interest to owners of old motorcycles, but the techniques should be worth a read to anyone, as we see how he refined his 3D printed mold design and then how he used mica powder to give the clear silicone its black colour. The final buses certainly look the part especially when fitted to the bike frame, and we hope they’ll keep those Honda side panels in place for decades to come. Where this is being written there’s a CB400F in storage, for which we’ll have to remember this project when it’s time to reactivate it.
If fettling old bikes is your thing then we hope you’re in good company here, however we’re unsure that many of you will have restored the parts bin for an entire marque.