Can You 3D Print A Pinball Machine That’s Fun To Play?

April 28, 2026 by Maya Posch 1 Comment

It seems fair to say that pinball machines are among the most universally loved gaming systems known today, yet the full-sized ones are both very expensive and very large, while even the good quality table-sized ones tend to be on the expensive side. That raises the question of whether a fully 3D printed pinball machine could at all be fun and not just feel like a cheapo toy? A recent video by [Steven] from [3D Printer Academy] on YouTube makes here a compelling argument that it might actually be worth something to consider.

In addition to being fully modular and customizable the most compelling element is probably that the design supports two- and four-player multiplayer. This sees the metal balls leaving at the rear and from there entering the playing field of another player’s machine, which can probably get pretty chaotic.

Unfortunately this is part of a Kickstarter campaign, so you’ll have to either shell out some cash to get access to the print files or DIY your own version. We’d also be remiss to not address the durability concerns of a 100% plastic pinball machine like this, plus the lack of serious heft to compensate for more enthusiastic playing styles.

If you are more into traditional DIY pinball machines, we have covered these as well, along with small screen-based machines, and their miniature brethren for when space is really at a premium.

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New Slicer Enables Horizontal Overhangs Without Support

April 28, 2026 by Zoe Skyforest 12 Comments

There’s a rule of thumb when it comes to FDM printing that overhangs are really only possible to an angle of around 45 degrees or so. If you try to squirt out plastic with nothing supporting it, it just goes everywhere. However, a new slicer hopes to enable printing up to 90-degree overhangs with some creative techniques.

The software that enables this is called WaveOverhangs, and currently exists as a fork of OrcaSlicer. The idea is straightforward enough — using unique toolpathing to create rings of deposited material that fasten to those laid down before them in the same layer. Thus as the printer lays down a layer into bare space, the deposited plastic is, ideally, able to fix on to the supported edge. As the next ring is laid down, it grabs on to the cooled ring laid down before it, and so on. The idea is inspired by wave propagation, hence the name. You can see a demonstration of the software in the video below by [Cocoanix 3D Printing].

It’s still a very new technique. The slicer has a whole bunch of knobs to turn and two different algorithms. Get the settings just right and you can print horizontal overhangs successfully. There aren’t exactly presets yet, this is something to explore with trial and error. If you test it out, don’t forget to upload your results to the Community Gallery so the developers can see what works and what doesn’t.

We’ve explored how smart slicers can do amazing things before, too, particularly when it comes to things like bridging.

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The Challenges Of 3D Printing Reliable Springs

April 27, 2026 by Maya Posch 17 Comments

Springs are great, but making them out of plastic tends to come with some downsides, for fairly obvious reasons. Creating a compliant mechanism that can be 3D printed and yet which doesn’t permanently deform or wear out after a few uses is therefore a bit of a struggle. The compliant toggle mechanism that [neotoy] designed is said to have addressed those issues, with the model available on Printables for anyone to give a shake.

The model in question is a toggle, which is the commonly seen plastic or metal device that clamps down on e.g. rope or cord and requires you to push on it to have it release said clamping force. Normally these use a metal spring inside, but this version is fully 3D printable and thus forms a practical way to test this particular compliant mechanism with a variety of materials.

The internal spring is a printed spiral spring, with the example in the video printed in PETG. You can of course also print it in other materials for different durability and springiness properties. As noted in the video, PLA makes for a very poor spring material, so you probably want to skip that one.

We covered compliant mechanisms in the past for purposes like blasters, including some that you can only see under a microscope.

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Slicer Settings For “Indestructible” Battle-Bot Worthy PLA Parts

April 25, 2026 by Tyler August 15 Comments

If you follow [Maker’s Muse] on YouTube, you know he’s as passionate about robot fights these days as he is about the tools he uses to make the robots. Luckily for us, he’s still got fame as a 3D printing YouTuber, as this has given him the platform to share his trade secrets for strong, robot-combat-worthy prints.

He fights robots in a ‘plastic ant-weight’ division, which restricts not only the weight of the robot but also the materials used. Not only must they be primarily plastic, but only certain plastics are allowed: PLA is in, but engineering filaments, Nylon, and TPU are out. Since necessity is the mother of invention, this has led to strong evolutionary pressure to figure out how to print the most impact-resilient PLA parts for armor and spinners.

He’s using the latest OrcaSlicer and shares the profile as a pay-what-you-want 3MF file. It’s all about solidity: a solid part with solidly fused walls and solidly linked layers. It makes sense: if you’re going to be hammering on or with these parts, you don’t want any internal voids that could either collapse or pull open.

The infill density is obviously 100%, and you’ll want a concentric pattern — this makes it look like you’re just printing walls, but it allows you to use another trick. To make sure those walls don’t all align, creating a potential weakness, OrcaSlicer’s “alternate extra wall” will put one extra wall every second layer. The extra wall causes the infill pattern to stagger and lock together.

