Coffee Maker Steam Wand Gets A Safe Outlet

Sometimes a hacker has a specific sort of problem, and uses the tools they have to solve it in a way that just might be helpful to someone else. That’s the case with [Matvey Kukuy]’s Coffee Steam Dryer (V2), which performs the very specific job of safely swallowing up expelled steam and water from an espresso machine’s steam wand.

Steam purges into the top inlet and passes through expansion chambers, dragging cool air along with it, until it exits safely.

Steam wands are used to froth milk into a velvety texture, and some machines require purging the wand before using it for best results. Where does the resulting jet of steam and spatter of superhot water droplets go? Not the machine’s problem. That’s for the user to deal with, and [Matvey] decided to address it by designing and 3D printing a tool.

The pipe-like object works by having steam jet into the open top (printed in ABS or ASA for heat resistance) where the device redirects the hot gas and captures any expelled water in the process. The steam flows through expansion chambers, dragging cool air along with it in the process, until it ultimately gets redirected away from the user.

By the time steam exits the outlet, some has condensed and the remainder has cooled and slowed down enough to not be a worry.

It’s the second version of the device, and we like how it has no moving parts and can be disassembled for cleaning and drying.

Coffee is an area that is rich with hacker activity, from 3D-printed micro-brew machines to completely DIY roasters but tools like this show how improving the coffee workflow can also be beneficial.

Big Infinity Mirror Clock Invites You To Gaze Deeply

[Andy Huot] has a fantastic-looking infinity mirror digital clock that really raises the bar. It uses high quality components, smart use of RGB LED animations, and a clever “stacked diffuser” vertical design to the 7-segment display elements that really enhances the infinity mirror effect. It needs to be seen in action, so check it out.

The end result is expressly portal-like, with the smooth animations of the LEDs really playing into the effect. The size helps, too. It’s 24 inches in diameter, giving it considerable presence.

The stacked diffuser design for each display element really enhances the effect.

A basic infinity mirror design consists of lit elements sandwiched between a reflective back surface and a partially-reflective, partially-transmissive top cover. That same basic principle is used here, but with great care given to ensure nothing so much as a fingerprint spoils the illusion. For example, the top cover is a disk of acrylic with a 90% reflective film affixed to the inside surface. That’s easy enough to DIY with some car tint, but [Andy] found that for the very best results it was worth having high-quality film professionally applied.

We like the use of 3D-printed custom jigs for soldering the segments of RGB LED strips, and holding the pre-measured wires in place with some putty is a great way to keep them in place while working. In case you’re wondering, the mirrored acrylic making up the back wall has holes in it for mounting each segment’s LED strip in a holder, and running the wires to the rear.

The video (embedded below) documents every step of the assembly, and it’s a serious build. While the design files for the 3D-printed parts are not free, there’s certainly enough detail for an enterprising hacker to replicate the design in their own way.

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How To Fold Curved Lines In Metal Without Fancy Tools

Folding a sheet of metal in a straight line is one thing, but how does one fold multiple curved lines into a sheet of aluminum without fancy machines? [John] demonstrates how to do exactly that with little more than hand tools and a fair bit of patience. The secret is drilling a lot of small holes along each fold line.

Complex shapes are possible with planning, hand tools, and patience.

First, a bit of background. [John] wanted to fabricate a curved piece of aluminum as cover that would match the sleek aerodynamic lines of a Belly Tank Lakester. The trick is that there isn’t a single straight line to be found, and the fold lines are all curves. How can one do such folding with only hand tools?

[John] found that fabrication was possible by drilling small holes all along each fold line, then carefully bending as needed. The line of holes weakens the metal, acting like a score line, and allow the required curves to be made cleanly. There’s some finishing work and straightening involved, but the hard part of making the actual folds is taken care of.

One method that didn’t work was cutting a shallow groove in the metal to create something like a pre-scored fold line. [John] tried this and found that while the metal does indeed fold along the weakened line, the aluminum tends to crack in the process. When making a line of holes instead, the metal between each hole bends nicely.

This technique does mean the finished part ends up with small perforations along each fold, but the part is mounted on the bottom of the car and [John] says that he’d have to look quite closely to notice. A little polishing goes a long way, too.

We have covered many ways to bend sheet metal and while machinery exists to do it exceedingly well, great results can be had with little more than simple tools and some patience.

Watch [John] go through the process in the video embedded below, or skip to 7:55 if you just want to see the end result.

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Voicebox FX Is A Blueprint For CircuitPython I2S Audio

[Adafruit]’s Voicebox FX gadget is a fun, well-documented project that serves another useful purpose: being a fantastic reference design for audio on CircuitPython, with I2S audio components. Be sure to check it out if you have a project that involves any of that and could use a few pointers, or if you just want to jog a few ideas loose.

I2S (Inter-IC Sound) is a protocol aimed squarely at moving audio data between components as digital signals. Our own [Jenny List] can tell you everything you need to know about I2S. It’s a relatively simple interface that is not at all fussy about actually being used for audio, and that has led to it being put to some unusual uses.

