Running A Philips CD-i Off USB-C

The Philips CD-i is a console with many shortcomings, and those include the power supply. For whatever reason, the engineering team decided it should use an 8P8C connector just like Ethernet. Thus, just like your Ethernet cables, it has that annoying problem of the tab snapping off all the time. [MattKC] wondered if the CD-i could benefit from a USB power upgrade instead, and set about making it a reality.

The plan was simple enough—get the CD-i running off of USB-C instead of the ungainly original power supply that shipped with the unit. Given the console runs almost exclusively off of 5 V power, it should have been pretty easy. Only, the original spec adds one little detail that makes things a bit harder. The console is designed to draw up to 3 A from the 5 V line, while also having a -5 V line at 0.2 A. If not for that negative supply, it would have been easy to run the unit off any old 15 W USB-C charger spitting out 5 V. That extra negative line complicates things, because while the negative line could be created with some supporting electronics, it’s hard to find that extra watt from most chargers. While there are plenty of higher-wattage USB-C chargers, the majority tend to use higher voltages to deliver the additional power, capping the 5 V output at 3 amps.

Thus, it was necessary to work a little harder. [MattKC] decided to build a board that would negotiate with a USB-C charger for 9 V operation to get the power budget necessary. This would then be stepped down to 5 V, while there would also be an inversion step to supply the -5 V line, too. A CH221K chip does the job of negotiating a 9 V USB-C power supply, while a TPSM84538 steps the voltage down to 5 V with the capacity to supply up to 5 A. An LT3580 chip then inverts this voltage for the 5 V line. There’s also a power switching circuit on board because the CD-i included some of that functionality in the original power brick.

If you’ve got a CD-i and you’re sick of fussing with the original power supply, this could be a great upgrade. We’ve also explored USB Power Delivery in detail before, if you need a primer.

Sega Genesis Controllers On The Philips CD-i

The Philips CD-i was not popular upon its launch in 1991, and is barely acknowledged today. In the opinion of [MattKC], it had a particularly poor selection of controllers, too, and it’s often hard to find used examples anyway. To rectify this situation, he whipped up an adapter to let him use Sega Genesis controllers instead.

The benefit of the Genesis controller is that it uses DB-9 connectors that are readily available, and it’s got a simple pinout that is compatible with the Atari joystick port, too. It makes interfacing the controllers supremely easy. Converting the controllers required using a Arduino Pro Micro to read the Genesis pad and translate it into something suitable for the CD-i.

On the Sega controller side, the microcontroller just has to strobe one pin while reading the state of others to determine what all the buttons are doing. The CD-i, however, expects a serial data stream from the original Philips controllers. Thus, the microcontroller is set up to poll the Genesis controller, and then translate this into the serial commands for the CD-i. It gets a little complicated, because the CD-i wasn’t really built for game controllers, but mouse-like inputs instead. But it’s not too hard to get things working once you understand what the weird Philips console is looking for.

There aren’t really any good games on the CD-i, so this isn’t a project that the retro gaming masses will be flocking to. Still, if you have a CD-i and you want to hook up some controllers on the cheap, this might come in handy. Alternatively, you could also try the BlueRetro project.

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Single Button, Handheld Gaming Console

Those of us who grew up in the 70s and 80s might be familiar with the Atari 2600 console and its now relatively unrecognizable (by modern standards) controller with only a single button and stiff whole-hand joystick. By comparison, the Steam Deck has somewhere around 24 buttons and two joysticks depending on how they are counted. But even the Atari might be providing more user inputs than are really necessary for quality gaming. Take a look at the Dinoboy, a handheld console with only a single button.

Part of what makes this system work is that it’s playing the classic dinosaur jumping game first included in Google Chrome which loads when the browser can’t connect to the Internet, and the user’s single input was the space bar. In this case, the handheld has its single button where the user’s thumb naturally rests. The console itself is in two parts, hinged where the button is placed. When unfolded, the top half reveals a wide screen and the bottom half is held by the hand. The screen supports two color formats, a black and white style and another which replicates the dot matrix display of the original Game Boy.

The small handheld console has another trick up its sleeve too. [Paul], the system’s creator, built it as a way to stop doomscrolling so along with having this quick-deploying game on hand, there’s also an NFC tag hidden near the hinge which, when swiped passed a phone, also turns that phone’s airplane mode on. It’s a double-whammy of removing the gamer from the dark patterns and algorithms dominating the mainstream Internet. And, this isn’t [Paul]’s only dinosaur jumper console either. We recently featured a similar (but much larger) build of his housed in a classic arcade-style cabinet.

A New Blood Hack For An Old Game

Even before 3D graphics and advanced shaders became common in the gaming world, there were concerns that virtual violence looked too realistic. Fighting games in the 1990s were routinely toned-down by having gratuitous displays of blood removed, which was often seen as disappointing by dedicated fans. [Raphaël Boichot] has been working to right this wrong in one obscure case, by rectifying the lack of blood in Sengoku 2.

