Making Old Computers Count To A Million

How fast can you count to a million? It would probably take you a while. A computer could certainly do it faster. Indeed, the The National Museum of Computing figured it could actually prove to be a simple but useful benchmark for comparing computers over many eras and architectures. Thus was born the Million Measure.

The intention was to develop a benchmark that could run on just about anything considered a “computer.” As explained in a recent talk, the Million Measure can be run quite simply on anything from an ancient World War II computer like Colossus, to a modern Raspberry Pi. There are no complicated algorithms that need optimization, nor architecture-specific code required to do the job. The museum also found it to be a useful way to figure out which computers in their collection were actually working at any given time. Early computers from the mid-20th century reported benchmark times in minutes, while a 1995 BeBox is the fastest machine tested so far at 0.004 seconds.

It’s not a particularly useful measure for modern machines, which are so fast as to make the test difficult to parse in an intuitive way. But if you’re working with today’s hardware, there are other techniques you can use. Video after the break.

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Epson HX-20 Gets A Drive Upgrade

The Epson HX-20 is sometimes referred to as an early laptop computer. It’s a little odd in its form factor, and in its storage, relying on a microcassette drive to store data. It can be problematic to keep these tapes and drives going after so many decades, so [Andrew Menadue] has been tinkering with a more modern solution.

The replacement drive uses a Raspberry Pi Pico to emulate the original tape drive. The Pico uses a microSD card to store data instead of the magnetic media of old. The device has a small screen for showing status information and four buttons for navigation, allowing the faux drive to be controlled as to what “tape” it’s pretending to be. It’s also possible to use the device to emulate ROM cartridges that could be used with the HX-20 in place of its original tape deck storage solution.

We’ve seen some other old hardware get similar drive upgrades before, too. No surprise, because mechanical drives and media simply don’t last forever. Sometimes you need to build a replacement that’s viable today. Video after the break.

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Making An Ultra Minimal Cyberdeck

The cool thing about cyberdecks is that you get to design them to suit your personal tastes. [NickZero] wanted an ultra-minimal build, and set about putting together just that.

The build is based around a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W, which has a lighter power draw than the full-fat models at the trade-off of some processing power. Since it’s a W model, it has the benefit of wireless connectivity baked in from the factory. The Pi is paired with a Gherkin 30% layout keyboard kit, which neatly matches the 7″ Waveshare touch display in width. Power is courtesy of a juicy 4000 mAh lithium-ion cell, which is taken care of by an Adafruit Powerboost 1000 charger module. Everything is then laced up together inside a nifty 3D printed case.

It’s a simple cyberdeck, and one that’s probably quite satisfying to use when you get used to the fact that there are no number or modifier keys on the ultra-cut-down keyboard. It’s also a great example of how a bunch of off-the-shelf gear can nonetheless be assembled into quite a cohesive whole. In much the opposite way, we’ve seen some maximalist cyberdeck builds lately, too.

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Creating Beautiful Light Shows With Soap

We feature a lot of fun projects with LEDs and lasers and all kinds of light effects going on. Most of these are very digital. However, there are a great many ways to make beautiful lighting effects without ones and zeros. The Maelstrom Lamp from [Michele Lorenzi] is a great example of that.

The Maelstrom Lamp is externally decorated to indicate its function. 

The concept is decidedly old-school. The lamp uses a delicate, thin soap film stretched across an aperture as its primary optical element. The varying thickness of the film across its surface leads to constructive and destructive interference when white light passes through it. This creates a kaleidoscope of color; the same effect you might have seen when an oil slick forms in a dirty puddle.

In this case, though, that effect is projected with the aid of a powerful 800-lumen flashlight and some supporting optics. [Michele]’s write-up does a great job of explaining the finer design details that maximize the vibrancy of the effect, from the waviness in the gasket that supports the soap film, to the optics that focus the torch beam.

If you’re looking for some suitably psychedelic lighting effects for your next house party, you really ought to build one of these. We’ve featured some other fun classic lighting effects before, like these wonderful bubble lamps. Continue reading “Creating Beautiful Light Shows With Soap”

Running Modern Linux On A 68008

Linux developers have been trimming the fluff in recent years, removing support for older processors that hardly anyone uses with a modern kernel anymore. With that said, it’s possible to run the latest kernel on some truly old metal. As a case in point, [Colin Maykish] just got it going on a Motorola 68008!

The rig in question is a Mackerel-68k—a homebrew single-board computer built around Motorola’s famous 68000 CPU line. This version in particular is running a 68008 rated at 8 MHz, though it’s overclocked to 14 MHz for a little more pep, and has just 3.5 MB of RAM. Despite these limitations, the board can run the mainline v7.1-rc6 kernel, booting into userspace and providing a very minimalistic BusyBox shell. Booting is slow, and doing much more than that is impossible without running out of RAM, but it’s an impressive feat nonetheless. [Colin] has also had the 68010 and 68030 chips running the kernel, too.

We’ve previously discussed efforts to bring Linux into the future while leaving old chips behind. Video after the break.

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Running Windows NT On The Nintendo Gamecube

The Nintendo GameCube is known for playing the best version of Smash Bros. and its vaguely rectangular aesthetic. It’s not particularly known for running a workstation OS from the mid-1990s. However, with a little work, your diminutive purple console could also boot up Windows NT if you really wanted it to.

You’ll want a controller that looks *like* this, but not this exact model—because [Jiga Tech] couldn’t get this keyboard controller to work with the ported version of Windows NT.
This is fundamentally possible because, once upon a time, Microsoft built a PowerPC version of Windows NT. The work to make it compatible with the GameCube was performed by a group of contributors—[Rairii], [NTx86], and [stonedDiscord]—with the resulting port made available on Github. It won’t just run on the GameCube, either. You can also boot it on the Wii, and within the Wii-U’s vWii mode, as well.

If you’re interested in seeing what this looks like, there’s a great video from [Jiga Tech] on YouTube that outlines the install process. Just note that the GameCube never really came with a proper keyboard. If you want textual input, you’ll have to fuss with a range of controller-entry methods, or get one of the rare GameCube controllers that had an entire keyboard in the middle. We’re not even kidding, they did exist.

If you’re still obsessed with this generation of consoles, consider trying to order pizza from your Sega Dreamcast. Video after the break.

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Building A Panel Mount OLED Display

There are a million and one cheap OLED display modules out there. The only problem is, they’re all assembled on bare PCBs with slight differences, and that frustrates efforts to mount them in a clean and tidy manner. [Galopago] decided to build a small OLED module that solved this frustrating problem.

The idea to pursue this came from off-the-shelf panel displays commonly used for power supply builds and other such equipment. These come in relatively standard sizes and are designed from the outset to slot neatly into a panel with a bezel that covers any ugly edges or awkward gaps.

The build began with a 48 x 29 mm enclosure grabbed from an off-the-shelf power panel meter. There are two PCBs—one holding the regulator and other equipment to run the display, the other carrying a set of screw terminals that make it easy to wire up the display to a piece of equipment. The SSD1306-compatible OLED screen itself connects to the first board with a flat flex cable, as is the norm.

If you find yourself often wanting to pop a small display into a piece of custom test equipment, this might be relevant to your interests. Files are on GitHub for the curious.

We’ve featured some other fun OLED hacks over the years, like this interesting effort to whip up displays from scratch in a home lab. If you’ve got nifty usability hacks of your own in the works, don’t hesitate to let us know.