The Voicebox FX uses an I2S microphone, an I2S amplifier, and an RP2350 microcontroller to record and play sound as well as offer a variety of effects controlled by physical inputs. It’s all wrapped up in a slick 3D printed case, and while it’s a fantastic reference design, it looks like a fun toy in its own right.

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Straight Talk On 3D Printing Footwear At Home

Printed footwear is an intriguing idea, but as far as projects go it is somewhat more complex than it first appears. This guide to 3D printing your own clogs not only provides a solid process, but also acts as a list of the challenges and pitfalls involved. After all, a piece of footwear is actually a fairly large object. Failed prints can be costly and time-consuming, so a guide like this is a valuable resource.

First of all, a 3D printer that can handle multi-material printing is called for. The footwear itself will be printed in TPU 90A as a sweet spot for hardness, but the print will require supports and those supports will need to peel away cleanly. The solution is a shoe printed in TPU with a rigid support structure of PLA. Using two different materials in the same print with anything remotely resembling efficiency calls for either a dual-nozzle print head, or a multi-toolhead printer.

3D printing one’s own clogs can be rewarding, if not necessarily cost-effective.

Here we want to take a moment and say that while the guide itself suggests PETG is also a suitable support structure, we suspect this might only be true for the exact filament formulations used in the guide. The safer approach is to use PLA. Why? As we’ve seen in other tests, PETG has been observed to stick extremely well to flex filaments in general, whereas PLA doesn’t really want to stick to anything other than PLA. The exact formulations of TPU and PETG used in the guide might be compatible with one another, but in general we recommend sticking to PLA as a rigid support for flexible filament.

Assuming a capable printer and suitable materials are nailed down, one also needs to worry about keeping the TPU dry. It is very sensitive to moisture, which directly affects print quality. You’ll also need to dial in the settings — a gyroid-patterned infill of 15% provides the right amount of “squish”, which is most effectively fine-tuned by changing the infill pattern rather than the density.

Is it worth the time and effort and filament cost to print one’s own pair of slip-ons versus simply buying a pair of Crocs®? Maybe not, but it can still be rewarding and this guide will help minimize any failed prints in the process. And if you do get a nice print but the TPU is sticking a little too well to the build plate, reach for the isopropyl alcohol.

Robotic Screw And Bolt Sorter Seeks A New Challenge

As someone who disassembles and repairs hardware, [Aad] eventually ended up with a huge collection of mixed bolts and screws. This led to creating the automatic bolt and screw sorting system you see here, although in a way it is just a proof of concept. Bolts and screws happen to be a useful application for now, but the system is capable of sorting just about any small objects.

A bit of machine vision detects the size and shape of each object. Weight can also be measured.

Mixed pieces go onto a large conveyor belt, shown on the right. This feeds a few screws at a time down a chute, where they roll onto an illuminated platform.

Above the lit platform is a camera, and machine vision is used to detect the size and shape and orientation of each screw. A robotic gripper on a gantry picks the screws up one by one — separating them first if they happened to clump together — and places each in a drop-off cart. The cart drops the object into a receptacle with its brethren, making sure similar ones are grouped together. Watch it in action in the video, embedded below the page break.

It’s a great build that shows fancy components aren’t necessary for good results. Servos and steppers are controlled with an ESP32-WROOM board, and a piezo sensor detects screws falling off the conveyor. Some of you may have noticed a repurposed Ultimaker 3D printer serving as the bulk of the system, its hot end having been replaced with a gripper that can raise and lower. The overhead camera is an ESP32-CAM adapted to accept M12 lenses so it can focus on the platform.

There’s one more feature worth mentioning — the system also has the ability to measure the weight of a picked object by placing it onto a moveable inspection platform, which can optionally put it under a USB microscope for a closer look. Everything is controlled by a nearby PC, so there’s a lot of flexibility built into the system.

We suppose that once all the screws and bolts in a shop are sorted, it only makes sense to sort all the nuts. Are there other objects besides screws and bolts that would be useful to sort with a system like this? If you have any ideas, don’t keep them to yourself! [Aad] would love to hear your comments and ideas, so share them below.

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A Feature-Rich Drum Machine

A little over a month ago, we featured a project from [Igor] who built 64 bits of DRAM from scratch using discrete components. Jokes about memory pricing aside, he did have a use case for such a small amount of memory — he is using it in a custom-built drum machine. But featuring the memory build and not the drum machine was perhaps putting the cart before the horse, so in this video, [Igor] shows off the construction of each part of his impressive 16- or 64-step sequence drum machine.

This isn’t Igor’s first drum machine, either, although his previous build was a bit more limited. It had fewer steps in the sequence and didn’t quite have the range of his newer model. The upgraded version can play more steps but also includes force-sensitive drum pads based on piezo sensors and more voices (drums) as well. Each voice is built electronically using various op-amps and passive components, and [Igor] has the schematics for each of them, as well as every other part of the drum machine, for those looking to recreate any part of this on their own. There’s a lot going on in this lengthy video as well, so for the musically inclined, it’s worth taking a look in full.

Now that our horse is in the correct position in front of the cart, it’s worth going back and looking at the memory build if you missed it when it first ran. A small amount of memory makes the machine programmable rather than just playable, and truly expands the capabilities of a machine like this in the recording studio.

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