This project gives a whole new meaning to DIY PC. We don’t know how capable you were as a teenager, but could you have designed your own Ryzen-based mini PC?
Whilst making repairs to laptop internals, [Dominik Baroński] was busy taking notes. Modern super-integrated laptop PCs have reached the point where all the functions of a complete PC are embedded in a single chip. But it’s a big, complicated chip with very specific feeding and care needs. Once you’ve figured out what it needs, it ‘merely’ remains to supply it power, hook up some DDR4 RAM, PCIe storage, and some USB ports, and you’re away. It sounds easy when you say it like that, but do not underestimate how difficult it is to create such a board—or even to populate it by hand—yet that’s precisely what [Dominik] has achieved.
For any mission-critical computer system, it’s a good idea to think about how the system will handle power outages. At the very least it’s a good idea to give the computer enough time to gracefully shut down if the power outage will last for an indefinite time. But for extremely critical infrastructure, like our home Wi-Fi, we might consider a more long-term battery backup that can let us get through the longest of power outages.
Part of why this project from [Next Builder] works so well is that most off-the-shelf routers don’t actually use that much energy. Keeping that and a modem online when the power is out only requires a few lithium batteries. To that end, three lithium ion cells are arranged in series to provide the router with between 9 and 12 volts, complete with a battery management system (BMS) to ensure they aren’t over- or under-charged and that they are balanced. The router plugs directly into a barrel jack, eliminating any switching losses from having to use an inverter during battery operation.
While [Next Builder] is a student who lives in an area with frequent interruptions to the electricity supply, this does a good job of keeping him online. If you’re planning for worse or longer outages, a design like this is easily adapted for more batteries provided the correct BMS is used to keep the cells safely charged and regulated. You can also adapt much larger UPS systems to power more of your home’s electrical system, provided you can find enough batteries.
Occasionally a design requires capacitors that are much closer to being identical in value to one another than the usual tolerance ranges afford. Precision matching of components from parts on hand might sound like a needle-in-a-haystack problem, but not with [Stephen Woodward]’s Capacitor Matchmaker design.
The larger the output voltage, the greater the mismatch between capacitors A and B.
The Matchmaker is a small circuit intended to be attached to a DVM, with the output voltage indicating whether two capacitors (A and B) are precisely matched in value. If they are not equal, the voltage output indicates the degree of the mismatch as well as which is the larger of the two.
The core of the design is complementary excitation of the two capacitors (the CD4013B dual flip-flop achieves this) which results in a measurable signal if the two capacitors are different; nominally 50 mV per % of mismatch. Output polarity indicates which of the capacitors is the larger one. In the case of the two capacitors being equal, the charges cancel out.
Can’t precision-matched capacitors be purchased? Absolutely, but doing so is not always an option. As [Stephen] points out, selection of such components is limited and they come at an added cost. If one’s design requires extra-tight tolerances, requires capacitor values or types not easily available as precision pairs, or one’s budget simply doesn’t allow for the added cost, then the DIY approach makes a lot more sense.
If you’re going to go down this road, [Stephen] shares an extra time-saving tip: use insulated gloves to handle the capacitors being tested. Heating up a capacitor before testing it — even just from one’s fingers — can have a measurable effect.
[Stephen]’s got a knack for insightful electronic applications. Check out his PWMPot, a simple DIY circuit that can be an awfully good stand-in for a digital potentiometer.
Robotic arms have a lot in common with CNC machines in that they are usually driven by a fixed script of specific positions to move to, and actions to perform. Autonomous behavior isn’t the norm, especially not for hobby-level robotics. That’s changing rapidly with LeRobot, an open-source machine learning framework from the Hugging Face community.
The SO-101 arm is an economical way to get started.
If a quick browse of the project page still leaves you with questions, you’re not alone. Thankfully, [Ilia] has a fantastic video that explains and demonstrates the fundamentals wonderfully. In it, he shows how LeRobot allows one to train an economical 3D-printed robotic arm by example, teaching it to perform a task autonomously. In this case, the task is picking up a ball and putting it into a cup.
[Ilia] first builds a dataset by manually operating the arm to pick up a ball and place it in a cup. Then, with a dataset consisting of only about fifty such examples, he creates a machine learning model capable of driving the arm to autonomously pick up a ball and place it in a cup, regardless of where the ball and cup actually are. It even gracefully handles things like color changes and [Ilia] moving the cup and ball around mid-task. You can skip directly to 34:16 to see this autonomous behavior in action, but we do recommend watching the whole video for a highly accessible yet deeply technical overview.
3D printing has transformed how hobbyists fabricate things, but what additional doors would open if we could go even smaller? The µRepRap (RepRapMicron) project aims to bring fabrication at the micron and sub-micron scale to hobbyists the same way RepRap strove to make 3D printing accessible. New developments by [Vik Olliver] show a promising way forward, and also highlight the many challenges of going so small.
New Maus prototype is modular, setting the stage for repeatable and reliable 3D printing at the micro scale.