Also helping lock it together, he’s playing with extrusion widths, with the suggested rule-of-thumb being the line width on the walls be one-half that of the internal fill — and as wide as possible. In his case, with a 0.4 mm nozzle, that means 0.4 mm wide walls and 0.8 mm for the infill. OrcaSlicer 2.3.2 also lets you play with specific flow ratios, allowing you to overextrude only the internals for strength, without overextruding on the walls and potentially ruining dimensional accuracy. He also irons all top surfaces, but admits that that’s mostly about aesthetics. The iron may make those layers a little bit stronger, though, so why not?

Would brick layers make these parts even stronger? That’s very likely; [Maker’s Muse] mentions them in the video but does not use them because they’re not implemented in-slicer, and he wants something accessible to all. On the other hand, this post-processing script seems accessible enough for our crowd.

This video/profile is exclusively about fully-solid parts. When you want strong parts that aren’t fully solid, it looks like the answer is walls.

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Spool Roller Gets Touch Screen

April 24, 2026 by Al Williams 2 Comments

If you have a desktop 3D printer, you probably want something to hang filament spools on. [LVTRC] has a spool roller that fits the bill. It also incorporates a scale and a round touch screen. (Google Translate)

We’ve seen those round screens before, and now we wonder why we didn’t think of this. The GC9A01 display shows a progress ring and lets you save settings or calibrations to EEPROM. An Arduino Nano provides the brain, and the load cell connects to an HX711. The project is made to fit a specific printer, but it should be little trouble to adapt it to a different printer or to mount it in an external mount.

One of the calibration steps, of course, is to program the weight of an empty spool to subtract from the total weight. The device can store up to five specific profiles.

Not the biggest spool holder we’ve seen. We keep thinking that we don’t know why we want a circular screen, and then someone always drops in to show us another thing we didn’t think about.

A Look At Full Spectrum 3D Printing

April 15, 2026 by Al Williams 12 Comments

Many modern desktop 3D printers include the ability to print in multiple colors. However, this typically only works with a few colors at a time, and the more colors you can use, the higher the machine’s cost and complexity. However, a recent technique allows printers to mix new colors by overlaying thin sheets of different filaments. [YGK3D] looks at how it works in a recent video.

In the early days of 3D printing, there were several competing approaches. You could have separate extruders, each with a different color. Some designs used a single extruder and switched between different filaments on demand. Others melted different filaments together in the hot end.

One advantage of the hotends that melted different materials is that you could make different colors by adjusting the feed rates of the plastics. However, that has its own problems with maintaining flow rate, and you can’t really use multiple material types. But using single or multiple hotends that take one filament at a time means you can only handle as many colors as you have filaments. You can’t mix, say, white and black to get gray.

Using Full Spectrum, you can define virtual filaments, and the software figures out how to approximate the color you want by using thin layers of different colors. The results are amazing. While this technically could work on any printer, in reality, a filament-switching printer will create a ton of waste to mix colors, and a single-filament machine will drive you batty manually swapping filament.

So you probably really need a tool changer and translucent plastic. You can see the difference in the test article when using opaque filament vs translucent ones. At low layer heights, four filament colors can give you 39 different colors. At more common layer heights, you may have to settle for 24 different colors.

One issue is that the top and bottom surfaces don’t color well. However, a new plugin that adds texture to the surfaces may help overcome that problem.

We looked at Full Spectrum earlier, but development continues. If you are still trying to get a handle on your filament-switching printer, we can help.

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Flattening The Exhaust Of A Laser Cutter To Save Space

April 14, 2026 by Maya Posch 9 Comments

From laser cutters to 3D printers, having an exhaust duct at the back of a machine is a very common sight. However, these tend to be rather bulky, claiming many centimeters of precious space behind a machine even if you’d want to push it right up against a wall. This issue annoyed [TheNeedleStacker] over on YouTube so much that he had a poke at solving this problem with angled exhaust ducts, all hopefully without impairing its basic function.

Smoke machine and laser for some air ducting rave vibes. (Credit: TheNeedleStacker, YouTube) — Smoke machine and laser for some air ducting rave vibes.

Although there are some online offerings for angled exhaust port extenders, these do not quite fit the required 6″ diameter. Reducing the problem to just a matter of cross section area for simplicity’s sake, that means a 19″ wide duct at a depth of 1.5″. Making sure the transition from the tube to the flat duct doesn’t become an impediment is the tricky part, so the approach here was to mostly ignore it and just make a functional prototype to get an idea of how a direct approach worked.

Installing the contraption worked out fine, and subsequent testing showed that although it seems to slightly reduce the effective airflow compared to the flex tubing, it is absolutely rad to look at with the transparent cover and some laser light to illuminate all that’s happening inside.

While some optimization work on the duct transitions can undoubtedly eke out more performance, it’s certainly not bad for a quick project.

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