Sengoku 2 was a title released in 1993 for the Neo Geo AES/MVS and the Neo Geo CD. It hit the market with relatively tame graphics that didn’t reflect the realistic amount of blood that should be released when an enemy was chopped in half with a sword. Noting that there was no simple DIP switch configuration or bit to flip to enable a more adult version of the game, [Raphaël] decided to create a custom blood hack the hard way. What ensued was a heavy-duty reverse engineering effort, swapping out palettes, and carefully editing tilesets in order to turn the censored graphics into something more lurid. A lot of artistic decisions had to be made to manipulate things just so in order to create a pleasing effect that didn’t mess up other aspects of the graphics at the same time.

If you’re a big Sengoku 2 fan, or you just want to learn more about reverse engineering and hacking on an obscure platform, dive into the project and enjoy the learnings. Otherwise, dive into the entirely different sorts of blood-related hacks we’ve featured over the years.

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Restoring A 3DO Blaster Card From The Early 90s

Before the modern trifecta of video game giants came to dominate the market around two decades ago, the world was awash in video game consoles. Many of these retro platforms have largely been forgotten outside of the enthusiast communities, and an average gamer today might not have ever heard of brands like ColecoVision or TurboGrafx. Among these unusual, rare, or forgotten systems was the 3DO which wasn’t strictly a console but rather a specification that manufacturers could use to make consoles on their own. But even more unusual was that this standard could be used to build 3DO-compatible expansion cards for PCs as well.

In this video, [The Retro Collective] received one of these boards to add to their museum, but like much retro hardware of this era it wasn’t working exactly like it would have out-of-the-box. After adding it to one of their period-correct 386 machines of the time, they found that it would only work properly with weight applied at one of the corners. This led to the discovery of some disconnected pins on the PCB, and a repair of that and some other issues brought the card back to life again.

The video also discusses the platform itself and shows how it would connect to a PC from that time. The PC would have needed a Sound Blaster card, a CD ROM drive with a particular proprietary interface, and a few other hardware requirements, but with everything up and working the player would have a console that theoretically competed with the original Playstation or Nintendo 64. It also illustrates an alternative path video games might have taken where expansion cards added console compatibility to any modern PC, but unfortunately the 3DO never really caught on.

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Game Cube Hot Tub Animation Brought Into Real World

Unlike the current era where most consumer electronics are black rectangles, or the early 90s where most consumer electronics were black rectangles, we got a brief glimmer of color, light, and hope in the 2000s. Cell phones had all kinds of shapes and sizes, laptops came in bright colors, and even video game consoles got in on the fun. The Nintendo GameCube not only featured its namesake shape but came in several vibrant colors, most famously a bright purple. In fact, its design was such a hit that it continues to inspire artists and console modders alike. An animator named [kidd.gorgeous] recently envisioned a GameCube as a hot tub, and [BigRig Creates] set out to make this animation a reality.

Of course, this won’t be a life-sized hot tub capable of holding a human, but [BigRig Creates] did want it to be a usable, playable Game Cube with all of the features from the animation present in the final version. Since the lid won’t be operational with a hot tub model on the top lest all of the water spill out every time a game is changed, he’s modified it with some modern tools to hold his games inside the console itself. With the case open he’s also added the LED accent lighting featured in the animation as well as added the 3D-printed hot tub to the top. The hot tub is filled with mineral oil for electronics safety, and has a small pump built in to give the appearance of a working hot tub.

The buttons around the outside are functional as well, toggling the various lighting features and hot tub operation. And of course, the console diorama is fully playable, with the staircase railing able to easily detach in order to access the leftmost controller ports. It’s a faithful adaptation of the original animation, and [BigRig Creates] has a few games on queue that are properly themed for the new hot tub addition like Wave Race 64, Super Mario Sunshine, and Pool Paradise.

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Fidget Clicker Becomes Miniature Game Console

Fidget toys are everywhere these days. A particularly popular type simply puts some keyboard switches on a plate to provide a certain type of clicky satisfaction. [wjddnjsdnd] took that concept a step further, building a keychain-sized fidget toy that actually has games on it.

The build is based around six key switches in a 2 x 3 array. The key switches are notable in this case for being magnetic shaft keys. Rather than using a mechanical switch to indicate a keypress, the keycap instead merely moves a magnet which triggers a signal in a hall effect sensor beneath the key. In this case, the build uses A3144 hall effect sensors, which are read by the Arduino Nano running the show. The Nano is also hooked up to a small SSD1306 OLED display over I2c, which it uses for displaying the game state. There’s also a TP4056 module to handle charging the attached 380 mAh lithium-ion battery which powers the pocket-sized device.

The Arduino Nano is not a powerful platform for gaming, but it can handle the basics. The Gamebox Clicker, as it’s called, features a Pong clone, a stairs game, and a recreation of Snake. Think early mobile phone games, and you’d be on the money.

It’s an interesting build, and one that would be a great way to get used to using magnetic key switches as well as small embedded displays. We’ve seen Arduino boards turned into microconsoles many times before, too. If you’d like to sound off about magnetic vs. mechanical key switches, jump into the comments, or otherwise let us know about your best electronic fidget projects on the tipsline. Happy hacking.