The Different Ways To Look At Negative Resistance

September 8, 2026 by Donald Papp 22 Comments

[lcamtuf] has an in-depth look at the concept of negative resistance that goes somewhat further than one might expect. Normally, as voltage across a resistance increases so too does the current. Negative resistance is the concept of current decreasing as voltage increases. But beyond the raw concept, there are a few other ways to look at this idea.

The usual way to think about it is negative differential resistance (NDR). Not everything has a linear relationship between voltage and current, and for a device to exhibit NDR means that in certain ranges the I–V curve actually slopes downward; increasing one of voltage or current decreases the other. This kind of thing occurs in neon lamps. Once they are glowing, increasing current can result in decreasing voltage.

True negative resistance, that of a literal -100 Ω resistor, does not exist. Not in the sense of a passive component, anyway. Such a device would supply power into a circuit rather than dissipating it, and would therefore require an external power source to do so. If that’s not a deal breaker, then it’s actually fairly simple to build one. [lcamtuf] provides a design for a device that uses an op-amp to exhibit ideal constant negative resistance. Naturally it only does so within its operating range; going beyond risks letting out the magic smoke.

Is making a literal negative resistor of practical use? Perhaps only in very specialized situations. But it is worth having a basic understanding if for no other reason than it rears its head in unusual places: the strange tunnel diode comes to mind.

Are Desktop PC-ABS Prints Outperformed By Industrial FDM? Not Really

September 8, 2026 by Donald Papp 18 Comments

[Igor] of [My Tech Fun] set out to discover what differences, if any, can be found between parts printed in PC-ABS filament on an industrial 3D printer, and those from prosumer-grade machines and filament. His video is full of his usual attention to detail as he compares a test suite of parts printed at home in Polymaker PC-ABS with those from a Stratasys Fortus 450mc using proprietary PC-ABS filament.

PC-ABS is a filament that strives to deliver the benefits of both polycarbonate and ABS. It’s durable and has fantastic impact resistance, but it costs a bit more than either PC or ABS and requires a heated chamber.

[Igor] has previously compared industrial ABS with comsumer ABS, but what made him curious about PC-ABS in particular was the large difference in print temperatures between Polymaker PC-ABS, and Stratasys’s own proprietary PC-ABS.

[Igor] prints Polymaker filament at 280º C in a 60-65º C chamber, whereas the Stratasys filament prints at 325º C with a chamber temperature of 95º C. That’s quite a difference. The industrial printer has over double the print time, to boot. Would test objects printed from the industrial filament, on an industrial machine, be noticeably different from those printed at home?

To find out, [Igor] orders a test suite of parts from a company with a Stratasys Fortus 450mc (who was also kind enough to take a short video of the machine in action) and prints his own on both a Prusa Core One L, and a Bambu Labs H2D. He then proceeds to compare them in a variety of ways while testing them to destruction.

What’s the bottom line? The industrial prints have better dimensional accuracy, but the home prints have the edge in appearance. When it comes to performance the differences are mostly minor, and not always in the industrial system’s favor. Broadly speaking, PC-ABS from the home workshop compares very favorably from an expensive industrial system and proprietary filament, at a fraction of the price. See it for yourself in the video, embedded just below.

Continue reading “Are Desktop PC-ABS Prints Outperformed By Industrial FDM? Not Really” →

Voicebox FX Is A Blueprint For CircuitPython I2S Audio

September 5, 2026 by Donald Papp 1 Comment

[Adafruit]’s Voicebox FX gadget is a fun, well-documented project that serves another useful purpose: being a fantastic reference design for audio on CircuitPython, with I²S audio components. Be sure to check it out if you have a project that involves any of that and could use a few pointers, or if you just want to jog a few ideas loose.

I²S (Inter-IC Sound) is a protocol aimed squarely at moving audio data between components as digital signals. Our own [Jenny List] can tell you everything you need to know about I²S. It’s a relatively simple interface that is not at all fussy about actually being used for audio, and that has led to it being put to some unusual uses.

The Voicebox FX uses an I²S microphone, an I²S amplifier, and an RP2350 microcontroller to record and play sound as well as offer a variety of effects controlled by physical inputs. It’s all wrapped up in a slick 3D printed case, and while it’s a fantastic reference design, it looks like a fun toy in its own right.

Continue reading “Voicebox FX Is A Blueprint For CircuitPython I2S Audio” →

Parchment Paper Paired With 3D-Printed Grid Gives A Nice Glow

September 4, 2026 by Donald Papp 14 Comments

This custom enclosure for a 64×64 RGB LED matrix by [Davisan1001] not only provides a mount point for a Raspberry Pi, but presents a clean and smooth face with square pixels thanks to a 3D-printed grid, some parchment paper, and a sheet of clear plastic.

The first clever thing in this design is the way [Davisan1001] created the grid that acts as a light blocker for each LED in the matrix, preventing light from “spilling” over into its neighbors. Instead of designing the grid from scratch, the solution was just to leverage slicer settings. By printing a flat square with a grid pattern infill and zero solid top and bottom layers, the slicer creates the grid all by itself. A little trial and error was required to get the spacing just right, but it seems to have worked out fine. We’re not sure it’s better than designing a grid in CAD, but it was certainly a clever way to avoid having to do so.

[Davisan1001] also struggled to find an effective and economical solution for a diffuser. Certainly, high-quality diffuser films are available for sale, as are specialty acrylic sheets, but surely there was some household DIY option to do the trick. A sheet of plain white paper blocks too much light. Wax paper handles poorly, and off-angle viewing is poor. The sweet spot was parchment paper.

