A 1930s Ham Station

[Mikrowave1] wanted to build an authentic 1930s-style ham radio station that was portable. He’s already done a regenerative receiver, but now he’s starting on a tube transmitter that runs on batteries. He’s settled on a popular design for the time, a Jones push-pull transmitter. Despite the tubes, it will only put out a few watts, which is probably good for the batteries which, at the time, wouldn’t have been like modern batteries. You can see the kickoff video below.

According to the video, these kinds of radios were popular with expeditions to exotic parts of the world. He takes a nostalgic look back at some of the radios and antennas used in some of those expeditions.

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Building A Multi-Purpose Electrochemistry Device

We don’t get enough electrochemistry hacks on these pages, so here’s [Markus Bindhammer] of YouTube/Marb’s lab fame to give us a fix with their hand-built general-purpose electrochemistry device.

The basic structure is made from plyboard cut to size on a table saw and glued’n’screwed together. The top and front are constructed from an aluminium sheet bent to shape with a hand-bender. A laser-printed front panel finishes the aesthetic nicely, contrasting with the shiny aluminium. The electrode holders are part of off-the-shelf chemistry components, with the electrical contacts hand-made from components usually used for constructing stair handrails. Inside, a 500 RPM 12 V DC geared motor is mounted, driving a couple of small magnets. A PWM motor speed controller provides power. This allows a magnetic stirrer to be added for relevant applications. Power for the electrochemical cell is courtesy of a Zk-5KX buck-boost power supply with a range of 0 – 36 V at up to 5 A  with both CV and CC modes. A third electrode holder is also provided as a reference electrode for voltammetry applications. A simple and effective build, we reckon!

Over the years, we’ve seen a few electrochemical hacks, like this DIY electroplating pen, a DIY electrochemical machining rig, and finally, a little something about 3D printing metal electrochemically.

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Where Do You Connect The Shield?

When it comes to polarizing and confusing questions in electronics, wiring up shields is on the top-10 list when sorted by popularity. It’s a question most of us need to figure out at some point – when you place a USB socket symbol on your schematic, where do you wire up the SHIELD and MP pins?

Once you look it up, you will find Eevblog forum threads with dozens of conflicting replies, Stackexchange posts with seven different responses plus a few downvoted ones, none of them accepted, and if you try to consult the literature, the answer will invariably be “it depends”.

I’m not a connector-ground expert, I just do a fair bit of both reading and hacking. Still, I’ve been trying to figure out this debate, for a couple years now, re-reading the forum posts each time I started a new schematic with a yet-unfamiliar connector. Now, of course, coming to this question with my own bias, here’s a summary you can fall back on.

Consumer Ports

Putting HDMI on your board? First of all, good luck. Then, consider – do you have a reason to avoid connecting the shield? If not, certainly connect the shield to ground, use jumpers if that’s what makes you comfortable, though there’s a good argument that you should just connect directly, too. The reason is simple: a fair few HDMI cables omit GND pin connections, fully relying on the shield for return currents. When your HDMI connection misfires, you don’t want to be debugging your HDMI transmitter settings when the actual No Signal problem, as unintuitive as it sounds, will be simply your shield not being grounded – like BeagleBone and Odroid didn’t in the early days. By the way, is a DVI-D to HDMI adapter not working for you? Well, it might just be that it’s built in a cheap way and doesn’t connect the shields of the two sockets together – which is fixable.

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Review: IFixit’s FixHub May Be The Last Soldering Iron You Ever Buy

Like many people who solder regularly, I decided years ago to upgrade from a basic iron and invest in a soldering station. My RadioShack digital station has served me well for the better part of 20 years. It heats up fast, tips are readily available, and it’s a breeze to dial in whatever temperature I need. It’s older than both of my children, has moved with me to three different homes, and has outlived two cars and one marriage (so far, anyway).

When I got this, Hackaday still used B&W pictures.

As such, when the new breed of “smart” USB-C soldering irons started hitting the scene, I didn’t find them terribly compelling. Oh sure, I bought a Pinecil. But that’s because I’m an unrepentant open source zealot and love the idea that there’s a soldering iron running a community developed firmware. In practice though, I only used the thing a few times, and even then it was because I needed something portable. Using it at home on the workbench? It just never felt up to the task of daily use.

