Biting Off More Than I Can Chew

Earlier this year, I bought one of those K40-style laser machines that was listed at a ridiculously low price, and it arrived broken. Well, let me qualify that: the laser tube and the power supply work perfectly, but that’s about the best you can say about it.

On first power-up, it made a horrible noise, the Y-axis was jammed, the X-axis was so off-square that it was visibly apparent, and it turned out that as I fixed one of these problems after the other, that it was just the tip of the iceberg. The Y-axis was jammed because the belts were so tight that they made the motor bind. Replacing them, because they were simply too short, got the stage moving, but it didn’t engage the endstops. Fixing those revealed that the motor was stepped wrong, and flipping the pins in the connector finally got it homing in the right direction. Full disassembly and reassembly steps required at each stage here.

The X-axis just needed adjustment, but the opto on its endstop had been completely crushed by a previous failed homing, and I had to desolder and resolder in a new one. (Keep your junkbox well stocked!) With the machine working, it became obvious that the driver board was barely usable. It accelerates horribly jerkily, which makes the motors skip and stall. It had to be run artificially slowly because it couldn’t make the corners. So I put in a new motor controller board that handles Gcode and does legitimate acceleration ramps.

Movement mostly fixed, it was time to align the laser. Of course, the optical path is all messed up, they forgot the o-ring that holds the focusing lens in place, and the thing keeps powering down randomly. This turns out to be because of the aiming red laser pointer, which has a positive case, which is shorting through the single wrap of electrical tape that “insulates” it from the machine’s frame. When this shorts, the motor driver board browns out. Lovely!

Once I was finally able to start aligning the beam, I discovered that the frame is warped out of plane. The simple solution is to take it all apart again and shim it until it’s flat, but I just haven’t had the time yet. I’m not beaten, but it’s been eating up hours after hours on the weekends, and that time is scarce.

I love DIY, and I love taking a machine apart in order to understand it. Once. But I’m now on my tenth or twelfth unmounting of the motion stage, and frankly, it’s no fun any more. It would have been quicker, if maybe not cheaper, to have built this machine entirely from scratch. At least for the moment, I’ve bitten off more than I have time to chew.

Reviving A Maplin 4600 DIY Synthesizer From The 1970s

A piece of musical history is the Maplin 4600, a DIY electronic music synthesizer from the 1970s. The design was published in an Australian electronics magazine and sold as a DIY kit, and [LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER] got his hands on an original Maplin 4600 that he refurbishes and puts through its paces.

Inserting conductive pegs is how the operator connects different inputs and outputs.

The Maplin 4600 is a (mostly) analog device with a slightly intimidating-looking layout. It features multiple oscillators, mixers, envelope generators, filters, and a complex-looking patch bay on the right hand side that is reminiscent of a breadboard. By inserting conductive pins, one can make connections between various inputs and outputs.

Internally the different features and circuits are mostly unconnected from one another by default, so the patch board is how the instrument is “programmed” and the connections made can be quite complex. The 4600 is one of a few synthesizer designs by [Trevor Marshall], who has some additional details about on his website.

The video (embedded below) is a complete walk-through of the unit, including its history, quirks, and design features. If you’d like to skip directly to a hands-on demonstrating how it works, that begins around the 10:15 mark.

Synthesizers have a rich DIY history and it’s fascinating to see an in-depth look at this one. And hey, if you like your synths complex and intimidating, do yourself a favor and check out the Starship One.

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DIY Open-Source Star Tracker Gets You Those Great Night Shots

What does one do when frustrated at the lack of affordable, open source portable trackers? If you’re [OG-star-tech], you design your own and give it modular features that rival commercial offerings while you’re at it.

What’s a star tracker? It’s a method of determining position based on visible stars, but when it comes to astrophotography the term refers to a sort of hardware-assisted camera holder that helps one capture stable long-exposure images. This is done by moving the camera in such a way as to cancel out the effects of the Earth’s rotation. The result is long-exposure photographs without the stars smearing themselves across the image.

Interested? Learn more about the design by casting an eye over the bill of materials at the GitHub repository, browsing the 3D-printable parts, and maybe check out the assembly guide. If you like what you see, [OG-star-tech] says you should be able to build your own very affordably if you don’t mind 3D printing parts in ASA or ABS. Prefer to buy a kit or an assembled unit? [OG-star-tech] offers them for sale.

Frustration with commercial offerings (or lack thereof) is a powerful motive to design something or contribute to an existing project, and if it leads to more people enjoying taking photos of the night sky and all the wonderful things in it, so much the better.

MIT Demonstrates Fully 3D Printed, Active Electronic Components

One can 3D print with conductive filament, and therefore plausibly create passive components like resistors. But what about active components, which typically require semiconductors? Researchers at MIT demonstrate working concepts for a resettable fuse and logic gates, completely 3D printed and semiconductor-free.

