Game Boy PCB Assembled With Low-Cost Tools

As computers have gotten smaller and less expensive over the years, so have their components. While many of us got our start in the age of through-hole PCBs, this size reduction has led to more and more projects that need the use of surface-mount components and their unique set of tools. These tools tend to be more elaborate than what would be needed for through-hole construction but [Tobi] has a new project that goes into some details about how to build surface-mount projects without breaking the bank.

The project here is interesting in its own right, too: a display module upgrade for the classic Game Boy based on an RP2350B microprocessor. To get all of the components onto a PCB that actually fits into the original case, though, surface-mount is required. For that [Tobi] is using a small USB-powered hotplate to reflow the solder, a Pinecil, and a healthy amount of flux. The hotplate is good enough for a small PCB like this, and any solder bridges can be quickly cleaned up with some extra flux and a quick pass with a soldering iron.

The build goes into a lot of detail about how a process like this works, so if you’ve been hesitant to start working with surface mount components this might be a good introduction. Not only that, but we also appreciate the restoration of the retro video game handheld complete with some new features that doesn’t disturb the original look of the console. One of the other benefits of using the RP2350 for this build is that it’s a lot simpler than using an FPGA, but there are perks to taking the more complicated route as well.

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Low Cost Oscilloscope Gets Low Cost Upgrades

Entry-level oscilloscopes are a great way to get some low-cost instrumentation on a test bench, whether it’s for a garage lab or a schoolroom. But the cheapest ones are often cheap for a reason, and even though they work well for the price they won’t stand up to more advanced equipment. But missing features don’t have to stay missing forever, as it’s possible to augment them to get some of these features. [Tommy’s] project shows you one way to make a silk purse from a sow’s ear, at least as it relates to oscilloscopes.

Most of the problem with these lower-cost tools is their low precision due to fewer bits of analog-digital conversion. They also tend to be quite noisy, further lowering the quality of the oscilloscope. [Tommy] is focusing his efforts on the DSO138-mini, an oscilloscope with a bandwidth of 100 kHz and an effective resolution of 10 bits. The first step is to add an anti-aliasing filter to the input, which is essentially a low-pass filter that removes high frequency components of the signal, which could cause a problem due to the lower resolution of the device. After that, digital post-processing is done on the output, which removes noise caused by the system’s power supply, among other things, and essentially acts as a second low-pass filter.

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Frankenflair 58: Manual Roots, Advanced Brew

The user interface of things we deal with often makes or breaks our enjoyment of using a device. [Janne] thinks so, he has an espresso machine he enjoys but the default controls were not what he was looking for and so in true hacker fashion he took what was and made it his own.

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A Blacksmith Shows Us How To Choose An Anvil

No doubt many readers have at times wished to try their hand at blacksmithing, but it’s fair to say that acquiring an anvil represents quite the hurdle. For anyone not knowing where to turn there’s a video from [Black Bear Forge], in which he takes us through a range of budget options.

He starts with a sledgehammer, the simplest anvil of all, which we would agree makes a very accessible means to do simple forge work. He shows us a rail anvil and a couple of broken old anvils, before spending some time on a cheap Vevor anvil and going on to some much nicer more professional ones. It’s probably the Vevor which is the most interesting of the ones on show though, not because it is particularly good but because it’s a chance to see up close one of these very cheap anvils.

Are they worth taking the chance? The one he’s got has plenty of rough parts and casting flaws, an oddly-sited pritchel and a hardy hole that’s too small. These anvils are sometimes referred to as “Anvil shaped objects”, and while this one could make a reasonable starter it’s not difficult to see why it might not be the best purchase. It’s a subject we have touched on before in our blacksmithing series, so we’re particularly interested to see his take on it.

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A broken bolt is removed by welding on a hut and then using a wrench to unscrew.

Using A MIG Welder, Acetylene Torch, And Air Hammer To Remove A Broken Bolt

If your shop comes complete with a MIG welder, an acetylene torch, and an air hammer, then you have more options than most when it comes to removing broken bolts.

In this short video [Jim’s Automotive Machine Shop, Inc] takes us through the process of removing a broken manifold bolt: use a MIG welder to attach a washer, then attach a suitably sized nut and weld that onto the washer, heat the assembly with the acetylene torch, loosen up any corrosion on the threads by tapping with a hammer, then simply unscrew with your wrench! Everything is easy when you know how!

Of course if your shop doesn’t come complete with a MIG welder and acetylene torch you will have to get by with the old Easy Out screw extractor like the rest of us. And if you are faced with a nasty bolt situation keep in mind that lubrication can help.

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Our hacker converts an old hard disk drive into a disc sander.

Making A Variable Speed Disc Sander From An Old Hard Drive

This short video from [ProShorts 101] shows us how to build a variable speed disc sander from not much more than an old hard drive.

We feel that as far as hacks go this one ticks all the boxes. It is clever, useful, and minimal yet comprehensive; it even has a speed control! Certainly this hack uses something in a way other than it was intended to be used.

Take this ingenuity and add an old hard drive from your junkbox, sandpaper, some glue, some wire, a battery pack, a motor driver, a power socket and a potentiometer, drill a few holes, glue a few pieces, and voilĂ ! A disc sander! Of course the coat of paint was simply icing on the cake.

The little brother of this hack was done by the same hacker on a smaller hard drive and without the speed control, so check that out too.

One thing that took our interest while watching these videos is what tool the hacker used to cut sandpaper. Here we witnessed the use of both wire cutters and a craft knife. Perhaps when you’re cutting sandpaper you just have to accept that the process will wear out the sharp edge on your tool, regardless of which tool you use. If you have a hot tip for the best tool for the job when it comes to cutting sandpaper please let us know in the comments! (Also, did anyone catch what type of glue was used?)

If you’re interested in a sander but need something with a smaller form factor check out how to make a sander from a toothbrush! Continue reading “Making A Variable Speed Disc Sander From An Old Hard Drive”

Homemade VNA Delivers High-Frequency Performance On A Budget

With vector network analyzers, the commercial offerings seem to come in two flavors: relatively inexpensive but limited capabilities, and full-featured but scary expensive. There doesn’t seem to be much middle ground, especially if you want something that performs well in the microwave bands.

Unless, of course, you build your own vector network analyzer (VNA). That’s what [Henrik Forsten] did, and we’ve got to say we’re even more impressed by the results than we were with his earlier effort. That version was not without its problems, and fixing them was very much on the list of goals for this build. Keeping the build affordable was also key, which resulted in some design compromises while still meeting [Henrik]’s measurement requirements.

The Bill of Materials includes dual-channel broadband RF mixer chips, high-speed 12-bit ADCs, and a fast FPGA to handle the torrent of data and run the digital signal processing functions. The custom six-layer PCB is on the large side and includes large cutouts for the directional couplers, which use short lengths of stripped coaxial cable lined with ferrite rings. To properly isolate signals between stages, [Henrik] sandwiched the PCB between a two-piece aluminum enclosure. Wisely, he printed a prototype enclosure and lined it with aluminum foil to test for fit and function before committing to milling the final version. He did note some leakage around the SMA connectors, but a few RF gaskets made from scraps of foil and solder braid did the trick.

This is a pretty slick build, especially considering he managed to keep the price tag at a very reasonable $300. It’s more expensive than the popular NanoVNA or its clones, but it seems like quite a bargain considering its capabilities.