Checking Out A TV Pattern Generator From 1981

The picture on a TV set used to be the combined product of multiple analog systems, and since TVs had no internal diagnostics, the only way to know things were adjusted properly was to see for yourself. While many people were more or less satisfied if their TV picture was reasonably recognizable and clear, meaningful diagnostic work or calibration required specialized tools. [Thomas Scherrer] provides a close look at one such tool, the Philips PM 5519 GX Color TV Pattern Generator from 1981.

This Casio handheld TV even picked up the test pattern once the cable was disconnected, the pattern generator acting like a miniature TV station.

The Philips PM 5519 was a serious piece of professional equipment for its time, and [Thomas] walks through how the unit works and even opens it up for a peek inside, before hooking it up to both an oscilloscope and a TV in order to demonstrate the different functions.

Tools like this were important because they could provide known-good test patterns that were useful not just for troubleshooting and repair, but also for tasks like fine-tuning TV settings, or verifying the quality of broadcast signals. Because TVs were complex analog systems, these different test patterns would help troubleshoot and isolate problems by revealing what a TV did (and didn’t) have trouble reproducing.

As mentioned, televisions at the time had no self-diagnostics nor any means of producing test patterns of their own, so a way to produce known-good reference patterns was deeply important.

TV stations used to broadcast test patterns after the day’s programming was at an end, and some dedicated folks have even reproduced the hardware that generated these patterns from scratch.

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Watch Bondo Putty Get Sprayed Onto 3D Prints

3D prints destined for presentation need smooth surfaces, and that usually means sanding. [Uncle Jessy] came across an idea he decided to try out for himself: spraying Bondo spot putty onto a 3D print. Bondo spot putty comes from a tube, cures quickly, and sands smoothly. It’s commonly used to hide defects and give 3D prints a great finish. Could spraying liquified Bondo putty onto a 3D print save time, or act as a cheat code for hiding layer lines? [Uncle Jessy] decided to find out.

Gaps and larger flaws still need to be filled by hand, but spray application seems to be a big time saver if nothing else.

The first step is to turn the distinctive red putty into something that can be sprayed through a cheap, ten dollar airbrush. That part was as easy as squeezing putty into a cup and mixing in acetone in that-looks-about-right proportions. A little test spray showed everything working as expected, so [Uncle Jessy] used an iron man mask (smooth surfaces on the outside, textured inside) for a trial run.

Spraying the liquified Bondo putty looks about as easy as spraying paint. The distinctive red makes it easy to see coverage, and it cures very rapidly. It’s super easy to quickly give an object an even coating — even in textured and uneven spots — which is an advantage all on its own. To get a truly smooth surface one still needs to do some sanding, but the application itself looks super easy.

Is it worth doing? [Uncle Jessy] says it depends. First of all, aerosolizing Bondo requires attention to be paid to safety. There’s also a fair bit of setup involved (and a bit of mess) so it might not be worth the hassle for small pieces, but for larger objects it seems like a huge time saver. It certainly seems to cover layer lines nicely, but one is still left with a Bondo-coated object in the end that might require additional sanding, so it’s not necessarily a cheat code for a finished product.

If you think the procedure might be useful, check out the video (embedded below) for a walkthrough. Just remember to do it in a well-ventilated area and wear appropriate PPE.

An alternative to applying Bondo is brush application of UV resin, but we’ve also seen interesting results from non-planar ironing.

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A wrench is shown lying on a machinist’s mat. The end of the wrench holds a ratcheting wheel, on top of which are six independent metal blocks arranged into a hexagon.

Building A Shifting Ratchet Wrench

Convenient though they may be, [Trevor Faber] found some serious shortcomings in shifting spanners: their worm gears are slow to adjust and prone to jamming, they don’t apply even force to all faces of a bolt head, and without a ratchet, they’re rather slow. To overcome these limitations, he designed his own adjustable ratchet wrench.

The adjustment mechanism is based on a pair of plates with opposing slots; the wrench faces are mounted on pins which fit into these slots, and one plate rotates relative to the other, the faces slide inwards or outwards. A significant advantage of this design is that, since one plate is attached to the wrench’s handle, some of the torque applied to the wrench tightens its grip on the bolt. To let the wrench loosen as well as tighten bolts, [Trevor] simply mirrored the mechanism on the other side of the wrench. Manufacturing proved to be quite a challenge: laser cutting wasn’t precise enough for critical parts, and CNC control interpolation resulted in some rough curves which caused the mechanism to bind, but after numerous iterations, [Trevor] finally got a working tool.

