[Japhy Riddle] was tired of creating pixel art. He went to subpixel art. The idea is that since each color pixel is composed of three subpixels, your display is actually three times as dense as you think it is. As long as you don’t care about the colors, of course.
Is it practical? No, although it is related to the Bayer filter algorithm and font antialiasing. You can also use subpixel manipulation to hide messages in plain sight.
Here’s a design for a split-flap clock that doesn’t do it the usual way. Instead of the flaps showing numbers , Klapklok has a bit more in common with flip-dot displays.
It’s an art piece that uses custom-made split-flaps which flutter away to update the display as time passes. An array of vertically-mounted flaps creates a sort of low-res display, emulating an analog clock. These are no ordinary actuators, either. The visual contrast and cleanliness of the mechanism is fantastic, and the sound they make is less of a chatter and more of a whisper.
The sound the flaps create and the sight of the high-contrast flaps in motion are intended to be a relaxing and calming way to connect with the concept of time passing. There’s some interactivity built in as well, as the Klapklok also allows one to simply draw on it wirelessly with via a mobile phone.
Klapklok has a total of 69 elements which are all handmade. We imagine there was really no other way to get exactly what the designer had in mind; something many of us can relate to.
Split-flap mechanisms are wonderful for a number of reasons, and if you’re considering making your own be sure to check out this easy and modular DIY reference design before you go about re-inventing the wheel. On the other hand, if you do wish to get clever about actuators maybe check out this flexible PCB that is also its own actuator.
Continue reading “Split-Flap Clock Flutters Its Way To Displaying Time Without Numbers”
Lenz’s Law is one of those physics tricks that look like magic if you don’t understand what’s happening. [Seth Robinson] was inspired by the way eddy currents cause a cylindrical neodymium magnet to levitate inside a rotating copper tube, so he cast a spherical copper cage to levitate a magnetic sphere.
Metal casting is an art form that might seem simple at first, but is very easy to screw up. Fortunately [Seth] has significant experience in the field, especially lost-PLA metal casting. While the act of casting is quick, the vast majority of the work is in the preparation process. Video after the break.
[Seth] started by designing and 3D printing a truncated icosahedron (basically a low-poly sphere) in two interlocking halves and adding large sprues to each halve. Over a week, the PLA forms were repeatedly coated in layers of ceramic slurry and silica sand, creating a thick shell around them. The ceramic forms were then heated to melt and pour out the PLA and fired at 870°C/1600°F to achieve full hardness.
With the molds prepared, the molten copper is poured into them and allowed to cool. To avoid damaging the soft copper parts when breaking away the mold, [Seth] uses a sandblaster to cut it away sections. The quality of the cast parts is so good that 3D-printed layer lines are visible in the copper, but hours of cleanup and polishing are still required to turn them into shiny parts. Even without the physics trick, it’s a work of art. A 3d printed plug with a brass shaft was added on each side, allowing the assembly to spin on a 3D-printed stand.
[Seth] placed a 2″ N52 neodymium spherical magnet inside, and when spun at the right speed, the magnet levitated without touching the sides. Unfortunately, this effect doesn’t come across super clearly on video, but we have no doubt it would make for a fascinating display piece and conversation starter.
Using and abusing eddy currents makes for some very interesting projects, including hoverboards and magnetic torque transfer on a bicycle.
Continue reading “Levitating Magnet In A Spherical Copper Cage”
Most of us have made paper airplanes at one time or another, but rather than stopping at folded paper, [VirgileC] graduated to 3D printing them out of PLA. Then the obvious question is: can you cast one in cement? The answer is yes, you can, but note that the question was not: can a cement plane fly? The answer to that is no, it can’t.
Of course, you could use this to model things other than non-flying airplanes. The key is using alginate, a natural polymer derived from brown seaweed, to form the mold. The first step was to suspend the PLA model in a flowerpot with the holes blocked. Next, the flowerpot gets filled with alginate.