So when iFixit got in contact a couple weeks back and said they had a prototype USB-C soldering iron they wanted me to take a look at, I was skeptical to say the least. But then I started reading over the documentation they sent over, and couldn’t deny that they had some interesting ideas. For one, it was something of a hybrid iron. It was portable when you needed it to be, yet offered the flexibility and power of a station when you were at the bench.

Even better, they were planning on putting their money where their mouth is. The hardware was designed with repairability in mind at every step. Not only was it modular and easy to open up, but the company would be providing full schematics, teardown guides, and spare parts.

Alright, fine. Now you’ve got my attention.

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Lithium-Ion Battery Hotswapping, Polarity, Holders

Everyone loves, and should respect, lithium-ion batteries. They pack a ton of power and can make our projects work better. I’ve gathered a number of tips and tricks about using them over the years, based on my own hacking and also lessons I’ve learned from others.

This installment includes a grab-bag of LiIon tricks that will help you supercharge your battery use, avoid some mistakes, and make your circuits even safer. Plus, I have a wonderful project that I just have to share.

Hot-swapping Cells

When your device runs out of juice, you might not always want to chain yourself to a wall charger. Wouldn’t it be cool if you could just hot-swap cells? Indeed it is, I’ve been doing it for years, it’s dead simple to support, but you can also do it wrong. Let me show you how to do it right!

Recently, a new handheld has hit the hacker markets – the Hackberry Pi. With a Blackberry keyboard and a colour screen, it’s a pretty standard entry into the trend of handheld Pi Zero-backed computers with Blackberry keyboards. It’s not open-source and the author does not plan to open-source its hardware, so I want to make it absolutely clear I don’t consider it hacker-friendly or worth promoting. It did publish schematics, though, and these helped me find a dangerous mistake that the first revision made when trying to implement LiIon battery hot-swap. Continue reading “Lithium-Ion Battery Hotswapping, Polarity, Holders”

The Apple Watch As An Ammeter

Your shiny new personal electronic device is likely to be designed solely as an app platform to run the products of faceless corporations, so the story goes, and therefore has an ever smaller hacking potential. Perhaps that view is needlessly pessimistic, because here’s [JP3141] with an example that goes against the grain. It’s an Apple Watch, being used as an ammeter. How it does that comes as the result of a delicious piece of lateral thinking.

Like many mobile devices, the device comes with a magnetometer. This serves as an electronic compass, but it’s also as its name might suggest, an instrument for sensing magnetic fields in three axes. With a 3D printed bobbin that slides over the watch, and a few turns of wire, it can sense the magnetic field created by the current, and a measurement can be derived from it. The software on the watch is only a simple proof of concept as yet, but it applies some fairly understandable high-school physics to provide a useful if unexpected measure of current.

We’re surprised to see just how many times the Apple Watch has appeared on these pages, but scanning past projects it was a cosmetic one which caught our eye. Who wouldn’t want a tiny Mac Classic!

Assessing The Energy Efficiency Of Programming Languages

Programming languages are generally defined as a more human-friendly way to program computers than using raw machine code. Within the realm of these languages there is a wide range of how close the programmer is allowed to get to the bare metal, which ultimately can affect the performance and efficiency of the application. One metric that has become more important over the years is that of energy efficiency, as datacenters keep growing along with their power demand. If picking one programming language over another saves even 1% of a datacenter’s electricity consumption, this could prove to be highly beneficial, assuming it weighs up against all other factors one would consider.

There have been some attempts over the years to put a number on the energy efficiency of specific programming languages, with a paper by Rui Pereira et al. from 2021 (preprint PDF) as published in Science of Computer Programming covering the running a couple of small benchmarks, measuring system power consumption and drawing conclusions based on this. When Hackaday covered the 2017 paper at the time, it was with the expected claim that C is the most efficient programming language, while of course scripting languages like JavaScript, Python and Lua trailed far behind.

With C being effectively high-level assembly code this is probably no surprise, but languages such as C++ and Ada should see no severe performance penalty over C due to their design, which is the part where this particular study begins to fall apart. So what is the truth and can we even capture ‘efficiency’ in a simple ranking?

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