Offloading acceleration and braking to an electric motor in a hybrid configuration allows the less efficient combustion engine run in a more narrow set of RPM and torque ranges. In some cases the motor is decoupled from the mechanical drivetrain entirely and used simply as a generator, where it can run at a single speed all the time. And this concept isn’t limited to passenger vehicles, either. [rctestflight] put this premise to the test using a small knockoff Honda motor as a generator for an electric boat.
This project builds on a previous version where he used a much smaller hobby motor to see if it could generate usable power, and that system powered a small autonomous boat as a proof-of-concept. Those motors aren’t really designed to be used in this sort of application though, so this build upgrades the internal combustion engine and pairs it with an electric skateboard motor that’s configured to run as a generator. The setup is capable of producing almost 800 watts for as long as the gasoline lasts, provided that the 3D printed parts all hold together and the other parts don’t vibrate off of the assembly.
Out on the lake at full throttle, the small generator can get the boat up to seven knots (13 kph) but at this speed [rctestflight] reports that the generator is “quite unpleasant” due to the noise and vibration. Instead, he ran it on a test bench at several RPM and torque points and documented the efficiency of the motor at each one, and then operated the boat mostly at the point he found it to be most efficient. For a hybrid drivetrain, that not only decreases noise and vibration, but also maintenance and fuel efficiency.
Although the energy density of fossil fuels is much better than batteries, a fuel-free long-distance option is still available if you’d rather equip your boat with solar panels instead.






The CNC router in question is the popular Sienci, and the 3D-printed brackets for the photodiode and LED are somewhat specific for that machine. But [tmbarbour] has included STL files in his exhaustively detailed write-up, so modifying them to fit another machine should be easy. The sensor hangs down just far enough to watch a reflector on one of the flats of the collet nut; we’d worry about the reflector surviving tool changes, but it’s just a piece of shiny tape that’s easily replaced. The sensor feeds into a DIO pin on a Nano, and a small OLED display shows a digital readout along with an analog gauge. The display update speed is decent — not too laggy. Impressive build overall, and we like the idea of using a piece of PLA filament as a rivet to hold the diodes into the sensor arm.