After a bit, you can remove the PLA from the molding material by cutting it and then reinserting it into the flower pot. However, you don’t want it to dry out completely as it tends to deform. With some vibration, you can fill the entire cavity with cement.
The next day, it was possible to destroy the alginate mold and recover the cement object inside. However, the cement will still be somewhat wet, so you’ll want to let the part dry further.
Usually, we see people print the mold directly using flexible filament. If you don’t like airplanes, maybe that’s a sign.
Marble machines are a fun and challenging reason to do engineering for the sake of engineering. [Engineezy] adds some color to the theme, building a machine to create 16×16 marble images automatically. (Video embedded below.)
The core problem was devising ways to sort, lift, place, and dump marbles in their correct positions without losing their marbles—figuratively and literally. Starting with color detection, [Engineezy] used an RGB color sensor and Euclidian math to determine each marble’s color. After trying several different mechanical sorting mechanisms, he settled on a solenoid and servo-actuated dump tube to drop the marble into the appropriate hopper.
After sorting, he faced challenges with designing a mechanism to transport marbles from the bottom hoppers to the top of the machine. While paddle wheels seemed promising at first, they tended to jam—a problem solved by innovating with Archimedes screws that move marbles up smoothly without clogs. The marbles are pushed into clear tubes on either side of the machine, providing a clear view of their parade to the top.
Perhaps most ingenious is his use of constant-force springs as a flexible funnel to guide the marbles to a moving slider that drops them into the correct column of the display. When a picture is complete, sliding doors open on the bottom of the columns, dumping the marbles into a chain lift which feeds them into the sorting section. Each of the mechanisms has a mirrored version of the other side, so the left and right halves of the display operate independently.
The final product is slow, satisfying and noisy kinetic testament to [Engineezy]’s perseverance through countless iterations and hiccups.
Marble machines can range from minimalist to ultra-complex musical monstrosities, but never fail to tickle our engineering minds. Continue reading “Automated Pixel Art With Marbles”
[3DPrintBunny] is someone who continually explores new techniques and designs in 3D printing, and her latest is one she calls “pause-and-attach”, which she demonstrates by printing a vase design with elements of the design splayed out onto the print bed.
At a key point, the print is paused and one peels up the extended bits, manually attaching them to sockets on the main body of the print. Then the print resumes and seals everything in. The result is something that appears to defy the usual 3D printer constraints, as you can see here.
Pausing a 3D print to insert hardware (like nuts or magnets) is one thing, but we can’t recall seeing anything quite like this approach. It’s a little bit reminiscent of printing foldable structures to avoid supports in that it prints all of its own self-connecting elements, but at the same time it’s very different.
We’ve seen [3DPrintBunny]’s innovative approaches before with intentional stringing used as a design element and like the rest of her work, it’s both highly visual and definitely it’s own thing. You can see the whole process in a video she posted to social media, embedded below.
Continue reading “See The “Pause-and-Attach” Technique For 3D Printing In Action”
[Ben] may be 15 years old, but he’s got the knack for 3D printing and artistic mechanical design. When you see his 3D-printed mechanical jellyfish lamp, we think you’ll agree. Honestly, it is hardly fair to call it a lamp. It is really — as [Ben] points out — a kinetic sculpture.
One of the high points of the post is the very detailed documentation. Not only is everything explained, but there is quite a bit of background information on jellyfish, different types of gears, and optimizing 3D prints along with information on how to recreate the sculpture.
There is quite a bit of printing, including the tentacles. There are a few options, like Arduino-controlled LEDs. However, the heart of the operation is a geared motor.
All the design files for 3D printing and the Arduino code are in the post. There’s also a remote control. The design allows you to have different colors for various pieces and easily swap them with a screwdriver.
One major concern was how noisy the thing would be with a spinning motor. According to [Ben], the noise level is about 33 dB, which is about what a whisper sounds like. However, he mentions you could consider using ball bearings, quieter motors, or different types of gears to get the noise down even further.
We imagine this jellyfish will come in at well under $6 million. If you don’t want your jellyfish to be art, maybe you’d prefer one that creates art.
