This Front Panel Makes Its Own Clean-Edged Drill Guides

March 30, 2026 by Donald Papp 8 Comments

We haven’t seen an instrument panel quite like [bluesyann]’s, which was made by curing UV resin directly onto plywood with the help of a 3D printer and a bit of software work. The result is faintly-raised linework that also makes hand drilling holes both cleaner and more accurate.

The process begins by designing the 2D layout in Inkscape, which has the advantage of letting one work in 1:1 dimensions. A 10 mm diameter circle will print as 10 mm; a nice advantage when designing for physical components. After making the layout one uses OpenSCAD to import the .svg and turn it into a 3D model that’s 0.5 mm tall. That 3D model gets loaded into the resin printer, and the goal is to put it directly onto a sheet of plywood.

A little donut shape makes a drill centering feature, and the surrounding ring keeps the edges of the hole clean.

To do that, [bluesyann] sticks the plywood directly onto the 3D printer’s build platform with double-sided tape. With the plywood taking the place of the usual build surface, the printer can cure resin directly onto its surface. Cleanup still involves washing uncured resin off the board, but it’s nothing a soak in isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush can’t take care of.

[bluesyann] has a few tips for getting the best results, and one of our favorites is a way to make drilling holes easier and cleaner. Marking the center of a drill hit with a small donut-shaped feature makes a fantastic centering guide, making hand drilling much more accurate. And adding a thick ring around the drill hole ensures clean edges with no stray wood fibers, so no post-drilling cleanup required. Don’t want the ring to stick around after drilling? Just peel it off. There’s a load of other tips too, so be sure to check it out.

A nice front panel really does make a project better, and we’ve seen many different approaches over the years. One can stick laminated artwork onto an enclosure, or one can perform toner transfer onto 3D printed surfaces by putting the design on top of the 3D printer’s build surface, and letting the heat of molten plastic do the work of transferring the toner. And if one should like the idea of a plywood front panel but balk at resin printing onto it, old-fashioned toner transfer works great on wood.

Making A Nichrome Wirewound Power Resistor

March 28, 2026 by Maya Posch 19 Comments

Although not really a cost-effective or a required skill unless you have some very specific needs not met by off-the-shelf power resistor options, making your own own wirewound power resistor is definitely educational, as well as a fascinating look at a common part that few people spare a thought on. Cue [TheElectronBench]’s video tutorial on how to make one of these components from scratch.

The resistance value is determined by the length of nichrome wire, which is an alloy of nickel and chromium (NiCr) with a resistivity of around 1.12 µΩ/m. It’s also extremely durable when heated, as it forms a protective outer layer of chromium oxide. This makes it suitable for very high power levels, but also requires the rest of the power resistor assembly to be able to take a similar punishment.

For the inner tube of this DIY power resistor a tube of alumina ceramic was used, around which the nichrome wire is wound. This resistor targets 15 Ohm at a maximum load of 50 Watt, this means a current of about 1.83 A is expected at 27.4 V. The used nichrome wire has a measured resistance of 10.4 Ohm, ergo 1.44 meter has to be cut and wound.

This entire assembly is then embedded in refractory cement (fireproof cement), as this will keep the wire in place, while also able to take the intense temperature cycling during operation. As a bonus this will prevent toasting the surrounding environment too much, never mind lighting things on fire as the nichrome wire heats up.

As explained in the video, this is hardly the only way to create such a power resistor, with multiple types of alternative alloys available, different cores to wind around and various options to embed the assembly. The demonstrated method is however one that should give solid results and be well within the capabilities and budget of a hobbyist.

An important point with nichrome is that you cannot really solder to it, so you’ll need something along the lines of a mechanical (crimping) connection. There are also different winding methods that can affect the inductance of the resistor, since this type of resistor is by its design also a coil. This is however not covered in the video as for most applications it’s not an issue.

Overall, this video tutorial would seem to be a solid introduction to nichrome power resistors, including coverage of many issues you may encounter along the way. Feel free to sound off in the comment section with your own experiences with power resistors, especially if you made them as well.

