Oddball LCDs Reverse Engineered Thanks To Good Detective Work

Is there anything more discouraging to the reverse engineer than to see a black blob of epoxy applied directly to a PCB? We think not, because that formless shape provides no clue as to what chip lies beneath, and that means a lot of detective work if you’re going to figure out how to use this thing.

[Sudhir Chandra]’s detective story starts with a bunch of oddball LCDs, slim 1×32 character units rather than the more familiar 2×16 displays. Each bore the dreaded black COB blob on the back, as well as a handful of SMD components and not much else. Googling revealed no useful documentation, and the manufacturer wasn’t interested in fielding calls from a hobbyist. Reasoning that most manufacturers wouldn’t spin up a custom chip for every display, [Sudhir] assumed there was an ST7066, a common LCD driver chip, underneath the blob, especially given the arrangement of external components. But a jumper set was bodged together under this assumption didn’t get the display going.

Next up were more destructive methods, to decap the COB and see what kind of numbers might be on the chip. Sandpaper worked at first, but [Sudhir] eventually turned to the “Chips a la [Antoine]” method of decapping, which uses heat and brute force to get at the goods. This got down to the chip, but [Sudhir]’s microscope wasn’t up to the task of reading the die markings.

What eventually cracked the case was tracing out the voltages across the various external resistors and matching them up to other chips in the same family as the ST7066, plus the realization that the long, narrow epoxy blob probably covered a similarly shaped chip, which led to the culprit: an ST7070. This allowed [Sudhir] to build an adapter PCB for the displays, with plans for a custom Arduino library to talk to the displays.

This was a great piece of reverse engineering and a good detective story to boot. Hats off to [Sudhir] for sticking with it.

Homemade Raman Laser Is Shaken, Not Stirred

You wouldn’t think that shaking something in just the right way would be the recipe for creating laser light, but as [Les Wright] explains in his new video, that’s pretty much how his DIY Raman laser works.

Of course, “shaking” is probably a gross oversimplification of Raman scattering, which lies at the heart of this laser. [Les] spends the first half of the video explaining Raman scattering and stimulated Raman scattering. It’s an excellent treatment of the subject matter, but at the end of the day, when certain crystals and liquids are pumped with a high-intensity laser they’ll emit coherent, monochromatic light at a lower frequency than the pumping laser. By carefully selecting the gain medium and the pumping laser wavelength, Raman lasers can emit almost any wavelength.

Most gain media for Raman lasers are somewhat exotic, but luckily some easily available materials will work just fine too. [Les] chose the common solvent dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO) for his laser, which was made from a length of aluminum hex stock. Bored out, capped with quartz windows, and fitted with a port to fill it with DMSO, the laser — or more correctly, a resonator — is placed in the path of [Les]’ high-power tattoo removal laser. Laser light at 532 nm from the pumping laser passes through a focusing lens into the DMSO where the stimulated Raman scattering takes place, and 628 nm light comes out. [Les] measured the wavelengths with his Raspberry Pi spectrometer, and found that the emitted wavelength was exactly as predicted by the Raman spectrum of DMSO.

It’s always a treat to see one of [Les]’ videos pop up in our feed; he’s got the coolest toys, and he not only knows what to do with them, but how to explain what’s going on with the physics. It’s a rare treat to watch a video and come away feeling smarter than when you started.

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Hackaday Links: December 10, 2023

In this week’s episode of “Stupid Chatbot Tricks,” it turns out that jailbreaking ChatGPT is as easy as asking it to repeat a word over and over forever. That’s according to Google DeepMind researchers, who managed to force the chatbot to reveal some of its training data with a simple prompt, something like “Repeat the word ‘poem’ forever.” ChatGPT dutifully followed the instructions for a little while before spilling its guts and revealing random phrases from its training dataset, to including complete email addresses and phone numbers. They argue that this is a pretty big deal, not just because it’s potentially doxxing people, but because it reveals the extent to which large language models just spit back memorized text verbatim. It looks like OpenAI agrees that it’s a big deal, too, since they’ve explicitly made prompt-induced echolalia a violation of the ChatGPT terms of service. Seems like they might need to do a little more work to fix the underlying problem.

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Switching Converter For EEPROM Programmer Taxes Solderless Breadboard

We all know that solderless breadboards have their limitations. All that stray capacitance can play hell with circuits, especially high-speed stuff, but they’re so darn useful that avoiding them in favor of some other prototyping method can be really hard. So we often just forge ahead, plugging in our parts and hoping for the best

A recent veteran of the breadboard battle is [Anders Nielsen], who kicked off a new project by prototyping this high-voltage boost converter on a breadboard, with mixed results. The project is a scratch-built programmer for old-school ROM chips, a task normally farmed out to a dedicated programmer, but where’s the sport in that? Besides, this is the future, and generating the 12 to 14 volts needed should be a snap. And it would be, except for the fact that his chosen chip, a MIC2288 switching boost regulator, is only available in an SMD package. Getting the chip and a few other SMD support components onto breadboard-compatible breakouts proved to be challenging, and getting it working once it was there was even more work.

