Over-molding Wires With Hot Glue And 3D Printed Molds

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: water always finds a way in. That’s particularly problematic for things like wire splices in damp environments, something that no amount of electrical tape is going to help. Heat shrink tubing might be your friend here, but for an electrically isolated and mechanically supported repair, you may want to give over-molding with a hot glue gun a try.

The inspiration for [Print Practical]’s foray into over-molding came from a video that’s making the rounds showing a commercially available tool for protecting spliced wires in the automotive repair trade. It consists of a machined aluminum mold that the spliced wires fit into and a more-or-less stock hot glue gun, which fills the mold with melted plastic. [Print Practical] thought it just might be possible to 3D print custom molds at home and do it himself.

His first attempt didn’t go so well. As it turns out, hot glue likes to stick to things — who knew? — including the PETG mold he designed. Trying to pry apart the mold after injection was a chore, and even once he got inside it was clear the glue much preferred to stay in the mold. Round two went much better — same wire, same mold, but now with a thin layer of vegetable oil to act as a release agent. That worked like a charm, with the over-mold standing up to a saltwater bath with no signs of leaking. [Print Practical] also repaired an iPhone cable that has seen better days, providing much-needed mechanical support for a badly frayed section.

This looks like a fantastic idea to file away for the future, and one that’s worth experimenting with. Other filament types might make a mold better able to stand up to the hot glue, and materials other than the ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer found in most hot glue sticks might be explored. TPU over-molds, anyone? Or perhaps you can use a printer as an injector rather than the glue gun.

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Programming Tiny Blinkenlight Projects With Light

[mitxela] has a tiny problem, literally: some of his projects are so small as to defy easy programming. While most of us would probably solve the problem of having no physical space on a board to mount a connector with WiFi or Bluetooth, he took a different path and gave this clever light-based programming interface a go.

Part of the impetus for this approach comes from some of the LED-centric projects [mitxela] has tackled lately, particularly wearables such as his LED matrix earrings or these blinky industrial piercings. Since LEDs can serve as light sensors, albeit imperfect ones, he explored exactly how to make the scheme work.

For initial experiments he wisely chose his larger but still diminutive LED matrix badge, which sports a CH32V003 microcontroller, an 8×8 array of SMD LEDs, and not much else. The video below is a brief summary of the effort, while the link above provides a much more detailed account of the proceedings, which involved a couple of false starts and a lot of prototyping that eventually led to dividing the matrix in two and ganging all the LEDs in each half into separate sensors. This allows [mitxela] to connect each side of the array to the two inputs of an op-amp built into the CH32V003, making a differential sensor that’s less prone to interference from room light. A smartphone app alternately flashes two rectangles on and off with the matrix lying directly on the screen to send data to the badge — at a low bitrate, to be sure, but it’s more than enough to program the badge in a reasonable amount of time.

We find this to be an extremely clever way to leverage what’s already available and make a project even better than it was. Here’s hoping it spurs new and even smaller LED projects in the future.

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Undersea Cable Repair

The bottom of the sea is a mysterious and inaccessible place, and anything unfortunate enough to slip beneath the waves and into the briny depths might as well be on the Moon. But the bottom of the sea really isn’t all that far away. The average depth of the ocean is only about 3,600 meters, and even at its deepest, the bottom is only about 10 kilometers away, a distance almost anyone could walk in a couple of hours.

Of course, the problem is that the walk would be straight down into one of the most inhospitable environments our planet has to offer. Despite its harshness, that environment is home to hundreds of undersea cables, all of which are subject to wear and tear through accidents and natural causes. Fixing broken undersea cables quickly and efficiently is a highly specialized field, one that takes a lot of interesting engineering and some clever hacks to pull off.

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Junk Bin Build Lets You Test Fuel Injectors On The Cheap

Fiddle around with cars long enough and you’ll realize two things: first, anything beyond the simplest repairs will probably require some kind of specialized tool, and second, those tools can be prohibitively expensive. That doesn’t mean you’re out of luck, though, especially if you’ve got scrap galore and a DIY spirit, as this junk bin fuel injector test stand ably demonstrates.

[Desert Rat Racer]’s test rig is designed to support four injectors at once and to test them under conditions as close as possible to what they’ll experience when installed. To that end, [Rat] mounted a junk intake manifold to a stand made from scrap wood and metal found by the side of the road. A pickle jar serves as a reservoir for the test fluid — he wisely used mineral spirits as a safer substitute for gasoline — and a scrap electric fuel pump pressurizes a junk fuel rail, which distributes fuel to the injectors under test.