The Most Secure, Modern Computer Might Be A Mac

March 25, 2026 by Bryan Cockfield 43 Comments

The Linux world is currently seeing an explosion in new users, thanks in large part to Microsoft turning its Windows operating system into the most intrusive piece of spyware in modern computing. For those who value privacy and security, Linux has long been the safe haven where there’s reasonable certainty that the operating system itself isn’t harvesting user data or otherwise snooping where it shouldn’t be. Yet even after solving the OS problem, a deeper issue remains: the hardware itself. Since around 2008, virtually every Intel and AMD processor has included coprocessors running closed-source code known as the Intel Management Engine (IME) or AMD Platform Security Processor (PSP).

These components operate entirely outside the user’s and operating system’s control. They are given privileged access to memory, storage, and networking and can retain that access even when the CPU is not running, creating systemic vulnerabilities that cannot be fully mitigated by software alone. One practical approach to minimizing exposure to opaque management subsystems like the IME or PSP is to use platforms that do not use x86 hardware in the first place. Perhaps surprisingly, the ARM-based Apple M1 and M2 computers offer a compelling option, providing a more constrained and clearly defined trust model for Linux users who prioritize privacy and security.

Before getting into why Apple Silicon can be appealing for those with this concern, we first need to address the elephant in the room: Apple’s proprietary, closed-source operating system. Luckily, the Asahi Linux project has done most of the heavy lifting for those with certain Apple Silicon machines who want to go more open-source. In fact, Asahi is one of the easiest Linux installs to perform today even when compared to beginner-friendly distributions like Mint or Fedora, provided you are using fully supported M1 or M2 machines rather than attempting an install on newer, less-supported models. The installer runs as a script within macOS, eliminating the need to image a USB stick. Once the script is executed, the user simply follows the prompts, restarts the computer, and boots into the new Linux environment. Privacy-conscious users may also want to take a few optional steps, such as verifying the Asahi checksum and encrypting the installation with LUKS but these steps are not too challenging for experienced users. Continue reading “The Most Secure, Modern Computer Might Be A Mac” →

AirTag Has Hole Behind The Battery? It’s Likely Been Silenced

February 17, 2026 by Donald Papp 34 Comments

Apple AirTags have speakers in them, and the speaker is not entirely under the owner’s control. [Shahram] shows how the speaker of an AirTag can be disabled while keeping the device watertight. Because AirTags are not intended to be opened or tampered with, doing so boils down to making a hole in just the right place, as the video demonstrates.

By making a hole in just the right place, the speaker can be disabled while leaving water resistance intact.

How does putting a hole in the enclosure not compromise water resistance? By ensuring the hole is made in an area that is already “inside” the seal. In an AirTag, that seal is integrated into the battery compartment.

Behind the battery, the enclosure has a small area of thinner plastic that sits right above the PCB, and in particular, right above the soldered wire of the speaker. Since this area is “inside” the watertight seal, a hole can be made here without affecting water resistance.

Disabling the speaker consists of melting through that thin plastic with a soldering iron then desoldering the (tiny) wire and using some solder wick to clean up. It’s not the prettiest operation, but there are no components nor any particularly heat-sensitive bits in that spot. The modification has no effect on water resistance, and isn’t even visible unless the battery is removed.

In the video below, [Shahram] uses a second generation AirTag to demonstrate the mod, then shows that the AirTag still works normally while now being permanently silenced.

Continue reading “AirTag Has Hole Behind The Battery? It’s Likely Been Silenced” →

Making A Functional Control Panel Of The Chernobyl RBMK Reactor

February 11, 2026 by Maya Posch 16 Comments

Control panels of a pre-digitalization nuclear plant look quite daunting, with countless dials, buttons and switches that all make perfect sense to a trained operator, but seem as random as those of the original Enterprise bridge in Star Trek to the average person. This makes the reconstruction of part of the RBMK reactor control by the [Chornobyl Family] on YouTube a fun way to get comfortable with one of the most important elements of this type of reactor’s controls.

