Parts

618 Articles

Friendly Flexible Circuits: The Cables

February 7, 2024 by 18 Comments

Flexible cables and flex PCBs are wonderful. You could choose to carefully make a cable bundle out of ten wires and try to squish them to have a thin footprint – or you could put an FFC connector onto your board and save yourself a world of trouble. If you want to have a lot of components within a cramped non-flat area, you could carefully design a multitude of stuff FR4 boards and connect them together – or you could make an FPC.

Flexible cables in particular can be pretty wonderful for all sorts of moving parts. They transfer power and data to the scanner head in your flat-bed scanner, for instance.  But they’re in fixed parts too.  If you have a laptop or a widescreen TV, chances are, there’s an flexible cable connecting the motherboard with one or multiple daughterboards – or even a custom-made flexible PCB. Remember all the cool keypad and phones we used to have, the ones that would have the keyboard fold out or slide out, or even folding Nokia phones that had two screens and did cool things with those? All thanks to flexible circuits! Let’s learn a little more about what we’re working with here.

FFC and FPC, how are these two different? FFC (Flexible Flat Cable) is a pre-made cable. You’ve typically seen them as white plastic cables with blue pieces on both ends, they’re found in a large number of devices that you could disassemble, and many things use them, like the Raspberry Pi Camera. They are pretty simple to produce – all in all, they’re just flat straight conductors packaged nicely into a very thin cable, and that’s why you can buy them pre-made in tons of different pin pitches and sizes. If you need one board to interface with another board, putting an FFC connector on your board is a pretty good idea.

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Why Not Try A DIAC?

February 3, 2024 by 31 Comments

There are plenty of electronic components which were once ubiquitous but once the niche which led to their existence has passed, they fade away to remain a junkbox curio. The DIAC is the subject of a recent ElectronicsNotes video, and while it might not quite yet have slid into total obscurity yet it’s definitely not the most common of parts in 2023.

If you’ve encountered one it will almost certainly be in the trigger circuit of a lighting dimmer or motor controller, where its bidirectional breakover makes for symmetrical control of a triac gate. This extremely simple circuit allows for perfect control of AC-powered devices, and could once be found everywhere. Its demise over recent years tells an interesting story of our changing use of electricity, as not only have other devices such as smart lights and brushless motors appeared which preclude traditional dimmers, but also we now demand better RF performance from our lighting controls.

The DIAC is still a handy part to know about, and you can take a look at the video below the break. We would normally try to link to another Hackaday story using a DIAC, but is it telling that we couldn’t find one? If you can, link it in the comments!

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Tricky 3D Printed Joinery Problem? Give Heat Staking A Try

February 3, 2024 by 15 Comments

When you just can’t 3D print something as a monolithic part, you’re going to have to join pieces together. In such cases, most of us instinctively include threaded inserts or nut slots in the design, or even reach for a tube of CA glue. But perhaps you should be thinking more along the lines of heat-staking your printed parts together.

Although you might not be familiar with the term, if you’ve looked inside anything made out of plastic, chances are good you’ve seen a heat-staked joint. As [Richard Sewell] explains, a heat-staked joint is nothing more than the classic mortise-and-tenon made from plastic where the tenon stands proud of the joint face so it can be softened with heat. The tenon spreads out so the joint can’t be pulled apart. A variant on the theme includes a mortise with a generous chamfer so the melted tenon can spread out, providing not only extra resistance to pull-out be also a more flush surface.

To melt the joint, [Richard] simply uses a soldering iron and a little pressure. To spread out both the heat and the force a bit, he uses the barrel of the iron rather than a tip, although we could see a broad chisel tip being used for smaller joints. Either way, a layer of Kapton tape helps keep the iron from getting gunked up with melted plastic. [Richard] lists a host of advantages for this kind of plastic joinery, including eliminating the need for additional hardware. But we think the best feature of this joint is that by avoiding monolithic prints, each aspect of a part can have its layer lines optimized.

While it probably isn’t applicable everywhere, heat-staking looks like a technique to keep in mind. We’d love to see [Stefan] over at CNC Kitchen do some of his testing magic on these joints, like he did for threaded inserts.