To use the wrench, you twist an outer ring to open the jaws, place them over the bolt, then let them snap shut. One nice touch is that you can close this wrench over a bolt, let go of it, and do something else without the wrench falling off the bolt. Recessed bolts were a bit of an issue, but a chamfer ought to improve this. It probably won’t be replacing your socket set, but it looks like it could make the odd job more enjoyable.

If you prefer a more conventional shifting wrench, you can make a miniature out of an M20 nut. It’s also possible to make a shifting Allen wrench.

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The (RF) Sniff Test

Sometimes the old tricks are the best. [Kevin] learned an old trick about using a ‘scope to sniff RF noise and pays it forward by sharing it in a recent video. He uses an oscilloscope. But does he need some special probe setup? Nope. He quickly makes a little RF pickup probe, and if you have a ‘scope, we’re pretty sure you can make one in a few seconds, too.

Of course, you can get probes made for that, and there are advantages to using them. But the quick trick of quickly and non-destructively modifying the existing probe to pick up RF means you always have a way to make these measurements.

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Three breakout boards connected with a few wires

Breakout Boards For The Blind

Connecting an LED to a battery seems trivial. If you have any knowledge of using breadboards, knowing that red goes with red, and that black goes with black, it’s as easy as tying your shoes. Except there’s one problem: what if you can’t see the difference between red and black? [Tara] had a student who struggled with a problem just like this, so of course, they made a whole suite of breakout boards to the rescue!

Breadboards rely almost completely on the visual cues of rows, columns, and if the part is even in the hole correctly. [Tara] fixed these issues while attempting to keep the usefulness of a breadboard. Using tactile cues rather than the traditional visual, a visually impaired individual can figure out what is positive or negative.

Braille is the obvious choice for general communication of inputs and outputs. Where [Tara]’s ingenuity came in was the method of incorporating Braille into the boards — solder joints. After reading a Hackaday article on solder Braille, [Tara] managed a fitting and efficient method of allowing ease of use.

Currently, the boards are in a prototyping stage; however, if you want to try them out yourself early, let [Tara] know. Others with visual impairments are needed to properly stress test the device. If you are someone who does not struggle with any major visual impairments, it can be hard to put yourself in their shoes. For those empathic (and with VR capabilities) among us, be sure to try it yourself!

Close up of a multi-USB tester PCB

Troubled USB Device? This Tool Can Help

You know how it goes — some gadgets stick around in your toolbox far longer than reason dictates, because maybe one day you’ll need it. How many of us held onto ISA diagnostic cards long past the death of the interface?

But unlike ISA, USB isn’t going away anytime soon. Which is exactly why this USB and more tester by [Iron Fuse] deserves a spot in your toolbox. This post is not meant to directly lure you into buying something, but seen how compact it is, it would be sad to challenge anyone to reinvent this ‘wheel’, instead of just ordering it.

So, to get into the details. This is far from the first USB tester to appear on these pages, but it is one of the most versatile ones we’ve seen so far. On the surface, it looks simple: a hand-soldered 14×17 cm PCB with twelve different connectors, all broken out to labelled test points. Hook up a dodgy cable or device, connect a known-good counterpart, and the board makes it painless to probe continuity, resistance, or those pesky shorts where D+ suddenly thinks it’s a ground line.

You’ll still need your multimeter (automation is promised for a future revision), but the convenience of not juggling probes into microscopic USB-C cavities is hard to overstate. Also, if finding out whether you have a power-only or a data cable is your goal, this might be the tool for you instead.

Close up of a DIY minimalist EDC multitool, a penny, and a paperclip

This Pocket Multitool Weighs Less Than A Penny

A multitool that weighs less than a penny? Yes, it exists. This video by [ToolTechGeek] shows his titanium flat-cut design tipping the scales at only 1.9 grams—lighter than the 2.5-gram copper penny jingling in your pocket. His reasoning: where most everyday carry (EDC) tools are bulky, overpriced, or simply too much, this hack flips the equation: reduce it to the absolute minimum, yet keep it useful.

You might have seen this before. This second attempt is done by laser-cutting titanium instead of stainless steel. Thinner, tougher, and rust-proof, titanium slashes the weight dramatically, while still keeping edges functional without sharpening. Despite the size, this tool manages to pack in a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, a makeshift saw, a paint-lid opener, a wire bender (yes, tested on a paperclip), and even a 1/4″ wrench doubling as a bit driver. High-torque screwdriving by using the long edges is a clever exploit, and yes—it scrapes wood, snaps zip ties, and even forces a bottle cap open, albeit a bit roughly.

It’s not about replacing your Leatherman; it’s about carrying something instead of nothing. Ultra-minimalist, featherlight, pocket-slip friendly—bet you can’t find a reason not to just have it in your pocket.

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