The section that is built here pertains to the control rods of the RBMK’s reactor, its automatic regulations and emergency systems like AZ-5 and BAZ. The goal is not just to have a shiny display piece that you can put on the wall, but to make it function just like the real control panel, and to use it for demonstrations of the underlying control systems. The creators spent a lot of time talking with operators of the Chornobyl Nuclear Plant – which operated until the early 2000s – to make the experience as accurate as possible.

Although no real RBMK reactor is being controlled by the panel, its ESP32-powered logic make it work like the real deal, and even uses a dot-matrix printer to provide logging of commands. Not only is this a pretty cool simulator, it’s also just the first element of what will be a larger recreation of an RBMK control room, with more videos in this series to follow.

Also covered in this video are the changes made after the Chernobyl Nuclear Plant’s #4 accident, which served to make RBMKs significantly safer, albeit at the cost of more complexity on the control panel.

Continue reading “Making A Functional Control Panel Of The Chernobyl RBMK Reactor” →

The function generator circuit on a breadboard

555-Based Square-Wave And Triangle-Wave Function Generator Build For Beginners

February 7, 2026 by John Elliot V 8 Comments

Over on YouTube [Andrew Neal] has a Function Generator Build for Beginners.

As beginner videos go this one is fairly comprehensive. [Andrew] shows us how to build a square-wave generator on a breadboard using a 555 timer, explaining how its internal flip-flop is controlled by added resistance and capacitance to become a relaxation oscillator. He shows how to couple a potentiometer to vary the frequency.

He then adds an integrator built from a TL082 dual op amp to convert the circuit to a triangle-wave generator, using its second op amp to build a binary inverter. He notes that a binary inverter is usually implemented with a comparator, but he uses the op amp because it was spare and could be put to good use. Again, potentiometers are added for frequency control, in this case a 1 MΩ pot for coarse control and a 10 kΩ pot for fine control. He ends with a challenge to the viewer: how can this circuit be modified to be a sine-wave generator? Sound off in the comments if you have some ideas!

If you’re interested to know more about function generators check out A Function Generator From The Past and Budget Brilliance: DHO800 Function Generator.

Continue reading “555-Based Square-Wave And Triangle-Wave Function Generator Build For Beginners” →

Welding Nuts Inside Metal Tubes, Painlessly

February 6, 2026 by Donald Papp 37 Comments

[Jer Schmidt] needed a way to put a lot of M8 bolts into a piece of square steel tubing, but just drilling and tapping threads into the thin steel wouldn’t be strong enough. So he figured out a way to reliably weld nuts to the inside of the tube, and his technique works even if the tube is long and the inside isn’t accessible.

Two smaller holes on either side. Weld through the holes. A little grinding results in a smooth top surface.

Essentially, one drills a hole for the bolt, plus two smaller holes on either side. Then one welds the nut to the tubing through those small holes, in a sort of plug weld. A little grinding is all it takes to smooth out the surface, and one is left with a strong threaded hole in a thin-walled tube, using little more than hardware store fasteners.

The technique doesn’t require access to the inside of the tube for the welding part, although getting the nut back there in the first place does require a simple helper tool the nut can slot into. [Jer] makes one with some scrap wood and a table saw, just to show it doesn’t need to be anything fancy.

Another way to put a threaded hole into thin material is to use a rivnut, or rivet nut (sometimes also used to put durable threads into 3D prints) but welding a plain old nut to the inside was far more aligned with what [Jer] needed, and doesn’t rely on any specialty parts or tools.

[Jer]’s upcoming project requires a lot of bolts all the way down long tubing, which is what got him into all of this. Watch it in action in the video below, because [Jer] has definitely worked out the kinks, and he steps through a lot of tips and tricks to make the process painless.

Thanks [paulvdh] for the tip!

Continue reading “Welding Nuts Inside Metal Tubes, Painlessly” →