A New Case And Keyboard For The Timex Sinclair 1000

The Timex Sinclair 1000 was a sleek and compact machine, and the US counterpart to the more well-known Spectrum ZX-81. Timex may not have come to dominate the computer market, but the machine still has its fans today, with [skidlz] being one of them. That inspired them to craft a new case and keyboard for their beloved machine, putting a slimline twist on the old classic.

The new case finds some economies of size by eliminating the bulky RF modulator in favor of hacking in a cleaner composite out feed. In turn, this enabled the elimination of the channel switch that freed up more room. [skidlz] then designed a simple case using 2D laser-cut parts and dovetail joints, using superglue to assemble the individual pieces into a cohesive whole.

Meanwhile, the keyboard swap is obvious to anyone that ever used one of these things. The original was particularly unpleasant. In order to upgrade, [skidlz] decided to look to the compact Redragon K603 as an inspiration, giving the new build a longer travel and a nicer mechanical feel under one’s fingers.

The final result look great, and files are on Github for the curious. We’ve seen great work from [skidlz] before, too, in the form of this microcassette storage project. Meanwhile, if you’ve been cooking up your own retrocomputing projects, don’t hesitate to let us know!

Electroplating DIY PCB Vias At Home Without Chemical Baths

Although DIY PCB making has made great strides since the early days of chemical etching, there’s one fly in the ointment: vias. These connect individual layers of the board with a conductive tube, and are essential for dual-layer PCBs, never mind boards with a larger layer stack. The industry standard way of producing them is rather cumbersome and doesn’t scale well to a hobby or prototyping context. Might there be a better way? This is the question that [Levi Janssen] set out to answer with a new home PCB manufacturing project.

The goal here is to still electroplate the vias as with the commercial solution, just without having to use chemical baths. This way it should be suitable for an automated setup, with a tool head that performs the coating of the via with a high-resistance conductive ink before the electroplating step, all without submerging the entire PCB. After an initial experiment showed promising results, [Levi] committed to a full prototype.

This turned out to be a bridge too far, so the prototype was scaled down to a simpler machine. This is where the main issue with electroplating one via at a time became clear, as a standard 0.3 mm via takes easily 10 minutes to electroplate, even with an increase in voltage. At that point ordering a PCB from China becomes the faster option if you have enough vias in the design. Fortunately [Levi] figures he may have some solutions there, so we’ll have to wait and see what those are in the next installment. The video is below the break.

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Automating The Process Of Drawing With Chalk

Chalk is fun to draw with, and some people even get really good at using it to make art on the sidewalk. If you don’t like tediously developing such skills, though, you could go another route. [MrDadVs] built a robot to scrawl chalk pictures for him, and the results speak for themselves.

The robot is known as AP for reasons you’ll have to watch the video to understand. You might be imagining a little rover that crawls around on wheels dotting at the pavement with a stick of chalk, but the actual design is quite different. Instead, [MrDadVs] effectively built a polar-coordinate plotter to make chalk pictures on the ground. AP has a arm loaded with a custom liquid chalk delivery system for marking the pavement. It’s rotated by a stepper motor with the aid of a 3D-printed geartrain that helps give it enough torque. It’s controlled by an ESP32 running the FluidNC software which is a flexible open-source CNC firmware. [MrDadVs] does a great job of explaining how everything works together, from converting cartesian coordinates into a polar format, to getting the machine to work wirelessly.

Building a capable sidewalk chalk robot seems like a great way to spend six months. Particularly when it can draw this well. Video after the break.

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Why Not Build Your Quadcopter Around An Evaluation Board?

Quadcopters are flying machines. Traditionally, that would mean you’d optimize the design for lightweight and minimum drag, and you’d do everything in a neat and tidy fashion. The thing is, brushless motors and lithium batteries are so power-dense that you really needn’t try so hard. A great example of that is this barebones quadcopter build from [hebel23] all the way back in 2015.

The build is based around the STM32F4 Discovery Board, which [hebel23] scored as a giveaway at Electronica in Munich way back when. It’s plopped on top of a bit of prototyping board so it can be hooked up to the four controllers driving the motors at each corner. The frame of the quadcopter similarly uses cheap material, in the form of alloy profiles left over from an old screen door. Other equipment onboard includes a GY-273 electronic compass module, a MPU6050 3-axis gyroscope and accelerometer to keep the thing on the straight and level, and the Fly Sky R9B RC receiver for controlling the thing.