Now just to be absolutely clear — these are still just proofs of concept. To say they are big and perform poorly compared to their semiconductor equivalents would be an understatement. But they do work, and they are 100% 3D printed active electronic components, using commercially-available filament.

How does one make a working resettable fuse and transistor out of such stuff? By harnessing thermal expansion, essentially.

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RGB LED Display Simply Solves The Ping-Pong Ball Problem

A few years ago [Brian McCafferty] created a nice big RGB LED panel in a poster frame that aimed to be easy to move, program, and display. We’d like to draw particular attention to one of his construction methods. On the software end of things there are multiple ways to get images onto a DIY RGB panel, but his assembly technique is worth keeping in mind.

The diameter of ping pong balls is a mismatch for the spacing of LEDs on a strip. The solution? A bit of force.

The technique we want to highlight is not the fact that he used table tennis balls as the diffusers, but rather the particular manner in which he used them. As diffusers, ping-pong balls are economical and they’re effective. But you know what else they are? An inconvenient size!

An LED strip with 30 LEDs per meter puts individual LEDs about 33 mm apart. A regulation ping-pong ball is 40 mm in diameter, making them just a wee bit too big to fit nicely. We’ve seen projects avoid this problem with modular frames that optimize spacing and layout. But [Brian]’s solution was simply to use force.

Observing that ping-pong balls don’t put up much of a fight and the size mismatch was relatively small, he just shoved those (slightly squashy) 40 mm globes into 33 mm spacing. It actually looks… perfectly fine!

We suspect that this method doesn’t scale indefinitely. Probably large displays like this 1200 pixel wall are not the right place to force a square peg into a round hole, but it sure seemed to hit the spot for his poster-sized display. Watch it in action in the video below, or see additional details on the project’s GitHub repository.

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Turning A Lada Into An EV With 50 Cordless Drills, Because Why Not?

[Garage 54] is no stranger to vehicle-related projects of the “because why not?” variety, and their latest is using 50 cordless drills combined into a monstrous mega-motor to turn a gutted (and extended) Lada into an electric vehicle (EV).

Doing this leans on some of [Garage 54]’s earlier projects, such as replacing the aforementioned Lada’s engine block with a frame containing sixteen chainsaws. That means they don’t need to start completely from scratch, and have a frame design that can drop into the vehicle once the “engine” is constructed.

Fifty cordless drills won’t set any efficiency records for EV engines, but it’s got a certain style.

Here’s what’s in the new engine: each of the drills has its chuck replaced with an aluminum pulley, and belts connect each group of drills to an output shaft. Ideally, every drill motor would run at the same time and at exactly the same speed, but one works with what they have. [Garage 54] originally worked to synchronize the drills by interfacing to each drill’s motor control board, but eventually opted to simply bypass all controls and power each drill’s motor directly from the batteries. Initial tests are done by touching bare cable ends with a turned-away face and squinted eyes, but we expect “Just A Big Switch” to end up in the final assembly.

It looks wild and we can think of more than a few inefficiencies present in a system like this, but the output shaft does turn and torque is being transferred, so the next step is interfacing to the car’s factory gearbox.

If it powers the car in any meaningful way, that Lada might very well become the world’s most gloriously hacked-together EV. And hey, if the power output of the EV motor is disappointing, you can just make your own.

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Hacker Tools, Hacked Tools

We just love a good DIY tool project, and more so when it’s something that we can actually use cobbled together from stuff in our closet, or hacked out of cheap “toys”. This week we saw both a superb Pi Pico-based logic analyzer and yet another software frontend for the RTL-SDR dongle, and they both had us thinking of how good we have it.

If you don’t already have a logic analyzer, or if you have one of those super-cheap 8-channel jobbies, it might be worth your while to check out the Pico firmware simply because it gets you 24 channels, which is more than you’ll ever need™. At the low price of $4, maybe a little more if you need to add level shifters to the circuit to allow for 5 V inputs, you could do a lot worse for less than the price of a fancy sweet coffee beverage.

And the RTL dongle; don’t get us started on this marvel of radio hacking. If you vaguely have interest in RF, it’s the most amazing bargain, and ever-improving software just keeps adding functionality. The post above adds HTML5 support for the RTL-SDR, allowing you to drive it with code you host on a web page, which makes the entire experience not only cheap, but painless. Talk about a gateway drug! If you don’t have an RTL-SDR, just go out and buy one. Trust me.

What both of these hacker tools have in common, of course, is good support by a bunch of free and open software that makes them do what they do. This software enables a very simple piece of hardware to carry out what used to be high-end lab equipment functions, for almost nothing. This has an amazing democratizing effect, and paves the way for the next generation of projects and hackers. I can’t think of a better way to spend $20.