Parchment paper is commonly used in baking and is thin, easy to handle, flat and even in color, and just opaque enough to act as an effective diffuser while still transmitting enough light to not impede clarity. Cover the LED matrix with the 3D-printed grid, lay parchment paper over that, cover with a sheet of clear plastic, and the job is done.

Light diffusion can be tricky to get just right in a DIY project, and what works for one application won’t necessarily work for another. Our community had loads of suggestions on different solutions, so consider this one more idea to try the next time you have a project that calls for it.

3D Printed Cubes Provide Passive Cooling

September 4, 2026 by Donald Papp 36 Comments

Passive evaporative cooling has been used for centuries to reduce temperatures. Heat is drawn off as water evaporates, which in turn reduces temperature. The more efficiently this process happens the greater the temperature differential, and that’s exactly what the 3D-printed structure pictured above aims for. Created at the Graz University of Technology in Austria, the cubes noticeably reduce surrounding air temperature thanks to their careful construction. As long as they’re kept wet, anyway.

The key is exposing the maximum amount of water to the maximum amount of airflow, and there are two ways the prototype cooling wall — which is 3D printed from a special clay mixture — does this.

First, the macro design of the 3D-printed blocks maximizes surface area. If the cube in the image above looks familiar, that’s because it’s the gyroid infill pattern. Gyroid is a porous pattern with no “dead ends” or closed sections, and the fact that it 3D prints cleanly with no supports also makes it an ideal structural candidate.

The second advantage is the clay used for the blocks themselves. Firing clay at a low temperature keeps it porous, but this particular mixture goes even further. It’s a bio-inspired formulation of clay, fungal mycelium, and wood chips. After printing, the cubes are fired and the fungus and wood chips burn away, leaving a network of thread-like capillaries with occasional larger pockets throughout.

The result is a porous ceramic cube with a massive evaporative surface area relative to its size. A practical test in a hot attic showed the air near a water-laden cube was nearly 7º C lower, a noticeable difference.

A home experimenter might not have access to fancy mycelium-laced clay mixtures, but it still strikes us as something that could be tried out at home. After all, clever hackers have successfully made DIY versions of passive cooling paint.

Take Tool Photo, Generate Custom Gridfinity Bin

September 4, 2026 by Donald Papp 23 Comments

What if the organization and storage benefits of tool shadowing could be had and improved with a modular, semi-automated process? Tracefinity attempts that by generating custom Gridfinity bins from photos of tools, and has quite a few nifty features that are worth a look.

Maintaining a library of tools makes it easy to create project-based custom layouts.

The basic workflow is this: place one or more tools on a sheet of paper, take a photo, then upload the photo and have the system trace and save the outline and add it to a private tool library. When one is ready to create some bins, use the library of saved tool outlines to generate custom Gridfinity layouts.

If you’re unfamiliar, Gridfinity is a modular system of standardized bins and baseplates designed with 3D printing in mind, making it an ideal match for highly-customized organization tasks and a particularly natural fit for a tool-tracing system like this one.

The idea of taking a photo of a tool and generating a custom bin is a compelling one, and a couple years ago we covered a project that did just that. Tracefinity seems like a natural evolution of the idea, and includes handy features like easy design adjustments, optional magnet holes, and we really like the concept of a tool library from which individual tools are scanned once then later selected to create specific, project-based layouts.

Tracefinity takes advantage of new software capabilities like machine learning to improve and streamline the tracing process, but that doesn’t mean it relies on any external services. It can be entirely self-hosted and by default uses a local, CPU-friendly object detection model for tool tracing. There is an option to provide a API key to use Google Gemini instead, but it’s not required. It can come in handy for especially complex tool outlines or dealing with non-ideal source photos, however.

Corners Lifting On 3D Prints? Guide Gives Prevention Tips

September 3, 2026 by Donald Papp 17 Comments

Large prints have a risk of warping, by which we mean corners can lift off the print bed as the object sort of curls inward on itself. It’s not always due to poor filament quality or an unclean build plate. Sound like something you’ve dealt with? Check out this handy roundup to understand why it happens, and learn ways to prevent it.

A big flat area with sharp corners is susceptible to warping. Breaking the footprint into a grid pattern helps distribute stresses instead of concentrating them at the corners.

The reason some objects have trouble while others don’t is physics. Deposited plastic shrinks ever so slightly as it cools, and some shapes — like wide, flat surfaces with sharp corners — are worse for this than others. This sort of problem is what the guide addresses with a number of techniques.

Some are simple, like turning on brims which increases an object’s footprint. This increased surface area offers more adhesion, but also increases heat transfer from the print bed into the model, slowing the cooling process. Thinner walls and an altered infill pattern is another option. Other techniques are more complex.

The most effective methods involve modifying the model itself to reduce or eliminate stress points. One such method is to break the model’s footprint into multiple zones with a shallow grid. Instead of one big flat bottom, the object has multiple smaller ones. Because big flat areas are more susceptible to warping than small ones, turning the bottom into a grid pattern helps spread those stresses out and prevent lifting.

If you design your own models, you’ll find several design tips worth keeping in mind. It’s always smart to practice good DFM (Design For Manufacturability) which means taking 3D printer strengths and weaknesses into account when designing an object. In this case, it can help prevent print failures. Good DFM can also make parts much, much stronger just by designing in the right features.