A Simple Guide To RF PCB Design

August 23, 2024 by Dave Rowntree 9 Comments

[Hans Rosenberg] knows a thing or two about RF PCB design and has provided a ~~three-part~~ four-part video demonstration of some solid rules of thumb. We will cover the first part here and leave the other two for the more interested readers!

The design process begins with a schematic diagram, assuming ideal conductors. Advanced software tools can extract the resistive, inductive, and capacitive elements of the physical wiring to create a parasitic model that can be compared to the desired schematic. The RF designer’s task is to optimize the layout to minimize differences and achieve the best performance to meet the design goals. However, what do you do when you don’t have access to such software?

[Hans] explains that at low frequencies, return current flows through all paths, with the lowest resistance path taking most of the current. At higher frequencies, the lowest inductance path carries all the current. In real designs, a ground plane is used instead of an explicit return trace for the lowest possible impedance.

You really wouldn’t design an RF circuit like this.

[Hans] shows the effect of interrupting the signal return path on a physical test PCB. The result is pretty bad, with the current forced to detour around the hole in the ground plane. A nanoVNA shows a -20 dB drop at 4 GHz, where the ground plane has effectively become an antenna. Energy will be radiated out, causing signal loss, but worse, it will create an EMC hazard with an unintended transmission.

Additionally, this creates an EMC susceptibility, making the situation worse. Placing a solder blob to bridge the gap directly under the signal trace is all that’s required to make it a continuous straight path again, and the performance is restored.

Floating planes are also an issue in RF designs, causing signal resonance and losses. One solution is to pull back the planes near the signal or stitch them to the ground plane with vias placed closely on either side of the signal trace. However, such stitching may slightly affect transmission line impedance and require tweaking the design a little. The next two parts of the series expand on this, hammering home the importance of good ground plane design. These are definitely worth a watch!

PCB design is as much art as science, and we’ve discussed this subject a lot. Here’s our simple guide to rocking RF PCB designs. There’s also a lot of devil in that detail, for example when understanding edge-launch SMA connectors.

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Rebuilding The First Digital Personal Computer

August 16, 2024 by Bryan Cockfield 15 Comments

When thinking of the first PCs, most of us might imagine something like the Apple I or the TRS-80. But even before that, there were a set of computers that often had no keyboard, or recognizable display beyond a few blinking lights. [Artem Kalinchuk] is attempting to recreate one of these very early digital computers, the Kenbak-1, using as many period-correct parts as possible.

Considered by many to be the world’s first personal computer, the Kenbak-1 was an 8-bit machine with 256 bytes of memory, using TTL integrated circuits for the logic as there was no commercially available microprocessor available at the time it was designed. For [Artem]’s build, most of these parts can still be sourced including the 7400-series chips and carbon resistors although the shift registers were a bit of a challenge to find. A custom PCB was built to replicate the original, and with all the parts in order it’s ready to be assembled and put into a case which was built using the drawings for the original unit.

Although [Artem] plans to build a period-correct linear power supply for this computer, right now he’s using a modern switching power supply for testing. The only other major components that are different are the status lamps, in this case switched to LEDs because he wasn’t able to source incandescent bulbs that drew low enough current, and the switches which he’s replaced with MX-style keys. We’ll stay tuned as he builds and tests this over the course of several videos, but in the meantime if you’re curious how this early computer actually worked we featured an emulator for it a while back.

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Hacker Tactic: Single-PCB Panels

July 17, 2024 by Arya Voronova 35 Comments

Ordering a PCB? Two of them? Three? Five? For about eight years now, I’ve been regularly ordering large numbers of different PCBs, and, naturally, have developed a toolkit to make things smoother. One trick is PCB panelization, and you should really know about it.

You might’ve encountered PCB panels already. Perhaps, if you order PCBA at a fab, you will get your board returned in a whole new form-factor, with rails on the sides that you have to snap off before your PCB is usable. Those rails are used so that your PCBs are easier to handle during assembly, but that’s far from the only reason why you would make a panel.

If you need multiple pieces of a PCB, your fab may say that building 50 pcs is classified as “large batch” and that takes longer than 30 days, which delays your entire PCB order. I’ve been there, five years ago, running out of time right before Chinese New Year. The fix was simple – I made a 2×2 panel and ordered that in quantity of 10-15. Panelization might be a little more expensive, or maybe even cheaper, but, most importantly, it will be faster.