How exactly would a 3D printer do micro-fabrication? Not by squirting plastic from a nozzle, but by using a vanishingly tiny needle-like effector (which can be made at any workbench via electrochemical erosion) to pick up a miniscule amount of resin one dab a time, curing it with UV after depositing it like a brush deposits a dot of ink.
By doing so repeatedly and in a structured way, one can 3D print at a micro scale one “pixel” (or voxel, more accurately) at a time. You can see how small they’re talking in the image in the header above. It shows a RepRapMicron tip (left) next to a 24 gauge hypodermic needle (right) which is just over half a millimeter in diameter.
Moving precisely and accurately at such a small scale also requires something new, and that is where flexures come in. Where other 3D printers use stepper motors and rails and belts, RepRapMicron leverages work done by the OpenFlexure project to achieve high-precision mechanical positioning without the need for fancy materials or mechanisms. We’ve actually seen this part in action, when [Vik Olliver] amazed us by scribing a 2D micron-scale Jolly Wrencher 1.5 mm x 1.5 mm in size, also visible in the header image above.
Using a tiny needle to deposit dabs of UV resin provides the platform with a way to 3D print, but there are still plenty of unique problems to be solved. How does one observe such a small process, or the finished print? How does one handle such a tiny object, or free it from the build platform without damaging it? The RepRapMicron project has solutions lined up for each of these and more, so there’s a lot of discovery waiting to be done. Got ideas of your own? The project welcomes collaboration. If you’d like to watch the latest developments as they happen, keep an eye on the Github repository and the blog.
[Tommy] has a great write-up about designing and building a minimalistic handheld electronic game called “Higher Lower”. It’s an audio-driven game in which the unit plays two tones and asks the player to choose whether the second tone was higher in pitch, or lower. The game relies on 3D printed components and minimal electronics, limiting player input to two buttons and output to whatever a speaker stuck to an output pin from an ATtiny85 can generate.
Fastener-free enclosure means fewer parts, and on the inside are pots for volume and difficulty. We love the thoughtful little tabs that hold the rocker switch in place during assembly.
Gameplay may be straightforward, but working with so little raises a number of design challenges. How does one best communicate game state (and things like scoring) with audio tones only? What’s the optimal way to generate a random seed when the best source of meaningful, zero-extra-components entropy (timing of player input) happens after the game has already started? What’s the most efficient way to turn a clear glue stick into a bunch of identical little light pipes? [Tommy] goes into great detail for each of these, and more.
In addition to the hardware and enclosure design, [Tommy] has tried new things on the software end of things. He found that using tools intended to develop for the Arduboy DIY handheld console along with a hardware emulator made for a very tight feedback loop during development. Being able to work on the software side without actually needing the hardware and chip programmer at hand was also flexible and convenient.
We’ve seen [Tommy]’s work before about his synth kits, and as usual his observations and shared insights about bringing an idea from concept to kit-worthy product are absolutely worth a read.
You can find all the design files on the GitHub repository, but Higher Lower is also available as a reasonably-priced kit with great documentation suitable for anyone with an interest. Watch it in action in the video below.
A hefty portable power bank is a handy thing to DIY, but one needs to get their hands on a number of matching lithium-ion cells to make it happen. [Chris Doel] points out an easy solution: salvage them from disposable vapes and build a solid 35-cell power bank. Single use devices? Not on his watch!
[Chris] has made it his mission to build useful things like power banks out of cells harvested from disposable vapes. He finds them — hundreds of them — on the ground or in bins (especially after events like music festivals) but has also found that vape shops are more than happy to hand them over if asked. Extracting usable cells is most of the work, and [Chris] has refined safely doing so into an art.
Disposable vapes are in all shapes and sizes, but cells inside are fairly similar.
Many different vapes use the same cell types on the inside, and once one has 35 identical cells in healthy condition it’s just a matter of using a compatible 3D-printed enclosure with two PCBs to connect the cells, and a pre-made board handles the power bank functionality, including recharging.
We’d like to highlight a few design features that strike us as interesting. One is the three little bendy “wings” that cradle each cell, ensuring cells are centered and held snugly even if they aren’t exactly the right size. Another is the use of spring terminals to avoid the need to solder to individual cells. The PCBs themselves also double as cell balancers, providing a way to passively balance all 35 cells and ensure they are at the same voltage level during initial construction. After the cells are confirmed to be balanced, a solder jumper near each terminal is closed to bypass that functionality for final assembly.
The result is a hefty power bank that can power just about anything, and maybe the best part is that it can be opened and individual cells swapped out as they reach the end of their useful life. With an estimated 260 million disposable vapes thrown in the trash every year in the UK alone, each one containing a rechargeable lithium-ion cell, there’s no shortage of cells for an enterprising hacker willing to put in a bit of work.
Learn all about it in the video, embedded below. And if you find yourself curious about what exactly goes on in a lithium-ion battery, let our own Arya Voronova tell you all about it.