Multi-way Capacitor Replacement Without The Pain

February 1, 2024 by 20 Comments

Anyone who’s worked with older tube-based equipment will be familiar with the type of vintage electrolytic capacitor which integrated several capacitors into one can. Long obsolete, they can be bought as reproduction, but unfortunately at an eye-watering price. [D-Lab Electronics] introduces us to a solution using a very useful kit, that it’s worth sharing.

The piece of equipment in the video below the break is a rather lovely Heathkit oscillator, following the familiar phase shift model with a light bulb in its feedback loop. It’s a piece of test equipment that produces a low-distortion sine wave output, and would still be of use to an audio engineer today. He replaces the capacitor with two modern ones on a multi-cap board from [W8AOR], who sells a variety of these kits for different configurations.

We’ve done this very repair more than once, and it has usually involved wiring, heatshrink sleeving, hot glue, and cable ties, looking very messy indeed. It’s not that often that a kit catches our eye as this one has, but we know we’ll be finding it useful here some time in the future. Meanwhile if you’d like to know why this oscillator has a light bulb, take a look at our piece on distortion.

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Eliminate That Pesky Power-Only USB Cable With This Cable Tester

February 1, 2024 by 12 Comments

Ever wondered why your Arduino wasn’t programming, only to find out that the cable doesn’t have any data conductors? Worry not, [Spencer Maroukis] has got you covered with the USB Sleuth Cable Tester!

The cable tester is a beautiful black circular PCB, with USB ports of nearly every type on the edges. It works partially through passive detection with LEDs and otherwise through active detection of things like the orientation with an STM32 powered by a coin cell battery. But it gets better: There are disconnect switches and exposed pads to test some of the conductors with a digital multimeter!

It may not be necessary for all of us, but one thing is clear: When you needed a good USB cable, you wished you had this to actually test it. The design is open-source too, which is definitely nice if you want one for yourself.

Meanwhile this isn’t the first USB cable tester we’ve seen here.

Ballpoint Switch Is Oh-So Satisfying

January 28, 2024 by 8 Comments

Alright, here’s your quick and dirty hack for the day. The astute among you may recall [Peter Waldraff]’s bookshelf train build of a few days ago, and the fact that he used a switch made from a dead ballpoint pen to light up the scene. Fortunately, [Peter] wrote in to give us the details of this low-voltage sub-build, which you can see in the video after the break.

Essentially, [Peter] starts by making a shortened version of the pen. He modifies nearly every bit of it, including cutting down the ink cartridge, so if you try this, make sure the thing is all dried up first. Then, as he is screwing the point holder back on the barrel, he wraps elastic cord around the inside barrel in lieu of having sewing thread lying around. This cord along with some hot glue will hold a pair of paper clips to the sides of the point holder. When the pen is clicked into the writing position, it makes a connection between the paper clips and closes the circuit on whatever is wired into it.

What types of little hacks like this have gotten you through the build? Let us know in the comments, or better yet, write it up and drop us a tip. By the way, here is that bookshelf train build in case you missed it.

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Lorenz Attractor Analog Computer With Octave Simulation

January 28, 2024 by 2 Comments

[Janis Alnis] wanted to build an analog computer circuit and bought some multiplier chips. The first attempt used apparently fake chips that were prone to overheating. He was able to get it to work and also walked through some Octave (a system similar to Matlab) simulations for the circuit. You can follow along in the video below.

Getting the little multiplier chips into the breadboard was a bit of a challenge. Of course, there are a variety of ways to solve that problem. The circuit in question is from the always interesting [Glen’s Stuff] website.

From that site:

The Lorenz system, originally discovered by American mathematician and meteorologist, Edward Norton Lorenz, is a system that exhibits continuous-time chaos and is described by three coupled, ordinary differential equations.

So, the circuit is an analog solution to the system of differential equations. Not bad for a handful of chips and some discrete components on a breadboard. We’ve seen a similar circuit on Hackaday.io.

Check out our recent competition winners if you want to see op amps do their thing. Analog computers were a thing. They aren’t always that complicated, either.

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