It might look crude, but it gets off the ground just fine. We’ve seen quadcopters using the STM32 in more recent years with more refined designs, but there’s something amusingly elegant about lacing one together with an evaluation board and some protoboard in the middle. If you’re working on your own flying projects, don’t hesitate to notify the tipsline!

Winter-Proof (And Improve) Your Resin 3D Printing

Was your 3D printer working fine over the summer, and now it’s not? With colder temperatures comes an overall surge in print failure reports — particularly with resin-based printers that might reside in outbuildings, basements, or garages. If you think this applies to you, don’t miss [Jan Mrázek]’s tips on improving cold-weather print results. His tips target the main reasons prints fail, helping to make the process a little more resilient overall. [Jan]’s advice is the product of long experience and experimentation, so don’t miss out.

With environmental changes comes the possibility that things change just enough to interfere with layers forming properly. The most beneficial thing overall is to maintain a consistent resin temperature; between 22 and 30 degrees Celsius is optimal. A resin heater is one solution, and there are many DIY options using simple parts. Some of the newer (and more expensive) printers have heaters built in, but most existing hobbyist machines do not.

An extreme case of blooming.

Temperature control isn’t the only thing, either. Layer formation and build plate adhesion can all be improved by adding rest times between layers. Yes, this increases print time. It also allows resin to settle before the next layer, improving adhesion and preventing blooming (a rough texture caused by an imperfect cure.) Since resin flows less readily at lower temperatures, rest times can help improve results. The best setting depends heavily on your particular setup, so [Jan] gives tips on finding optimal rest times.

Most common knowledge and advice from well-meaning communities online focuses on increasing exposure time or blaming the build plate. [Jan] feels that these are ultimately the wrong way to go about addressing failures. Usually, an environmental change (like the arrival of winter) has simply pushed a printer that was not optimized in the first place outside of its narrow comfort zone. A little optimization can set things back on track, making the printer more resilient and reliable overall.

Hackaday Podcast Episode 306: Bambu Hacks, AI Strikes Back, John Deere Gets Sued, And All About Capacitors

It was Dan and Elliot behind the microphones today for a transatlantic look at the week in hacks. There was a bucket of news about AI, kicked off by Deepseek suddenly coming into the zeitgeist and scaring the pants off investors for… reasons? No matter, we’re more interested in the tech anyway, such as a deep dive into deep space communications from a backyard antenna farm that’s carefully calibrated to give the HOA fits. We got down and dirty with capacitors, twice even, and looked at a clever way to stuff two websites into one QR code. It’s all Taylor, all the time on every channel of the FM band, which we don’t recommend you do (for multiple reasons) but it’s nice to know you can. Plus, great kinetic art project, but that tooling deserves a chef’s kiss. Finally, we wrap up with our Can’t Miss articles where Jenny roots for the right to repair, and Al gives us the finger(1).

Download the zero-calorie MP3.

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Ancient Pocket Computer Gets A USB-C Upgrade

Remember the ZEOS Pocket PC? Perhaps you knew it as the Tidalwave PS-1000. Either way, it was a small clamshell computing device that was first released all the way back in 1992, and perhaps most accurately known as a DOS-based palmtop. Over at [Robert’s Retro] on YouTube, one of these fine devices was put through a repair and a modern upgrade program.

[Robert] educates us on the basics of the machine as he sets about the routine repairs so familiar to anyone in the retrocomputing scene. The first order of business is to clean up the damage to the battery compartment, which had suffered corrosion from leaking AA batteries. We get a solid look inside, and a walk-through on how to modify the device to run off USB-C power. It’s as simple as wiring up a small power module PCB and integrating that into the case, but it’s a neat mod done well—and it makes toying with the device much easier in 2025.

[Robert] has a cause he’s pursuing, though, when it comes to these old palmtops. He’s trying to identify the name of the oddball connectors these things used for the parallel and serial interfaces, and ideally, a source for the same. If you’ve got a tip on that, drop it in the comments.

Funnily enough, these things were cloned like crazy back in the day, so you might even find one under another name in your retro travels. They might be old, but somehow, it’s impossible for a piece of tech to feel old when you’re hooking it up with a USB-C port. We’ve featured [Robert’s] work before, too!

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