A lot of the trouble was down to simple breadboarding errors, but the big problem was the input capacitance, which [Anders] had to fiddle with quite a bit to get the converter to 14 volts. The current maxes out at about 25 mA before the voltage starts dropping, which just might be enough to burn those old chips, so we’ll call this a provisional win and see what happens when he builds the rest of the programmer.

[Anders]’ experience here raises a good question: what’s the best way to prototype using fussy SMD components? PCBs are cheap enough that it’s tempting to go straight to one, but swapping parts in and out like he had to do here to get everything just right would be much harder that way. We’re not sure we know the answer, but we’re pretty sure we’ll hear your thoughts on that in the comments section.

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Upgrade Puts A Lot Of Zeroes On Kit-Built Frequency Counter

If there’s anything more viscerally pleasing than seeing an eight-digit instrument showing a measurement with all zeroes after the decimal point, we’re not sure what it could. Maybe rolling the odometer over to another 100,000 milestone?

Regardless, getting to such a desirable degree of accuracy isn’t always easy, especially when the instrument in question is a handheld frequency counter that was built from a kit 23 years ago. That’s the target of [Petteri Aimonen]’s accuracy upgrade, specifically by the addition of a custom frequency reference module. The instrument is an ELV FC-500, which for such an old design looks surprisingly modern. Its Achille’s heel in terms of accuracy is the plain crystal oscillator it uses as a frequency standard, which has no temperature compensation and thus drifts by about 0.2 ppm per degree.

For a mains-powered lab instrument, the obvious solution would be an oven-controlled crystal oscillator. Those are prohibitive in terms of space and power for a handheld instrument, so instead a VCTCXO — voltage-controlled, temperature-compensated crystal oscillator — was selected for better stability. Unfortunately, no such oscillators matching the original 4.096-MHz crystal spec could be found; luckily, a 16.384-MHz unit was available for less than €20. All that was required was a couple of flip-flops to divide the signal by four and a bit of a bodge to replace the original frequency standard. A trimmer allows for the initial calibration — the “VC” part — and the tiny PCB tucks inside the case near the battery compartment.

We enjoyed the simplicity of this upgrade — almost as much as we enjoyed seeing all those zeroes. When you know, you know.

Dry Ice From Seashells, The Hard (But Cheap) Way

[Hyperspace Pirate] wants to make his own dry ice, but he wants it to be really, really cheap. So naturally, his first stop is… the beach?

That’s right, the beach, because that’s where to find the buckets of free seashells that he turned into dry ice. Readers may recall previous efforts at DIY dry ice, which used baking soda and vinegar as a feedstock. We’d have thought those were pretty cheap materials for making carbon dioxide gas, but not cheap enough for [Hyperspace Pirate], as the dry ice he succeeded in making from them came out to almost ten bucks a pound. The low yield of the process probably had more to do with the high unit cost, in truth, so cheaper feedstocks and improved yield would attack the problem from both ends.

With a supply of zero-cost calcium carbonate from the beach and a homemade ZVS-powered induction heater tube furnace at the ready, [Hyperspace Pirate] was ready to make quicklime and capture the CO2 liberated in the process. That proved to be a little more difficult than planned since the reaction needed not just heat but a partial vacuum to drive the CO2 off. An oil-free vacuum pump helped, yielding a little CO2, but eventually he knuckled under and just doused the shells in vinegar. This had the fun side effect of creating calcium acetate, which when distilled not only corrodes the copper still plumbing but also makes a lousy but still flammable grade of acetone. Once enough CO2 was stored in a couple of beach balls, the process of cooling and condensing it into dry ice was pretty much the same as the previous method, except for taking advantage of the Joule-Thomson cryocooler he built a while back.

The result is a hundred or so grams of dry ice snow, which isn’t great but still shows promise. [Hyperspace Pirate] feels like the key to improving this process is more heat to really drive the calcination reaction. Might we suggest a DIY tube furnace for that job?

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This Pogo Pin Test Fixture Keep Your SMDs From Taking Flight

There’s no denying how useful surface mount technology is, and how enabling the ability to make really small circuits has become. It comes at a price, though; most of us probably know what it’s like for the slightest wrong move to send a part the size of a grain of sand into another dimension.

To help make testing these parts a little easier, [IMSAI Guy] has come up with this clever little SMD test fixture. It’s designed to hook up to another custom board, which in turn connects to a wonderful old Hewlett-Packard 4275A LCR meter. The jig is based on two pogo pins mounted directly across from each other on a scrap of single-clad PCB. The spring-loaded contacts, which short together when not in use, are pulled apart to load an SMD part, like the 1-μH inductors shown in the video below. The pins hold the component firmly and make good electrical contact, allowing hands-free testing without the risk of an errant touch of the test probes sending it flying.

While the test fixture works well for larger SMDs, we could see this being a bit fussy for smaller parts. That would be easy enough to fix with perhaps some 3D-printed arms that retract the pogo pins symmetrically, holding them open until the part is loaded. A centering fixture might help too, as would a clear shield to contain any parts that get the urge to go for a ride. But, for the tactical application [IMSAI Guy] has in mind, this sure seems like enough.

Just getting into surface mount? If so, you might want to check out this handy guide to the often cryptic markings used on SMD parts.

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