For testing, the injectors are wired up to an electric injector tester, which is one of the few off-the-shelf components in the build. The fuel pump and injectors are powered by the 12 volt rail of a scrapped PC power supply. Just being able to watch the spray pattern is often enough to find a faulty injector, but in case a more quantitative test is indicated, each injector is positioned over a cheap glass cylinder to catch the test fluid, and scraps of a tape measure are used to measure the depth of the collected fluid. No fancy — and expensive — graduated cylinders required.

While we truly respect the hackiness of [Desert Rat Racer]’s build, the concept of avoiding buying tactical tools is foreign to us. We understand the logic of not dropping a ton on a single-use tool, but where’s the fancy blow-molded plastic case?

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Hackaday Links: July 28, 2024

What is this dystopia coming to when one of the world’s largest tech companies can’t find a way to sufficiently monetize a nearly endless stream of personal data coming from its army of high-tech privacy-invading robots? To the surprise of almost nobody, Amazon is rolling out a paid tier to their Alexa service in an attempt to backfill the $25 billion hole the smart devices helped dig over the last few years. The business model was supposed to be simple: insinuate an always-on listening device into customers’ lives to make it as easy as possible for them to instantly gratify their need for the widgets and whatsits that Amazon is uniquely poised to deliver, collecting as much metadata along the way as possible; multiple revenue streams — what could go wrong? Apparently a lot, because the only thing people didn’t do with Alexa was order stuff. Now Amazon is reportedly seeking an additional $10 a month for the improved AI version of Alexa, which will be on top of the ever-expanding Amazon Prime membership fee, currently at an eye-watering $139 per year. Whether customers bite or not remains to be seen, but we think there might be a glut of Echo devices on the second-hand market in the near future. We hate to say we told you so, but — ah, who are we kidding? We love to say we told you so.

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Hacking An IoT Camera Reveals Hard-Coded Root Password

Hacking — at least the kind where you’re breaking into stuff — is very much a learn-by-doing skill. There’s simply no substitute for getting your hands dirty and just trying something. But that doesn’t mean you can’t learn something by watching, with this root password exploit on a cheap IP video camera being a good look at the basics.

By way of background on this project, [Matt Brown] had previously torn into a VStarcam CB73 security camera, a more or less generic IP camera that he picked up on the cheap, and identified a flash memory chip from which he extracted the firmware. His initial goal was to see if the camera was contacting sketchy servers, and while searching the strings for the expected unsavory items, he found hard-coded IP addresses plus confirmation that the camera was running some Linux variant.

With evidence of sloppy coding practices, [Matt] set off on a search for a hard-coded root password. The second video covers this effort, which started with finding UART pins and getting a console session. Luckily, the bootloader wasn’t locked, which allowed [Matt] to force the camera to boot into a shell session and find the root password hash. With no luck brute-forcing the hash, he turned to Ghidra to understand the structure of a suspicious program in the firmware called encoder. After a little bit of poking and some endian twiddling, he was able to identify the hard-coded root password for every camera made by this outfit, and likely others as well.

Granted, the camera manufacturer made this a lot easier than it should have been, but with a lot of IoT stuff similarly afflicted by security as an afterthought, the skills on display here are probably broadly applicable. Kudos to [Matt] for the effort and the clear, concise presentation that makes us want to dig into the junk bin and get hacking.

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Tiny Games Challenge: A Retro Racing Game On A 16×2 LCD

Sometimes, all it takes is a change in perspective to take something boring and make it fun. That’s true about 16×2 LCD; in its usual landscape format, it’s a quick and easy way to provide a character-based display for a project. But flip it 90 degrees and use a little imagination, and it can become a cool retro racing game that fits in the palm of your hand.

[arduinocelantano] has made it a habit to press the humble 16×2 character LCD into service in ways it clearly wasn’t intended to support, such as playing Space Invaders and streaming video on it. Both of these projects seem to inform the current work, which was one of the first entries in our current Tiny Games Challenge contest. The racing game requires multiple sprites to animate the roadway and the cars, using six “layers” of eight custom characters and rapidly switching between them to create the appearance of movement. The video below has a brief sample of gameplay.

Flipping the display on its side makes for a somewhat limited game — it’s all straightaway, all the time — but that could probably be fixed. [arduinocelentano] suggests scaling it up to a 16×4 to include curves, but we’d bet you could still simulate curves on the upper part of the game field while leaving the player’s car fixed on a straight section. Higher difficulties could be achieved by moving the curved section closer to the player’s position.

Sure, it’s limited, but that’s half the charm of games like these. If you’ve got an idea for our Tiny Games Challenge, head over to our contest page and let us know about it. We’re keen to see what you come up with.

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