In a few hours’ time, I sat down, figured out that KiCad has built-in features for panelization, and ordered panels instead of separate PCBs. Thanks to that, I made the Chinese New Year deadline that year and could successfully restock my store, letting me earn a fair bit of money instead of keeping a popular product out-of-stock – ultimately, helping my family stay up on rent that month.

Panelization lets you hack around many PCB ordering and assembly limitations, and I’ve only gotten started – there’s way way more! For now, let’s sort out panelizing multiples of the same PCB. As long as your boards are using KiCad (or KiCad-converted from Eagle/EasyEDA/Altium/gerbers), there’s no better software than KiKit.

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Five Ways To Repair Broken PCB Traces

July 14, 2024 by Al Williams 23 Comments

When everything used wires, it was easy to splice them or replace them. Not so much with PC boards, but everyone has their favorite method for repairing a broken trace. [Mr. SolderFix] has his five favorite ways, as you can see in the video below.

Of course, before you can repair a trace, you probably have to expose it since most boards have solder mask now. Unless you plan to shut the trace at both ends, exposing the actual trace is probably the first step.

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Watch SLS 3D Printed Parts Become Printed Circuits

June 20, 2024 by Donald Papp 38 Comments

[Ben Krasnow] of the Applied Science channel recently released a video demonstrating his process for getting copper-plated traces reliably embedded into sintered nylon powder (SLS) 3D printed parts, and shows off a variety of small test boards with traces for functional circuits embedded directly into them.

Here’s how it works: The SLS 3D printer uses a laser to fuse powdered nylon together layer by layer to make a plastic part. But to the nylon powder, [Ben] has added a small amount of a specific catalyst (copper chromite), so that prints contains this catalyst. Copper chromite is pretty much inert until it gets hit by a laser, but not the same kind of laser that sinters the nylon powder. That means after the object is 3D printed, the object is mostly nylon with a small amount of (inert) copper chromite mixed in. That sets the stage for what comes next.

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2024 Business Card Challenge: PCB Business Cards For Everybody

June 19, 2024 by Dave Rowntree 21 Comments

PCB business cards for electronics engineers might be very much old news in our circles, but they are still cool, not seen too much in the wild, and frankly inaccessible to those in other industries. For their entry into the 2024 Business Card Challenge, [Dima Shlenkevitch] is helping a little to alleviate this by providing a set of design examples and worked costs with suppliers.

Original green is still the cheapest option.

[Dima] lists key features every PCB business card should include, such as the expected thickness, restrictions for placing NFC components, and some aesthetics tips. Make sure to choose a supplier that allows you to remove their order number from the manufactured PCB, or it will look out of place.

Ordering PCBs with these specifications to keep costs reasonable requires effort, so [Dima] offers some example designs along with the results. If you want to have pretty gold lettering and graphics, you will need ENiG plating, increasing the price. Non-standard solder mask colors can also raise the price.

Will this help with the practical aspects of driving the PCB design software and actually placing the order? Obviously not, but the information provided gives you a leg up on some of the decisions so you don’t go down an expensive rabbit hole.

Restoring A Vintage CGA Card With Homebrew HASL

June 12, 2024 by Dan Maloney 26 Comments

Right off the bat, we’ll stipulate that what [Adrian] is doing in the video below isn’t actual hot air solder leveling. But we thought the results of his card-edge connector restoration on a CGA video card from the early 80s was pretty slick, and worth keeping in mind for other applications.

The back story is that [Adrian], of “Digital Basement” YouTube fame, came across an original IBM video card from the early days of the IBM-PC. The card was unceremoniously dumped, probably due to the badly corroded pins on the card-edge bus connector. The damage appeared to be related to a leaking battery — the corrosion had that sickly look that seems to only come from the guts of batteries — leading him to try cleaning the formerly gold-plated pins. He chose naval jelly rust remover for the job; for those unfamiliar with this product, it’s mostly phosphoric acid mixed with thickeners and is used as a rust remover.

The naval jelly certainly did the trick, but left the gold-plated pins a little worse for the wear. Getting them back to their previous state wasn’t on the table, but protecting them with a thin layer of solder was easy enough. [Adrian] used liquid rosin flux and a generous layer of 60:40 solder, which was followed by removing the excess with desoldering braid. That worked great and got the pins on both sides of the board into good shape.

[Adrian] also mentioned a friend who recommended using toilet paper to wick up excess solder, but sadly he didn’t demonstrate that method. Sounds a little sketchy, but maybe we’ll give it a try. As for making this more HASL-like, maybe heating up the excess solder with an iron and blasting the excess off with some compressed air would be worth a try.

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